The ET Mod installation

[jrs184]

Done my catch can, 'fully stealth' in red 300psi MP hose, nice long run with wide curves to LH side of engine next to fuel pump where there is less heat and plenty of room. Simple steel bracket from existing threaded bracket on firewall to existing threaded fuel pump bracket, almost made to be there for the purpose. Finished the switched ET mod thanks to advice and support from Tony and look forward to monitoring results with the Turbogauge IV once I get it fully operational. Thanks also to this site for all the great discussion and those who have travelled the path before and made available the results of their experience to others. Regards John

[AnOldFart]

My 2 cents worth.... Although the 'Facebook' switch circuit as drawn above would work, I --also-- would --NOT-- recommend it, because of reasons already mentioned above by ag9111 and RHKTriton, ie, an appreciable risk of damaging / killing your vehicle's ECU with a switching 'spike' whilst engine's running, additional long unterminated wiring runs acting as aerials and picking up electronic noise / interference and feeding it back into the ECU, and almost certain future switch 'contact resistance' problems caused by use of 'household' 240V type switch.... My own advice is, either permanently solder in your fixed resistor mod, or, use Tony's 'plug & play' removable version, but, -avoid- adding 'extra lengths' of additional wiring, and -avoid- the use of 'switches' unless, they are simply wired to short across, ie, bypass the resistor .....

[Bormo23]

I saw lower EGT's. About 80 degrees at cruise up the freeway. Now sits between 350 and 450 depending on the gradient

When you seen the drop in temp. Where do you have your egt sensor on the exhaust? Iv been told from a mechanic that alot of heat is dispersed through the turbo and that i should drill and tap in the manifold before the turbo as to get a better reading!

[biggibbo]

I saw lower EGT's. About 80 degrees at cruise up the freeway. Now sits between 350 and 450 depending on the gradient

When you seen the drop in temp. Where do you have your egt sensor on the exhaust? Iv been told from a mechanic that alot of heat is dispersed through the turbo and that i should drill and tap in the manifold before the turbo as to get a better reading!

About an inch and a half behind the flange on the dump pipe

[jrs184]

people are speaking of the new range of diesels, apart from the Triton MN that don't have one, but from mechanics I have spoken to replacement cost for DPF's are up to $7000 and that is considered a consumable item. Subaru fits in this category and they are not covered under driveline warranties. Have a look at low km Diesel prices for Subaru and see how they have dropped. Glad Mitsu didn't go down the DPF route...yet.

[Cowboy Dave]

They did with the Pajeros - which is why those owners are now buying DPF delete kits.

[tritonliz]

I believe it tricks the ecu with the air box temp sensor that it is actually low temperature and the EGR never functions.

What advice? Buy an adapter loom with the same resistor in it instead of paying 45c ?

How much do you recommend?

There is nothing rough about it. Are you an electrical engineer?

I suppose I can just step down in resistance until the EGR becomes active again. I thought the idea was to keep it shut? The current value does the job.

Look I've had just about enough of this.

The suggestion that the commercial version of this is the same resistor is just bullshit. Not true. 100% false. You should withdraw that immediately.

Secondly, the thread title is equally misleading. Full test? Right. You mean your engine didn't blow up. Since I've mentioned the title since when is that how you spell installation?

How much do I recommend? Not my role to tell you how to do it properly. Or reveal the results of someone else's proper testing.

As to roughness - I'd be that rough on a speaker connection maybe but on an important engine sensor connection subject to constant heat and vibration? One layer of heat shrink may turn out to be enough. Who knows? If you'd actually read all of Koshari's posts on it, including the recent discussions you would have seen that he re-inforced his setup better than that. I'm not going to describe how because I actually think it is very important that you go back and read the whole thing. Which you obviously didn't. The commercial version is also reinforced with more than a single layer of heat shrink but again it's not my role to spell it out.

The idea is to keep it shut and this will do it (on an ML) but I would have thought that if you were going to feed false values to an important sensor in a complicated machine your goal might be to feed it the least false value that will achieve that goal.

Now I mentioned above that it was not my role to fix your work, and that's true.

What I do think is my role though is to try and protect people on the forum generally from misinformation and/or mods that might have issues with them or whatever. So where mods are illegal for example you'll often see some comments added about that.

The little caveat:

Carry out at your own risk.

Sharing is caring.

just doesn't quite do it for me I'm afraid.

If you'd read all of the discussion after Koshari's original posts you'd have seen it had already been said that a lower value resistor would do the job. You'd also have seen what Koshari did with his to make it a bit stronger. You might even have seen that there is a better spot (imho) back towards the back of the airbox to tuck things away. And you might also understand that it's possible to design one of these mods so that you can switch it on and off - say for dealer services or diagnostic purposes.

So clearly I've failed on this occasion because all of that discussion was to prevent someone doing what you've done - just whack it in without even understanding to any real extent how it works. You've said what you believe it does (and you're probably right) but to me that means you didn't 'know' for certain what it does but you went ahead and took the risk anyway.

And then to compound things, even after koshari backed away from it a bit and said look I'm not saying everyone should go out and do it just because I did it and it worked for me, you've basically posted up a whole thread suggesting that everyone should go ahead and do it because you did it.

Now obviously everyone can take their own views on this stuff and everyone will. I've said before I am a strong believer in the product out there which is doing this job and I can see how some might think I'm hopelessly conflicted and that this is me trying (again) to protect Tony's sales. But I'll say yet again that it's not about that at all - although if people who don't know one way or the other are going to start spreading bullshit about it then I will be all over that like I would any other rank dishonesty. Nevertheless it's one of the difficult tasks which befall forum moderators that they have to try and be fair and balanced and I'd like to think I'm about as fair as they come. God knows I try.

In this case I'm calling it like I see it. You've copied someone else's idea, not executed it as well as the original, sledged another product you know nothing about and basically misled people about it, and you've then gone and advertised the whole thing for the rest of the world to copy. That's about as far away from ideal as I'm prepared to tolerate frankly.

I haven't taken the step of locking the thread or removing it at this stage but if it degenerates any further then that is what will happen. If it has to stay up I really think you need to go back and whack some bigger disclaimers in because history suggests that no one is going to get all the way down to this post and bother to read it and understand it. And you need to go back and correct your false statement that I've mentioned about 3 times now.

I know this is a few months old but what a great response and I can't wait to get Tony's Mod when he is down Sydney way next.

[explorer.dave]

They did with the Pajeros - which is why those owners are now buying DPF delete kits.

Okay, l'm gunna sound like a nob and prob generate a few but what exactly is a DPF? and yes, l did try the search.

Dave

[Cowboy Dave]

Diesel Particulate Filter. They sit in your exhaust and catch a lot of the gunk. Then in theory periodically they get made to be really hot to burn off the gunk only in practice they eventually gunk up and fail and can be very expensive to replace.

[NowForThe5th]

Diesel Particulate Filter. Installed on exhaust. Only on NS Pajero and was a nightmare. Dropped from NT on.

[variflex]

There places around that will do an exchange recond on the DPF, I know they do it for trucks and heavy machinery, not sure if they offer the same service for vehicles but wouldnt imagine it would be too far away

[JustO]

What to do? I installed the easy ET mod yesterday(inline resistor) but decided to go see my local misty dealer this afternoon about claiming warranty on the carbon build up. I booked it in for Friday and they said they will run diagnostics etc. I'm thinking they might see the TPS readings and that the EGR isn't opening?!

Now should I remove the resistor or leave it in and take a chance? I'm thinking remove it seeing as though I have ordered Tonys mod :/

[azza3400]

remove for sure. not worth the risk

[Cowboy Dave]

You can easily remove it and just connect the two bullets together and tape it up again. Or if you grab that white wire that you cut and join the ends together it will bypass the mod.

[koshari]

remove for sure. not worth the risk

What would the risk be exactly?

[cookie1]

What to do? I installed the easy ET mod yesterday(inline resistor) but decided to go see my local misty dealer this afternoon about claiming warranty on the carbon build up. I booked it in for Friday and they said they will run diagnostics etc. I'm thinking they might see the TPS readings and that the EGR isn't opening?!

Now should I remove the resistor or leave it in and take a chance? I'm thinking remove it seeing as though I have ordered Tonys mod :/

I'm curious about claiming carbon buildup on warranty, how many k's it got on the clock and any other signs or symtoms that help make a claim like that? Mine has 43000 on the clock and would like to make sure its clean before doing the SPV mod.

cheers

[Shaunos83]

I've been reading up on the egr blanking plate mods etc and have stumbled across this forum. Seems like a lot of people are recommending Tonys mod, but I can't seem to find where to purchase this mod from? Can someone post a link? Thanks

[snowman]

I've been reading up on the egr blanking plate mods etc and have stumbled across this forum. Seems like a lot of people are recommending Tonys mod, but I can't seem to find where to purchase this mod from? Can someone post a link? Thanks

Subject: Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

from the egr thread.

Tony here...

Please be patient as I will eventually find you all, I have had major server issues (Hence no email reply), PM box overfull, other commitments etc. I'm working through it quickly as possible. Have had to take a day off work as so thick and call in a favor as well.
Sorry for the frustration.

PM's are not a great channel for contact as much harder to track and have limitations.

Server issues now resolved, any who need my urgent attention... tony@spvindustries.com

Regards,
Tony

[Shaunos83]

Thanks snowman! I've sent Tony an email

[Bobojo]

I'm about to do the single resistor mod on the mn.. 6k8 across pin 1 and 2.. Yl and bl wires leaving it a fixed 6k8 resistance .. As I don't have a scan gauge it's hard to see if it is working correctly.. Is this the correct resistance for the mn ?

[toby_w88]

I ended up doing the 2 resistor mod a few weeks ago, all good so far. I went about mine a bit differently and added a 3 pin plug inline (2 pins blue 1 yellow) and put the resistors inside a little waterproof box (as per photo). I figured this way they are protected better. All connections on the plug crimped and soldered and resistors soldered with several layers of heatshrink for protection. If I ever want to remove it I can just unplug the box and fit a plug bridging the two blue wires and it is back to stock. Box sits next to brake booster in empty space

[BillMcQuade]

I'm about to do the single resistor mod on the mn.. 6k8 across pin 1 and 2.. Yl and bl wires leaving it a fixed 6k8 resistance .. As I don't have a scan gauge it's hard to see if it is working correctly.. Is this the correct resistance for the mn ?

Seriously? Have you read this thread?

You are about to fit a resistor of randomly selected value, and don't have the equipment to test your work.

I have personally seen an ECU fried from such random tinkering, and it cost the bloke over $2k for a new one.

For the price of a big night out on the turps, you can have a tested solution with warranty backup.

[TUF909]

Where are you getting warranty back up from?

[BillMcQuade]

Where are you getting warranty back up from?

If you buy a plug in solution from a vendor, and it doesn't work, then you can claim under warranty for a replacement or repair.

[mtim87]

hey crew!! is there a link to buy tonys resistor mod?? so much reading on here. I cant find it