2010 GLX R stereo

[Zippidy]

Hi Kids,

First time poster

Went to install a new head unit.. what a mess it is behind there!

I installed new one in my Ranger and bought an adapter off ebay which made everything plug and play.. is there something similar for these Tritons?

Its the stock head unit with the trip computer above and stereo controls on steering wheel..

Cheers

[Cowboy Dave]

Have a look on the aerpro site. They list all the different models of both the cars and the radios with what plugs you need.

[Zippidy]

Thanks for your response..

After speaking to them, this is what I need:



CHBM8C - Steering control harness
APP9KE2 - Secondary ISO & Patch lead

Is yhe CHBM8C really $200? Are there cheaper ones?

[Cowboy Dave]

Depends what your head unit is and how it handles those sorts of external signals. Some you can DIY and some are a nightmare.

What brand and model is the new one? And does it have a separate plug or input for steering wheel controls?

[Zippidy]

It's a Kenwood KMM-BT302. There's no extra slot for steering controls.

I've accepted that I'm most probably goung to lose them so would be happy to get the temp gauge thingo to still work as well as my bluetooth.

[Cowboy Dave]

Okay so paid options first.

Here's the Kenwood to ISO adapter for that unit ($16 delivered):

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ISO-WIRING-HARNESS-for-KENWOOD-KMM-BT302-KMMBT302-adaptor-cable-connector-lead-/272308937683

Note that it specifically references the blue and yellow steering wheel control wire - which is also in the head unit manual on the wiring/installation diagram page.

Now here is the vehicle to ISO adapter for the 2010 GLXR ($15 delivered):

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MITSUBISHI-TRITON-14-PIN-ISO-WIRING-HARNESS-adaptor-cable-connector-lead-loom-/251887138744

You should confirm first that your car has the 14 pin plug. Note that the description specifically says that this loom will not enable the steering wheel controls.

The steering wheel controller interface that the same seller does for the Triton is this one ($115 delivered - a lot of money but way less than the $200 you mentioned earlier):

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MITSUBISHI-TRITON-ML-MN-2006-2011-STEERING-WHEEL-CONTROL-HARNESS-PATCH-LEAD-/271579910600

Note that they list manufacturers it will work with and Kenwood is one of those. They suggest you tell them which model you have as there are variations in the patch looms to match the brand. The picture shows an example with a small plug like a headphone plug which wouldn't fit your unit. I'm guessing if you tell them the unit you will get one with a single output wire to match the yellow/blue wire mentioned above.

I think, but you'll need to check, that the steering wheel control loom probably negates the need for the vehicle specific loom I mentioned above. It looks to replicate the ISO plugs and the plug into the back of the head unit. If that's right then if you take off the $15 you'd pay for that loom anyway the steering option is really only costing you $100 extra.

Now the DIY options.

This page from Kenwood gives some insight to how simple the whole interface is http://www.kenwood.com/au/car/visual_navigation/oem/

It doesn't actually help you though as it only has the 20 pin for Mitsubishi and not your 14 pin plug. But - from memory that head unit has two plugs going into it. I've got one somewhere here I can look at but I can't do it all for you and I'd have to walk 50 odd metres and then rummage around a bit so that's too hard for me this early in the day. So have a look at the other plug and see if it has 20 pins. If it does you might be lucky. It may be as simple as connecting the wire identified to the blue/yellow wire.

The ebay seller seems to contend that their loom has a magic black box which translates the signal to one that matches the head unit. I'm not 100% convinced by that. It probably varies a little from head unit to head unit but you're probably in with a shot of a direct connection actually working without the magic black box.

This search will lead you to 10 threads specifically about steering wheel controls - if the answer as to which wire and plug you need isn't in one of them I'll be stunned.

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/search.php?keywords=steering+wheel+control*&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=titleonly&sr=posts&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

You also mention the temperature control thing and the bluetooth. I'm guessing you mean the RV Meter (the trip computer thing above the stereo) with the temperature reference. That will continue to work with the new head unit. All you will lose, if you had it, is the display of material that related to the radio or CD player. So station and track number, that sort of thing. No great loss.

The bluetooth I'm not sure what you mean. The new unit has its own bluetooth built in. And its own microphone that plugs into the back. Effectively you're doing a total transplant there replacing the existing setup with that one.

[Zippidy]

Cowboy Dave, you're a weapon. I appreciate the effort you've put into this. If you're in SEQ then I will come drop off a 6 pack.

By Bluetooth; it's the one that's already in the car when I got it. The microphone's on the door pillar and just wanted to avoid having to put the new one in.

Ultimately you're saying to buy those 2 parts ($16 & $15) then I'll be right to go except for the steering wheel controls?

Here's a pic of the back of the factory unit and of the cable jungle...

[Zippidy]

[Cowboy Dave]

If we accept that the advertisements on ebay are true then yes the two cheaper harnesses will get you up and running but you will lose the steering wheel controls and your current microphone will not work.

I'd have to go back to the manual to work out if you can make the current microphone work easily or if it would be tricky. Basically if the new microphone that came with the head unit has its own plug like on a set of headphones then it would be a pain in the arse. If it has two wires going in somewhere else then it should be do-able.

I'm still convinced we can make the steering wheel controls work with those cheaper looms but will need more time to look at that.

If we don't want to accept what the advertisements say about pins and plugs etc then we should count the pins on the back of the headunit. I can't do that from your photos but as I have 3 of that model lying around where I will be today I will try to remember to have a look and post again for you tonight.

[Cowboy Dave]

Okay I had a look and yes that head unit has the two 14 pin plugs so the items above will do the job apart from steering controls and current mike, as above.

Will post again on the steering thing later.

Also I probably should have mentioned that I have purchased from that eBay vendor before and found the service good.

[Cowboy Dave]

Okay so you can probably use your existing microphone, if your car is the same as what I was looking at.

If you look below the radio, right down on top of the transmission tunnel, you should see a blue plastic box wrapped in sponge. That, if you have it, is your parrot Bluetooth unit and your current mic will be plugged into it.

Most of the wires will be wrapped in sponge and there will be tonnes of black tape to work your way through to free up the mic plug and cord.

It looks like this:

[Cowboy Dave]

Carefully remove the mic cable from the parrot unit and cut away all the tape until you have enough free cord to reach the back of the unit where you can plug it in to the same hole as the instructions say to use with the kenwood mic.

The parrot is now surplus to your needs - you should find it is in the middle of a patch loom of its own which at one end went into the rear of the stereo and at the other end into the vehicle loom.

[jaffa_cecil]

I just found this in my MN GLX-R, just above the fuse box. I tried to tap in to the wires for phone + and - thinking I could hijack the microphone, but I believe the box behind it supplies power to the microphone then passes it to the mute/speaker/radio switching box on the front.

I pulled apart the microphone that is up on the windshield, and using a multimeter I found that there is no direct continuity between either if the connections on the electret microphone and the wires that run down the A pillar, which confirmed my thought that power was needed to the microphone to power some sort of mic pre amp.

I ran out of time, and seeing how easy it was to pull the A-pillar cover off I just ran the mic that came with my stereo up there and just unplugged the box at the back in the photo so my phone would stop nagging me to connect to the factory Bluetooth.

I will post a couple of photos just as soon as I can figure out how...