How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter to an MN

How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter to an MN

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:01 pm

Introduction, caveats and thanks

As posted in the ‘what did you do to your Triton today’ thread recently I have installed an RV meter to my Triton which, having been factory fitted with an MMCS unit had no trip computer functions at all. This thread is about how to achieve the same thing.

I’m producing this content for the use of members of this forum. I claim copyright on the content (other than on the material owned by Mitsubishi reproduced below) and I don’t authorise its distribution and use on other forums without express permission.

Also while I have been careful, and this all worked for me without any equipment failures or other casualties you enter into this at your own risk. I’m supplying all the information I relied upon and you can check/verify things for yourself. If you’re not confident with auto-electrics just stop reading now. If you bugger your car trying to do this I take no responsibility for that. Ditto the forum owner etc as per usual.

So formalities aside, I need to give some credit and thanks to Rodeddy and 4wdTrainer (see here: http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=17468&start=25#p454192) for the ideas, inspiration, and in Rod’s case the photos, some of which are reproduced here.

Before following this guide read Rodeddy’s post here http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16825&p=467109&hilit=rodeddy#p467109

I’m trying to achieve that, but I don’t have the wiring and need to install it, hence this guide.

Do you already have the wiring in place?

Before going further, consider this. Unlike my vehicle, yours may already have the plug. If you do have the plug all you need to do is find it, then get an RV meter and hood (part number in the thread linked to above), do Rodeddy’s mods and plug it all in.

The plug you’re looking for is grey in colour. Here are 2 pics of it courtesy of Rodeddy.

Click to view larger picture

Click to view larger picture


It is located above the single DIN pocket and in the vicinity of the double din spot. Here’s a diagram from the manual, highlighted on the relevant item.

Click to view larger picture

It should be near the round metal cross-member that goes along behind the centre console. You’ll need to remove the console anyway – instructions elsewhere on the forum for that.
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:04 pm

No plug? Time to buy supplies

Okay so you don’t have the plug. Here’s what you will need.

An OBD connector from Jaycar – part number PP0720 – currently out of stock on their website but may still be in stores. https://www.jaycar.com/productView.asp?ID=PP0720&CATID=81&form=CAT2

Looks like this:

Click to view larger picture

Some pin header things to substitute for the missing plug. You can buy crimp on ones but I found it way easier to buy these:

Jaycar part number WC6021 http://www.jaycar.com.au/Interconnect/Plugs%2C-Sockets-%26-Adaptors/Other-Connectors/LEAD-JUMPER-SET-PLG---SKT-SKT-SKT-10PCS/p/WC6021

Or get some of these:

Click to view larger picture

This is optional but I used some plugs you can crimp up yourself so that I could disconnect the RV meter from my home made loom later. Something like these:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/Interconnect/Plugs%2C-Sockets-%26-Adaptors/Automotive/Automotive-3-Way-Plug-Socket---250-Series/p/PP2064

If you run a scangauge or ultragauge or anything else OBD related then you will need an OBD Y splitter. You can find these cheaply on ebay. Here is one example:

http://r.ebay.com/TeITXv

Also you will need the following miscellaneous items:

  • An ambient temperature sensor if you don’t already have one – see below for details on where to look
  • Solder, soldering iron and an ability to use the bloody things
  • Assorted crimp connectors and a tool to use them
  • Heatshrink including some really small 1 or 2mm stuff
  • Wire stripper, test light or multimeter
  • Lots of electrical tape and something good for cutting it (a thread ripper (ask your wife) is a bloody handy tool for cutting electrical tape off existing wiring looms)
  • Some lighting, a steady hand and assorted workshop tools and sundries that would take me forever to think about and list
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:06 pm

Reference material

I’ve attached a PDF with the pages you’d need from the workshop manual to nut this out for yourself. You possibly don’t need them if I do this well enough but it’s there for reference purposes if you need it. I needed it despite making several notes and drawing diagrams and stuff for myself before I started.

Combined PDF.pdf


So what we’re trying to do is replicate the connections described in this Mitsubishi block diagram:

Click to view larger picture

In the PDF I’ve put in bookmarks which should show when it opens up. There are wiring diagrams labelled 1-4. The wiring diagrams show the connections to and from the RV meter. The connections occur at numbered connectors. Along the bottom of the diagrams are depictions of the plugs and their configuration. For the most part the images show the view looking from the rear of the plug.

The plug in the back of the RV meter is a 28 pin plug. Fortunately we need 11 pins or less, depending on your vehicle. Looking downwards into the back of the RV meter socket the layout looks like this:

Click to view larger picture

The highlighted ones are the pins we need. You will need to refer back to this and the table below repeatedly when you come to connect up the header wires.
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:07 pm

Connections

So here’s a table of what the connections are supposed to be and where you’re supposed to get them from.

I recommend you ignore the bit about where to get them from as it’s nearly impossible to actually tap into the proper plugs and in some cases the matching terminals just aren’t there anyway. But for thoroughness I’ll include them as I had them on my handwritten list. I’ll leave out the pins we don’t touch but should mention that if you have the right factory headunit you would connect it to pins 5, 6, 19 and 20 (I think) to get radio station and track name display. I didn’t have the right headunit so ignored that.

Click to view larger picture

The asterisk next to ambient temperatures 1&2 is because if you have climate control you don’t need to connect these two. I’ll come back to this later.

In the PDF you will find some location diagrams that tell you where all the plugs are with their numbers. By all means go and look for them but trust me when I say they are painful to get to. Particularly C119, C120 and C33. C33 probably needs the ECU removed on an MN to get access at all.

Which is why we cheat and I am going to explain how that was done here.
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:07 pm

Now, do you have an ambient temperature sensor?

There are 2 locations for these. If you have climate control there is one on the passenger side and if you don’t then there should be one on the driver’s side. Some vehicles appear to just have empty plugs in the relevant location. I’ve included a diagram for each one in the PDF which makes it pretty easy to spot them.

If you have climate control then the Canbus will provide the RV meter with the temperature reading. If you don’t then you need to connect to the sensor on the driver’s side.
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:10 pm

The cheat’s guide to connecting it all up

I’ll deal with each connection in the order that they appear in the table above.

Pin 7 CANBUS (High)

Since connecting to pin 7 on C119 is nigh on impossible, we use the OBD connector for this. In the canbus diagram in the PDF you will see that our pin 7 is on the same circuit as pin 6 of the OBD port/diagnosis connector.

The OBD layout looks like this:

Click to view larger picture

Pin 21 of our RV meter plug goes to pin 14 of the OBD connector. Once we have both connected we have CAN high and CAN low which is all we need from the 16 pins.

Now the workshop manual tells us that CANBUS wiring is all done in twisted pairs for shielding purposes. This is a PITA. I had some figure 8 wire (looks like light duty speaker wire) which was a low amperage Narva roll of wire. I basically peeled the two halves of the figure 8 wire to get two matching lengths of the same gauge wire and then twisted it all up into my own twisted pair.

You’ll need to solder 1 end of your twisted pair onto the pins of the 16 pin OBD connector. This is a pain, I am crap at soldering but I got there in the end. I taped the hell out of it where it exits the rear of the OBD plug to make sure none of it will ever move again.

On the other end I crimped two tiny little header connectors. I kept the receipt somewhere – another Jaycar item. 4wd trainer posted a pic of the ones to get in his brash imports install thread. I took that picture to Jaycar and they found the right packet for me. They really are crap to work with though. If you kept the cable lengths short you could probably get away with connecting these two the same way as I’ll describe for the other connections below.

Pin 9 – Fuel gauge

Connector C30 is the second one from the bottom behind the passenger side kick panel. Pin 11 is the 4th from the top closest to the outside of the vehicle. It should be green and black. I’ve just typed that from memory so check it against the diagrams in the PDF if it doesn’t look right.

The loom from this connector runs down and back along the door sill under the plastic trim. Remove the trim and you’ll see a big bundle with lots of black tape. I cut about a foot of tape off so I had a lot of room to work with. You can trace the wire back along the bundle and tease it out. You need to splice into this wire. I cut it and crimped bullet connectors to each end and in the front end I crimped not just the original wire but my extra wire for the RVM. Putting the bullets back together joins the original wire but now there is a piggyback connection for us to use. Heatshrink over the bullet connectors to ensure they can never come loose or get water inside etc

Don’t tape it back up yet as we come back to this loom later – see below (pin 18).

Pin 10 – Ambient temperature

I looked at this and gave up straight away. I was really not keen on moving the ECU to get access. As it turns out I didn’t need to connect this at all (as I have climate control). Anyway it’s just easier to pull the grille off, remove the sensor from the radiator support panel, cut the wire, crimp in your piggy back wires, seal it all up again and then run the wire into the cabin. I used figure 8 cable again, this time 15 amp so it had a bit more thickness to it. You need two connections (the other is for pin 23) so do both at the same time. I ran the cable up behind the headlight then along the loom the MAF sensor goes to back to the firewall.

Pin 11 – Accessory power

Here’s the thing. The RV meter has 3 separate power supplies. This is tedious but by design and it does different stuff depending upon where the ignition barrel is sitting at any given moment.

Now you might get as lucky as I did. I reckon you will. Get down near your gear sticks and look into the single din slot towards the right. On the right edge of the din slot you should see a single pink wire taped to the metal with a single blade terminal inside a white single pin plug. My testing showed this was a spare accessory power source. I used a small jewellers screwdriver to release the blade from the connector housing and then joined to the blade using a female crimp connector and stuck heatshrink over the top.

Pin 12 – Constant power

Okay now things get a little dodgy but I’m game with the risks I’ve taken. I’ve done this before and never had a connection come loose. Your results may vary and you may choose to do this a different way. My way is quick and dirty and on this occasion it worked.

If you remove the dash panel below the steering wheel you will have good access to the fuse panel and relays. The layout looks like this:

Click to view larger picture

Some of the relay slots are empty but the pins within those slots are still live.

Have a look for relay spots C214 and C215. On my car they were both empty. On C215 the bottom right pin should be constant power – check it with a test lamp or multimeter to be extra sure.

If it is constant power as expected then a small male blade crimp terminal will push in there much the same way as a relay blade would. Heatshrink it all and push it in there good and tight. But don’t do this til the end or you will have live wire hanging around loose until you connect it all up to the R meter etc.

Pin 13 – Speed signal

Go back to C30 where you picked up the fuel level signal. On the same plug is a white wire with pale blue trace. This is the speed signal wire. Much like the fuel level wire it runs back along the door sill which is why I said don’t tape it up again yet.

I spliced into this one exactly the same way as the fuel wire but offset it a bit from the other connection to make sure I didn’t have too big a bulge in the loom where all my joins were.

Don’t run this back to the RV meter until you read the next one but you can tape the loom back up and put the sill trim back on at this point if you want.

Pin 14 – Earth

While you were working on C30 above, you might have noticed a small white connector next to it with several black wires all connected to an earth point at the bottom of the area behind the passenger kick panel. I crimped on a ring terminal and stuck my earth wire under that bolt.

Having done that I taped the speed signal wire, the fuel level wire and the earth together to make maybe a 4 foot cable run, pushed it up towards the ECU and then ran it along near the blower motor behind the glovebox and up to the RV meter area. I put coloured heatshrink on the end of each of the 3 wires so I could remember which one was connected to what later.

Pin 21 – CANBUS (low)

See description under pin 7.

Pin 23 – Ambient temperature

See description for pin 10

Pin 25 – illumination

This is the only one I have any real doubts about. The manual says it gets a signal from the ETACS about illumination but as I read it I think they’re saying it gets two signals, one via canbus and one via a normal illumination signal. Anyway I just crimped another dodgy connection off the back of the small dash light that sits above the cigarette lighter. I already had some other connections in the same spot for the night lighting of some rocker switches anyway. You could choose somewhere else. Suffice it to say the RV meter didn’t shit itself when it received 12 volts on that pin so I’m guessing what I’ve done is okay.

Pin 26 – Ignition power

See my description for pin 12. I found ignition power on C214 in the relay box – again it was the bottom right terminal but test it before using it as not all Tritons are the same.
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:11 pm

Connecting it to the RV meter

So you have the diagram showing the pins and their numbers and you have a table showing what goes to which pin. You can gather up all of your 9 or 11 wires (depending on whether you needed the ambient temperature connections or not) and maybe tape them together or wrap in split loom.

Looking down from above there are 2 square holes in the rear of the upper cavity where a double din unit would sit. Run your cables up through there. I labelled all of my wires first so I wouldn’t lose track either now or 2 years from now when I go back for another look.

I connected the two Canbus wires direct to the terminals on the RV meter. The others I stuck in 3x 3 pin plugs. I grouped the 3 power wires together in 1, the fuel, speed and earth in another and the illumination and ambient temperature wires in the other. It seemed logical that way but you could just as easily use one big plug if you wanted to.

On the other half of the plugs I cut the small jaycar wires in half and got them all the same length. The female sockets on those header wires are metal with a black plastic cover. With the covers on they won’t all fit together as the pins are too closely spaced. There is a small tab of plastic that you can lever back with a jeweller’s screwdriver and the metal will slide out the back of the black plastic. Having done that you need to put heatshrink around the connectors as they will be very close together on the RV meter pins.

Here’s some crap pictures to show how mine roughly looks.

Click to view larger picture

Click to view larger picture

Click to view larger picture

Click to view larger picture

It is close and tedious work. You need good light (I used one of those LED lights you stick on your head) and something like tweezers or needle nose pliers to get the connectors on over the pins properly.

Now that mine is working I may fill the back of the plug with hot melt glue or something similar to make sure the headers can’t work their way loose. I taped all of the 11 wires together so that in theory you’d need to pull them all out at once rather than 1 being able to come free on its own.
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:12 pm

Proof of the pudding

Click to view larger picture

Click to view larger picture

Click to view larger picture

Excuse the dodgy ghetto cable ties, that was to hold it together on the test drive until I get around to modding the housing properly. :oops: :lol:
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:13 pm

Still to come – there are some gotchas in the setup involving vehicle type and the service menu. The relevant pages are in the PDF but I may come back here to explain later. Too tired now and getting sore hands from typing. :oops:
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Joel on Sun Mar 29, 2015 5:30 am

Thanks Dave for the awesome write up. Its info like and blokes like you that make this site what it is. Thanks for the hard work
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby variflex on Sun Mar 29, 2015 7:14 am

Wow,thats some awesome work,
I'm wondering if the RV meter in the ML can be swapped for this style
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby NowForThe5th on Sun Mar 29, 2015 8:08 am

Well done, CD. Big effort, mate. :D

No wonder your hands were getting tired from typing. Only 9 minutes from first post to last. :shock:
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sun Mar 29, 2015 8:33 am

variflex wrote:Wow,thats some awesome work,
I'm wondering if the RV meter in the ML can be swapped for this style


I'm pretty confident it could be. And it would be easier than this since you already have most of the connections up there, just in a different plug.

The catch is this, and it relates to the bit I haven't typed yet. The unit will come set to a vehicle type. There are 4 types within the export tritons. The type dictates the functions available. You should reset the type to zero in service mode and then the next time it starts it scans the canbus and works out the vehicle type which dictates the displays available. So the unknown is what vehicle type it would choose once it scanned the ML canbus. If it chooses one of the lesser vehicle types then you end up without the trip computer functions, which would suck.
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby coughy on Sun Mar 29, 2015 9:35 am

great write up dave as you know im going to do this now as well
you have given me some excitement again in this project
what rv meter did it come out of?? was it the mn?? late 2010 after??
and no can bus adapter needed?? nice if so
im going to go to the wreckers during to week and see if i can get the harness from the main loom and chop it of if they will let me then i have the the right plug to fit back of rv meter.
and will ask for the rv meter at same time..
my mate is going to upgrade his head unit soonish so im been waiting for him to do so but im getting impatient now..
im watching this space..
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sun Mar 29, 2015 10:03 am

My RV meter was from an MN Triton. There is a service menu where you set the vehicle and one of the options available is for a Challenger so I would think you could fit a Triton display to your vehicle.

No canbus adapter required. If you didn't need the trip computer functions you could skip the canbus altogether. It will do an ambient temperature display straight from that sensor you bought if you hook it up the way I've discussed but skipping the OBD/canbus. The ML units appear to have been a bit more basic and those need the canbus adapter to work. The MN units seem to have that built into them.

I suppose having the correct plug would be a bit more elegant but it will be woven into a pretty significant loom (it's a bit over an inch thick where it runs under that double din spot).

The main reasons I wanted to do it, apart from it being cool and generally having the shits with Mitsy for deleting trip computer functions from the MMCS, is to display the outside temp and to have the computer give me an estimated range from the remaining fuel. While I know the range is imprecise it will save me doing the mental calculations while barreling down the highway trying to work out where I should fuel up next.

Having said that, I'm sure when I looked at the MMCS service manual there were two inputs for CAN high and CAN low. Now that I have found a way to provide that signal I am very tempted to wire them into the MMCS too and see what happens. It might need a firmware update or it might just work out of the box once it sees that signal. It would be kind of cool to unlock a few extra features in there. 8-)
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby coughy on Sun Mar 29, 2015 10:03 am

all so dave you have got in the cheat sheet to setup the obd2 connector you have it as pin7 should be pin6???
for the can high connection...
or you just connecting to the pin 7 for the same results?
all so im haveing trouble under standing the obd2 connections with the twisted wires??
ok got this
Pin 21 of our RV meter plug goes to pin 14 of the OBD connector
so the twisted wires connected to pin7 then becomes high and low and connect to the rv meter ??
is this right im confused. im not up to canbus i have not much playing with this..
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sun Mar 29, 2015 10:17 am

Cowboy Dave wrote:Still to come – there are some gotchas in the setup involving vehicle type and the service menu. The relevant pages are in the PDF but I may come back here to explain later. Too tired now and getting sort hands from typing. :oops:



Okay so as mentioned above, there is a service menu and you may need to tinker with it a bit.

In my case I ended up in there by accident, because I'd forgotten to plug in my OBD plug and had the shits because the trip functions weren't working. As it turned out they worked straight away once the proper connection was added but from reading the manual it became apparent that unless the donor vehicle was the same as the recipient vehicle the RV meter needed to be reset anyway.

Page 11 of the PDF above describes how to get into the service mode. Basically you start with the vehicle off and the ignition in the lock position. You press and hold the ADJ button which is the furthest on the right. Now turn the key to the accessories position while still holding the ADJ button. About 5 seconds after turning it on the screen should go into the service menu.

Once you're in there you have the option to set the body type - challenger, pajero sport, triton/l200 etc and the vehicle destination - in our case G EXP/EU/MMAL.

The important one though is something they call function type. It should initially have a number in my case it was function type 3 but I needed function type 1. Here is a table that shows the differences.

Click to view larger picture

The key here is the first few rows of the table under function types 2 and 4 which show that you get none of the trip computer functions if you're in one of those two categories. The annoying bit is that you don't have much of a choice here. You can either leave it as it was set from the donor vehicle or you can let it auto detect from your car. If your car tells it that it's a 2 or a 4 then you're going to lose your trip computer function and I can't much think of a way to change that if it happens. That said if the vehicle is a 2 or a 4 then it wasn't likely to let you have a trip computer working anyway. There may be a way to recode the ECU or ETACS with a MUT3 but that is beyond the scope of this exercise.

Anyway with that warning on board, you reset the function type to zero, then you exit using the info key as described in the manual pages, then you turn the key to off. Wait 30 seconds or so for the power to leave the ACC circuits. If you have an MMCS as I do you will be able to hear when the cooling fan at the back of the MMCS powers down. Now turn the engine on and the RV meter will query the CANBUS and work out for itself whether it is a 1, 2, 3 or 4. If the trip computer now works then you are a 1 or a 3. If not you'll have to go back into the service mode to see what function type it chose.
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sun Mar 29, 2015 10:19 am

coughy wrote:all so dave you have got in the cheat sheet to setup the obd2 connector you have it as pin7 should be pin6???
for the can high connection...
or you just connecting to the pin 7 for the same results?
all so im haveing trouble under standing the obd2 connections with the twisted wires??
ok got this
Pin 21 of our RV meter plug goes to pin 14 of the OBD connector
so the twisted wires connected to pin7 then becomes high and low and connect to the rv meter ??
is this right im confused. im not up to canbus i have not much playing with this..



We are picking up pins 6 and 14 of the OBD connector and we are supplying them to pins 7 and 21 of the RV meter. One is high and one is low - the OBD diagram shows which is which. The two wires are twisted together like in an ethernet cable but the two ends remain separate and on separate pins. I think it is just to reduce electrical interference.
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sun Mar 29, 2015 10:22 am

Here's the bit from the manual that put me onto the twisted pairs:

Canbus repair.JPG
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby coughy on Sun Mar 29, 2015 12:15 pm

ok sorry now i get it
as for the twisted wires just strip back and termiate with in 10cm of insulation and then twist the insulated wires together so they dont touch each other .
couldnt you just use a resistor in there as the canbus is set at 60ohms ??
also pin 16 is a fused power supply and 4 and 5 are earth could use them aswell
i will test and see if constant power or switched ..
but now im getting excited..
going to make up the patch leads now start the ball rolling...
so about 6 " long will be enuff or longer
im considering placing it in the hole where the single din should be..
or i might get the new pc hood and put it up there
dont know i will have a think about it...
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sun Mar 29, 2015 12:33 pm

You only need maybe 2 or 3 foot from OBD to RVM depending where you put it. The only one that need 6ft (maybe) will be from passenger kick panel to centre console but measure it out I guess.

I took the 10cm to mean 10cm max of straight (ie not twisted) wire. Mine is twisted to about 2cm from the terminals. It might be overkill really but who knows. The scangauge extension cord I have uses ethernet cable which is all twisted pairs inside so I guess it is a known convention. The strange thing is that the CANBUS wires I did find in the original loom all looked straight but perhaps they were twisted once they disappeared into the taped up looms.

You've reminded me of something else though, which I'll add to a separate post shortly.
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sun Mar 29, 2015 12:40 pm

In addition to RodEddy's modifications using the aliexpress option for the RV Meter relocation, there are at least two other options which might work but are either harder to get or more expensive.

1 is that Parrot sell a kit with a double din head unit. See this thread for details:
http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=17754&hilit=parrot#p456705

The author of the above thread is overseas from Oz but you may be able to source the stuff here.

The other is that Aerpro does a relocation kit. Part number FP8013K http://aerpro.com/fp8013k

That kit includes a panel to mount the info display where the single din unit would usually fit. Same sort of deal as the parrot kit from what I could see. The pricing is a bit out of control but it includes a double din fascia and steering wheel control adapter so it's a bit more than just the plastic surround bit http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MITSUBISHI-TRITON-AERPRO-FULL-INSTALLATION-KIT-/360995716435
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Trainer4wd on Sun Mar 29, 2015 12:57 pm

Great work :)

Looks like a nightmare, but worth the effort :P
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sun Mar 29, 2015 1:31 pm

Well it will be if I ever get it to sit in the dash properly. I've had to stop as i don't have the fascia bit I need and I don't want to re-assemble everything yet. I may end up using tape and cable ties for a temporary fix :oops:
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Re: How to retrofit a Mitsubishi RV meter

Postby coughy on Sun Mar 29, 2015 1:49 pm

on the mmcs dave the pins are 8 for can high and
18 for can low on back of mmcs plug it is the one next to the ariel plug...
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