Installing new speakers

[al coholic]

Well I think the next time he drowns it (let's face it, it's a matter of when.....not if ) those MDF spacers should swell up nicely causing a nice water tight seal for the speakers

Only one way to prove this theory however.........

[borngeek]

He should of installed them in the roof. Only way they will stay dry....

[4wd26]

I noticed the water drops on the door- wondered if he had tried it out already?

[har05l]

That's the special effects paintwork I ordered 26

While the trims were off it gave me a chance to also clean out the shite inside the doors surprising how much mud/sand was trapped in there

[bushy91]

Hey guys ,
I want to add a sub and amp to mine which has standard speakers , and cd unit , so was gonna run wire to
The area behind my back seat and make up a box for it . Is it possible to add those wires to the back of
The original cd player unit ? I have been trying to find pics everywhere but nothing and I don't want to pull it all apart and can't do it .
Thanks much appriciated .

[NowForThe5th]

Hey guys ,
I want to add a sub and amp to mine which has standard speakers , and cd unit , so was gonna run wire to
The area behind my back seat and make up a box for it . Is it possible to add those wires to the back of
The original cd player unit ? I have been trying to find pics everywhere but nothing and I don't want to pull it all apart and can't do it .
Thanks much appriciated .

Does the standard unit have a sub out? No. You'll need to split your signal first. Talk to a car radio place about how to do that with the equipment you intend to use.

[Kegsy]

Best way is to use an amp with line inputs, easy as. However amp choice will be seriously limited.

Otherwise use a line converter to get rca outputs. The best line converter happens also to be one of the cheapest. .. the ' navone'.

Rockford fosgate also do some badass conveters with epic tunability but they are massive dollars.

Id suggest going to a shop for this, its tricky to tune and gear selection may be quite involved to get the result you want.

[har05l]

So this weekend I decided to complete the speaker install and did the rears.

I couldn't get the same speakers as the front at the discount I did ($46) but found a better pair that were cheaper ($45) so very happy.

So for a little over $90 I have far better sound and the sound is awesome

Rear speakers

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369538654.813513.jpg

And fitted

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369538726.251223.jpg

I'll also note that unlike 5th I didn't need to cut the back of the door trim like he did, not sure why but the speakers fit perfectly

[NowForThe5th]

I'll also note that unlike 5th I didn't need to cut the back of the door trim like he did, not sure why but the speakers fit perfectly

Well done, Ken. The problem was the shape at the back of the speaker - frame supports and the size of the magnet meant it wouldn't fit through the hole. 6" speakers fit perfectly and obviously the Kenwoods do too.

[RHKTriton]

Interesting how stuff has changed, years ago we looked for after market units with the biggest magnets and now with the new magnetic materials they are much more compact and have better specs.

[bushy91]

Ok , I have v
Everything run and connected just about. I bought the line out converter , but I have no clue which wires in the back of the stock unit to join them to ? The line out has a white , white black , grey , grey black. Now I know which one is positive and negative for the front speakers but where at the back of the head unit must I connect them to because there all differant colours to them ?? Can't find any pics on the internet or proper advice that can help me . There's like 15 differant colour wires coming out the back of this head unit.
Thanks very much guys

[Kegsy]

Easiest way is to get your battery drills battery and multi-meter or test light.

Hopefully there is two plugs on the back of the unit? If there is, go to the biggest one. Forget the little one for now, hopefully that should be steering wheel controls etc.

Find your constant 12V, ACC 12V, Earth, Illumination with the multimeter or test light.

Hopefully this leaves you with 8 wires on the big plug. If more, look for the 8 that look to be "together" or in pairs.

Disconnect the Neg battery terminal from the battery under the bonnet.

Remove the door trims so you can see the cone of the speaker move, or if you can clearly see in through the grille this is fine. But you need to be able to see very clearly.

Use two pieces of scrap wire to push into one set (remember how I was saying pairs of wires left over after testing and elimination) of the remaining wire pins on the wiring harness. If you have them, some pin connectors soldered onto the scrap wire will make life easier for pushing into the plug.

Use the battery drill battery and hold one wire to the - terminal and quickly touch the other wire to the positive. If you here a pop sound you have identified one speakers wire set. Do this a few times to locate which actual speaker is making the noise.

Once you have the speaker located, look in through the grille (or if you have removed the trim this is easy) whilst holding the wires constant onto the drill battery.

If the cone moves outward and stays this way; the wire on the + terminal of the battery is the + speaker input wire. If The cone moves inward, then the wire on the battery + terminal is actually the - speaker wire.


Now the line-out only needs left and right input. It doesn't need all four speakers. So you only need to find a left and right speaker. But ensure they are of the same set, IE: front or back.

I suggest to use the front channel if you fade your music to the front, if you fade to the rear, use the rear. This just provides a bit of security when you adjust your gains.



Of course someone will probably just post a diagram and all this can be avoided

[ag9111]

Well done Kegsy but I suggest a D or C cell battery, as the current supplied by 12, 16, 18 volt drill battery can fry the speaker coils

[Kegsy]

Never had a problem all the times I've done it (up to 18V), but I suppose some of the new cordless stuff is getting a bit up there in juice...

Go with what Garth has said for safety.

[headake]

are the rear speakers mounted different to the front factory ones? (as in not twist in)

can you just replace them with out spaces (depending on size of speaker magnet)
unscrew factory screw in aftermarket?

[Cowboy Dave]

The rears are mounted the same way from memory. I used MDF spacers on the front from memory. I think on the back I butchered the OEM setup by hacking the speakers out and then used the old plastic spacer to mount the new speakers to. With the effort that took I'd have been better off with spacers there too but I guess I saved some money and another trip to supercheap.

[bushy91]

It ended up being the top 4 right hand corner wires in the big box , and the remote wire is the white one just for any 1 doing the same thing. Sound is great , going to tune the sub tomorrow . Thanks for the help guys , much appreciated. Biggest helpfor me was : wire strippers , internet , and those flexible sparky cables that come from chip board sheets for taping wires 2 and running through tight areas.

[gregsm]

It ended up being the top 4 right hand corner wires in the big box , and the remote wire is the white one just for any 1 doing the same thing. Sound is great , going to tune the sub tomorrow . Thanks for the help guys , much appreciated. Biggest helpfor me was : wire strippers , internet , and those flexible sparky cables that come from chip board sheets for taping wires 2 and running through tight areas.

Hi all, are the front and rear speakers both 6 inch

[Cowboy Dave]

Yeah I think so although from memory I think a 6.5 can be squeezed in there too.

[har05l]

Yeah I think so although from memory I think a 6.5 can be squeezed in there too.

Correct you are CD, I fitted 6 1/2" front and rear

[stackator]

G'day guys,
Just double checking - will aftermarket 6" two way speakers fit both front and rear (without spacers and modifications) to a 2012 MN?

From what I have read it appears to be the case, I just want to confirm and find out if there are any gotchas

Thanks in advance

[Cowboy Dave]

Pretty sure you need spacers to get the depth right. If they're still done the same way you can butcher the original speaker mounts and use them as spacers (which is what I did for the rears). I found the MDF spacers from supercheap or whoever required less effort in the long run.

[NowForThe5th]

6" speakers will fit, but you have to cut the old speakers out. Not too difficult. Mine were 6 1/2" so I had to use spacers instead of the original mounts.

[stackator]

Thanks Cowboy Dave, I will see what spacers are available at SCA.

5th, cut the speakers out instead of unscrewing them from the door? Or cut them out of the mounts so you can reuse the mounts/spacers?

Cheers for your help

[NowForThe5th]

The speakers are bonded into the mounts that fit onto the door. Need to remove mount and speaker from door (twist out) then cut the speakers out. Reuse the mount for your new speakers.