The ET Mod installation

[kitemanwest aussie]

then lock the thread and all of us can go back to neighbours instead of this soapy

[AnOldFart]

No doubt your confidence will re-assure some. The fact you appear to have closed your mind to the risk of failure only serves to concern me more.
Unfortunately at least two home modifiers have now experienced CELs caused by temperature readings that were out of range according to the ECU. Whether they were installation errors or something else I don't know and we'll probably never know. But sadly we're not yet at the foolproof point.
And whether people manage to find their way through the whole thread to your modification of the original concept and whether they choose your method, we won't know either. It's not like they can ring you to complain if there was to be a problem. And unless multiple people with different engines etc all try your way and test it out in a range of conditions and have no issues I'll remain as tentative about it as I have been about the rest of it.
I remain of the view that everyone is perfectly entitled to modify their own vehicles and experiment and what have you but also of the view that it starts getting risky when people represent the solution as a perfected solution without sufficient testing/evidence/experience and others come along and take threads like these as gospel without a full appreciation of all of the issues.
That's the thing about forums. No one can be bothered reading the whole thing. They'll come in, read a page or two, take the bit they want and run off and do it and in some cases not even return to the forum again.
It's all very well to assume everyone is a genius and a craftsman when they work on their vehicles and analyse threads like this one, but if that was so would we have threads about people putting petrol in a diesel ute, about triggering air bag lights because they worked on wiring with the battery connected, about driving for miles on tar in 4wd and experiencing massive wind-up?

Indeed, I am very confident CD, of the success of this updated version of the ET Mod, because it is only using the manufacturer's own, normal engineered design performance parameters for the vehicle, by simply simulating the outside ambient air temperature conditions that would continually prevail if the vehicle was being driven in the far Northern Lattitudes of the Northern hemisphere, and I'm unaware of any, EGR/intake manifold carboning problems at all, being experienced by owners over there, in fact, quite the exact opposite, going by the comments that I have seen made by Northern European based owners, and I'm quite comfortable that any .."risk of failure".. that you make mention of, only, has relevance to an 'incorrect implementation' of the Mod, not, the actual Mod design itself.

I acknowledge the validity of your comment CD, about NT Forum members who are not themselves 'familiar' with electronics, maybe making errors, or possibly, even worse, in their attempts to implement this ET Mod, which is exactly, the ..precise reason.. why I recently chose, to try to steer anyone not confident in their own abilities to safely / successfully complete this work, in the direction of Tony, by suggesting that they ask him / pay him, for a pre-manufactured version of it, however, my suggestion to that effect, was quickly received like a ..crap.. sandwich, by someone else on this Forum who very obviously, likes to think of themselves as the self appointed, (??) official mouthpiece for all comments relating to Tony. Anyway, perhaps it's better for all concerned here, if I now simply let that sleeping dog lie.

[viking shippy]

I get it ..you all have relevant and credible points of view..and you don't agree....so let it go...unless you fellas ...come up with something new to contribute in the et mods development..... why keep banging on..over and over again about the same old points of view...

[NowForThe5th]

No, I don't think you get it at all VS. By and large this thread (which has, in my opinion, enormous potential to run off the rails) has been conducted in an adult fashion and we now have all three proponents of the alternative systems discussing the relative merits, and shortcomings of each. Disagreement is a likely thing along the way of development, but as long as this is done in an acceptable fashion then I don't see a problem.

We have progressed, in only five pages, from antagonistic and defensive to open discussion and members have some alternatives to choose from, all of which are better than the previous alternative of a blanking plate. We now have two alternatives which are based on essentially static values with a third providing a more dynamic fix. Certainly we know that Koshari's value is too high - that's not to say that it doesn't work. It does and it's simple and cheap, but in certain conditions it could result in a "too cold" reading. Against this we have Tony's mod which is more costly but tested, better engineered and comes with support. Much better for those who want something closer to plug'n'play and the security of backup. AOF's solution (once I'd discounted all the unnecessary words, for this man has an even greater capacity for verbosity than I do ) shows good potential in that it can't (?) return out of range readings but needs some knowledge and skill to implement without risk and comes with no support. Short the wires and you could blow up the ECU. Nevertheless, personally, I like the concept and I'd like to see some testing of it done to verify that the values are correct. A bypass switch would be nice too, but even I can see that that isn't quite so easy.

As long as this kind of discussion continues then one would hope that an even better solution will emerge that will overcome the problems. Or maybe a fourth will enter with a better way, without over-engineering the solution, of course.

[viking shippy]

It's already over engineered lol..
See I don't think you get it either 5th on May levels but that's just my opinion...and I accept your opinion.. I just cannot see why you guys are still debating...unless something new comes up....past old farts version...
It's a simple mod.... it works ....and has not as yet caused any problems ...
as far as I can see in any configuration.
but..it still causes so much debate and discussion
maybe... it's cause we are all different... the fact that we are all different.. And perceive things so differently...Might just be the debate your debating
and some have better things to do than write ...war and peace novels here...

[NowForThe5th]

The levels of what in May?

Actually the mod, in various forms, has caused some problems, not all of which have been documented in this forum. They're not insurmountable though and that's why I was encouraging further discussion on this. Essentially it works because it's simple. The concept is no different to a chip - feed the computer the data it needs to produce the result you want. The alternative is to rewrite the programming (ala MRT) but this is expensive and I believe they won't alter the EGR programming for emissions control reasons.

[viking shippy]

Many levels and not just in May lol...
What problems? that needs to be documented here..I thinks..

[NowForThe5th]

I'm sure they will be, in the fullness of time. Meanwhile, let's keep this on topic.

[koshari]

I still think the "Original" wright mod is as good as the AOF double resistor mod if you want to go down the 2 wire mod path.
I have seen no evidence that the ECU needs to see a dynamic signal coming back from the MAF. After all a stable temperature reading is a valid input.

[RHKTriton]

What a load of fooffing and carry on.

You guys are losing the spirit of this forum - where a bunch of enthusiast triton owners can come and share their developments (inc use and mods). Instead I'm getting the image of schoolgirl bitch fighting - grow up and don't degrade the site.

That's my soapbox for this thread.

And - the resistor mod is working perfectly - 08 ml.

[AnOldFart]

I still think the "Original" wright mod is as good as the AOF double resistor mod if you want to go down the wire mod path. I have seen no evidence that the ECU needs to see a dynamic signal coming back from the MAF. After all a stable temperature reading is a valid input.

I agree with you 'koshari'. The only reason I actually decided to opt for the double resistor approach was so that the Mod would provide at least some (constrained) level of dynamic AT1 resistance range feedback to the ECU, and that was only, to err on the 'safe side' of things because I am not personally privy to the Mitsui AT1/ECU coding to know for sure, if there is anything in the algorithm that will 'detect' a 'continuous, fixed' AT1 resistance reading, and hence declare that 'state' to be classed as a fault condition. If in fact, the ECU's coding doesn't actually care, about a continuous, fixed AT1 resistance, then the simplest approach of all, to keeping the EGR valve closed would be to simply use a single 6.8K resistor (to mimic 0C degrees ambient air temperature) wired directly in place of, the AT1 Thermistor ie, simply open circuit (cut) both the Y-L and B-L wires going to pins 1 and 2 of the MAF connector and solder the 6.8K resistor directly across the ends of those two wires. ( on the side of the cut closest to the ECU obviously ) I think, that's what you mean, when you are referring to the "original Wright Mod" and I agree, under those defined set of circumstances, the single 6.8K resistor (but wired in parallel, not series) is all that is required to close, and keep closed, the EGR valve.

[RobM]

Will providing the ECU with an incorrect air temp cause it to alter fuel/air mixture? e.g. injector timing?

[PhilW]

Will providing the ECU with an incorrect air temp cause it to alter fuel/air mixture? e.g. injector timing?

First off..Welcome to the site RobM.

Not sure about the above, but take it from me.....it sure tamed my 2.5MN motor.
Runs a lot smoother and it seems to have improved the diesel consumption. Not that it was an issue in the past.

[Belbrook]

Will providing the ECU with an incorrect air temp cause it to alter fuel/air mixture? e.g. injector timing?

I don't know the answer to your question but it has given me almost 10% better fuel economy.

[Tony]

Has no effect on air fuel or timing, cold start, nor warm up. The coolant temp, fuel temp and air temp at the throttle body looks after this. Some time back, I was working with coolant temp 2 (reason with held ) and it certainly did mess with the injection.

[the d]

Does any one know if this mod works with NS pajero 3.2?

[kitemanwest aussie]

So is it reasonable to assume it actually has NO effect on fuel consumption, and therefore any perceived or real improvements to fuel efficiency must be from another reason?

[viking shippy]

The fuel savings are from in my opinion that the motor is now breathing Better ...than with just an egr block on its own...with the air flow butterfly valve opening and closing on light throttle when the egr operates" but blocked" making an engine braking jerky movement on deceleration and light throttle..effectively and randomly blocking airflow...
It's always been a half fix...
The et mod on the other hand turns the egr system off...entirely.
Now with this new mod it's shut the egr and opened the air flow butterfly full time so it's more drivable and with a smooth throttle response and deceleration...
If you don't have an egr blanking plate in I don't think installing a et mod will improve your fuel economy but it will get worse if you leave it out with carbon buildup..
As with mine as I've had the egr block only In for 50k I noticed a.8 ltr per 100k improvement as others have in my position...with the et Mod....roughly 10% saving

[NowForThe5th]

Does any one know if this mod works with NS pajero 3.2?

I have Tony's module on my NW and it works a treat. NS is the same.

Has no effect on air fuel or timing, cold start, nor warm up. The coolant temp, fuel temp and air temp at the throttle body looks after this. Some time back, I was working with coolant temp 2 (reason with held ) and it certainly did mess with the injection.

Acknowledge what you're saying but it seems to me that more than half those who do a mod like this report better fuel consumption, albeit by a small increment, but measurable. Reduced lag and smoother running are the other two things generally commented on. Certainly I found the same so it must have something to do with what Shippy mentions - throttle plate always open means no restriction which leads to more efficient combustion and the benefits reported.

[the d]

Thanks 5th

[RHKTriton]

Its all about keeping the throttle flap wide open while you are driving.

Up to around 80kph the throttle is constantly hunting around open and largely restricting airflow.

I have found a noticeable improvement with the motor when the flap is disabled during this activity.

The problem to date has been that once you disable the flap, it stays disabled until you restart the motor.

Hence ECU may bring up a light and a bit of motor run on occurs on shutdown.

The resistor mod provides the benefits of a closed egr with the air intake working at max efficiency. Benefits with minimum intrusion.

The mod has helped offset the effect of going to larger tyres recently.

[chick_magnet_0001]

Fitted my module up that tony supplied and the comparison is all positive so far. Engine coolant temps sit 4-8deg lower in the 100-110 GPS speed range and around 80ks further out of the tank for the same drive(upper coomera to Roma that I've driven 10-12 times)..

[trouble]

Mmm if chicky says it good then best I look at getting it and applying said module??
Best I read a bit more about it

[viking shippy]

Just do it trouble.....it should keep you out of trouble..for 5mins....whilst installing it lol..

[OzziMonty]

Hmm,

Just a newbie trying to understand all this and while these posts make perfect sense individually, together they seem to contradict and therefore perhaps offer the real answer.

RobM asked:

Will providing the ECU with an incorrect air temp cause it to alter fuel/air mixture? e.g. injector timing?

and Tony replied:

Has no effect on air fuel or timing, cold start, nor warm up. The coolant temp, fuel temp and air temp at the throttle body looks after this.

But then chick_magnet said:

Fitted my module up that tony supplied and the comparison is all positive so far. Engine coolant temps sit 4-8deg lower in the 100-110 GPS speed range and around 80ks further out of the tank for the same drive(upper coomera to Roma that I've driven 10-12 times)..

So, does that mean because (as a result of the mod) the engine coolant temps "sit 4-8deg lower" and the coolant temp is one of the things that influence the air/fuel mix and timing then the answer to RobM's question could be yes (or in the very least, kind of). Could this explain the slightly increased fuel economy that is being reported?