Fitting Instructions

[Enid_Triton]

Thank goodness I had these instructions because i would have been lost without them.
OCAM 4x4 Rear Bar for Triton 09 to 15.
Installation Steps:
1. Remove the existing FRONT BUMPER
2. reference parts list and installation drawings, check the accessories are complete. But no proper drawing, almost a Blank page with numbers and arrows pointing to nothing, there was no drawing.
Washer list:
Springs Washer- Amount :12
Increase the Flat washer- Amount: 24 ( whatever that is) but it appears 4 times in the pars list.
Crazy stuff, why don't they get an English speaking person to write this stuff? Thank goodness they gave me 24 of the Increase The Flat washers though.

Anyway my review of their Tow bar- rear bumper for the Triton goes like this.
Unless you are only going to tow a very small and light Aluminum trailer to move cotton wool or fairy floss do not buy it.
It is a rear Bumper bar & Tow bar combined &It is incredibly light & flimsy, it has brake lights, indicators and number plate light. The metal used is 4mm mild steel bent to a 90 degree angle to give it strength. It is only spot welded in areas where is should be continuous. Honestly my A-Mart Bed frame is made out of the exact same metal & it has bent.
The original Triton standard old GLX tow bar without tongue and ball weighs quite a bit more & the metal used in it is more than twice the thickness than this OCAM horror.
Look, it's so light that I lifted it & fitted it myself laying on my back in a carport holding it with one arm and doing up the nuts with the other hand.
It looks good fitted but Stay away
I guarantee that it will bend and flex with only a small payload weight on it.
How it ADR approval is beyond me.

[Joel]

Nothing worse than wasting money on cheap crap then having to spend again on something better. What did it set you back$?

[Enid_Triton]

I paid $584.00 they are on special at the moment, supposedly they are usually $649.00
The only reason I bought it was because the older version they had on display either had thicker paint or they used steel about 2mm thicker, but it looked a lot stronger.
The paint on the display bar was that powder coated textured wrinkle paint which probably just made it look like bigger steel was used. The new version that I have is just painted in one thin coat of chassis black.

When you get it, it's wrapped up with enough padding & cardboard to withstand a nuclear holocaust, and you cant really tell until you unwrap it that the metal thickness is thin crap.

The Bumper bar part is OK & better than those flimsy rear step-up things that the factory fitted to the GLX-R models, but the tow bar mounting steel they have used is a joke & absolutely pathetic.
I am going to refit the original Tow bar & then make up some brackets & weld the bumper bar part (only) from the new one onto it.
EDIT: The mounting bracket bolt holes on the Tow bar are so ridiculously oversized that unless you use the big flat steel washers the bolt heads go straight through the bracket holes.

[WUNSIE]

I would be returning it for a refund, if its as bad as you say
Sounds like its from China,

[tmichel]

I have an Ocam roof tray for my MQ and am really happy with the build quality and fit .

[NowForThe5th]

I think what you're missing, Enid, is the benefit of engineering. It isn't necessary to build everything as massive as the MN towbar which is only like that because the chassis is shorter than the body and the towbar unit had to drop a long way to get around the rear step bar.

Clever engineering means that, with the right steels and shapes it is possible to have both strength and light weight. The Triton chassis is a perfect case, or a bullbar from any of the major manufacturers. There is really no need to have a 5 poster these days. Anyway, 4mm wall thickness ain't exactly lightweight. Bear in mind though, that even that ridiculous MN towbar was only bolted to a chassis with wall thickness a fraction of that used in the towbar. Mitsubishi have a habit of over-engineering towbars.

If your rear bar is rated to tow 3.5t then it will do that. The ute has less capacity. I don't think I'd like to have a ball weight of 350kg on an MN. Certainly not offroad.

I guess you're aware that modifying either bar negates their rating and leaves you open in the event of something going wrong?

The holes are oversized so that the bar can fit the full rage of dimensions that can occur in a Triton. We've seen differences of over 10mm which are, apparently, "within manufacturing tolerances".

[Enid_Triton]

Maybe, but we towed a box trailer with half a load of gravel & when it was loaded you could push on either side of the bar & it would move/flex left & right.
Now imagine if I tried to tow my van with it, it is an accident just waiting to happen.

It is supposed to be ADR approved to tow 3Ton but there are no tags displaying this fact. The tow bar brackets are made from 3mm steel for gods sake. Yes, they have angle welded to it but the welds are not continuous & the tow bar bracket holes are so big that it has weak spots everywhere.
This no lie, the mounting bolt heads are 18mm OK, that's a decent size bolt but without the soft Chinese steel flat washers the 18mm bolt heads slip straight through the bracket holes in the tow bar, they are huge.

Anyway I took it back to OCAM for a refund & then I got an MCC Jack Bar which looks identical but it is made using decent size steel, the Tow bar brackets are 8mm steel with continuous welded angle for added strength, it's a quality super strong tow bar.And it has an ADR plate. Plus the bolt holes are only elongated just a little, not stupid oversized caverns.
I could lift the OCAM one laying on my back under the Triton with one arm, and that is how I fitted it.
But this MCC Jack bar had to be lifted hydraulically, it weighs more than double the OCAM version. I will have no issues towing anything with this tow bar.
You can fit cheap and nasty lite weight stuff to you vehicle if you like, that's completely up to you, but I won't.

[NowForThe5th]

Fair enough. I was thinking that it was more like the MCC made rear bar that I had on the ML. It looked lightweight and felt lightweight compared to the ARB one, but it took some massive hits and just bounced back for more. The OCAM one sounds like it may be in a different category altogether.