The ET Mod installation

[motoz]

FWIW I bought Tonys version.

Installed it as per instructions. Removed previously installed blank and EGR Has remained 100% closed and the TB 100% open while running.

No butchered looms, no driving back and forth to Jaycar getting more resistors etc etc...

Surely the piece of mind and the fact that this is a set and forget option is worth $50 ???

[har05l]

FWIW I bought Tonys version.

Installed it as per instructions. Removed previously installed blank and EGR Has remained 100% closed and the TB 100% open while running.

No butchered looms, no driving back and forth to Jaycar getting more resistors etc etc...

Surely the piece of mind and the fact that this is a set and forget option is worth $50 ???

Not to mention the support you also receive if there are problems, but not likely

I doubt jaycar would assist

[Homer]

FWIW I bought Tonys version.

Installed it as per instructions. Removed previously installed blank and EGR Has remained 100% closed and the TB 100% open while running.

No butchered looms, no driving back and forth to Jaycar getting more resistors etc etc...

Surely the piece of mind and the fact that this is a set and forget option is worth $50 ???

This has always been my impression too. Who wants to spend hours and fiddle around trying to reinvent the wheel to save $40? And risk damaging something

[NowForThe5th]

Agree. Just look at what's happening over on the Pajero site. Challenger boys have been playing around with it for ages trying to make it work and it doesn't, even after they got all the information from here. Meh! Pay the $50 and be done with it, I reckon.

[trouble]

[Cowboy Dave]

Trouble I hope you realise all of these emojis, which I assume are from tapatalk, aren't working for the rest of us.

[trouble]

Oh really they look great from where I'm looking!

[Naff]

trouble

[skilbys]

Just installed the single inline 6K8 resistor on my Mn 2.5, a relatively simple procedure following Alexs pictures and AOF'S Instructions. Seems to be running smoother and no surging/pulsing under load. I also think that all the black smoke from the chip has gone too, but I will be keeping an eye on this!
Thanks for all the info and discussion!

[mitzikatzi]

This was on FB, Can anybody explain if the logic is sound?

Yep. Im a sparky. Thought it really dumb having a resistor in series with a sensor which adds resistance

So the 1st mod was having the resistor in series with the sensor.
This is wrong because you are adding both resistance together.
Example at 10 degrees the resistance of the sensor is around 4000 then plus the resistor you used " in this instance 4700" So the cars reading 8700 ohms so around -5 degrees

2nd mod with both resistor has the same issue. But is not as bad. One is in series with the sensor and both are in parallel with the 2nd resistor.
In doing this the resistance doesn't increase as much

Same example using the 12000 ohms which was stated somewhere.

12000 ohms plus 5000omhs for 10 degrees in parallel with 12000 = 7000 ohms. Reading 0 degrees

My idea the resistor isn't in series with the sensor. When bypass is on only the resistor is in the circuit. so it reads a constant 4700 ohms.
And using a house switch i can return it back to original. As it has a common and 2 differ switch contacts. So the cars reading a constant 5 degress

Hope that helps

[Homer]

looks like it could be a bit of a [censored] up

[Greedy]

^^ Trust you to notice.

[Tony]

Yes It works(done a few pajero's this way), just most don't like fooling with both wires from AIT to ECU and there is potential of ECU damage if done wrong. Running is series is OK if set in range. We've seen it working fine low as -9c with no issues.

No brainer this, a static value is by far the most desirable outcome. However, simplicity is also a very good outcome when works as should.

[OffRoadDave]

Ignoring the electrician logic of using switch mechs for every job you can, in a nutshell he is disconnecting the sensor and connecting a resistor of a fixed value in it's place, the only question is whether the resistance chosen is high enough to keep the EGR closed.

In my opinion the theory is no better or worse than the single resistor mod, or the two resistor mod, they are all just a fudge of temp sensor no.1.

[ag9111]

Yes it does make sense. This is the same as cutting both wires and taking the air temp sensor completely out of circuit.
Using a domestic mechanism is a bit rough and ready though. You could do better than that.
I am not sure on the replacement resistance values as I have not been following any of the threads

[hvac guy]

Them switch mechs dont like low voltages and will throw out the resistance value. Its just another way to over engineer something. Sometimes its better too keep it simple in terms of reliability.

[BusterMan2388]

Just a few snaps of the "Tony mod" which I believe is a more simplified version of this.

[BusterMan2388]

And what the scanner was telling me after the mod was completed. The EGR and throttle values did not change from that in any conditions I put the car through.

[RHKTriton]

Regardless of how you want to do your setup,I'd be concerned about causing momentary breaks in the circuit (esp if the engine is running). The switching action is the time where the ecu will generate an alarm or could get damaged.

Its electronically a better design to have the resistance permanently connected across the ecu input and simply short out a portion (is returning to only the temp sensor) by shorting out the added resistor.

Another point is to keep any "antennas" as short as possible. You want to resist running long lengths of cable attached to sensor cabling as you can cause electrical interference to get to the ecu. Ideally keep the switch close to the added resistor.

I personally go the KISS principle. Just buried the resistor in the loom and forget about it.

[hvac guy]

Man u have fix that problem

[RHKTriton]

Yes HVAC, won't be long before there's no drive between the hub and pulley. Hopefully the new unit arrives this week.

Luckily ( or Murphy's will) the belts are in good nick and pulling evenly on the pulley. There's about 4mm clearance between the reduced bolt heads holding the retainer plate I made up and the fan blades. Only getting very light rubbing against the engine.

[Cowboy Dave]

I think that bloke with the crap drawing skills was also saying he installed his in the cabin down near the ecu which I'm guessing makes it a bit easier to tuck up out of the way. At least his spelling appears to have improved in that post, he did a few posts in that thread that were just awful. It seems pretty clear he read up about the mod here first given the references to resistor values but he didn't seem to want to give that up in the discussion that was going on.

[ag9111]

I think that bloke with the crap drawing skills was also saying he installed his in the cabin down near the ecu which I'm guessing makes it a bit easier to tuck up out of the way. At least his spelling appears to have improved in that post, he did a few posts in that thread that were just awful. It seems pretty clear he read up about the mod here first given the references to resistor values but he didn't seem to want to give that up in the discussion that was going on.

Inside the cabin or not, I still would not go with the switch mechanism he is referring to. The contact are made of copper and will tarnish, fine on 240V but will seriously degrade the 5V signal that the ECU is looking for. Look for a switch with silver flashed contacts that are designed for electronics

[Cowboy Dave]

Yeah I wasn't saying I'd do it or it was a good idea.

[ag9111]

Wasn't suggesting that Dave. Just putting it out there for everybody else