2012 Triton Limp Mode

[Swoj2]

Hi all,

I've had my Triton for about 6-7 months now. A few months ago, the car started going into limp mode. I bought a cheap OBD scanner, and I was getting the p0340 code. I took it to an autosparky (3 times for them to replace the camshaft sensor as they wanted to see it fault) and they did so.... $500 later.

After this, the car continued to go into limp mode. I began to get the p0335 code and occasionally the p0336 code. The autosparkys had the car another 3 times and refused to replace the crankshaft sensor without seeing it fault for them (despite the fact whenever I picked it up it'd fault for me) so I got it replaced by my mechanic. Another $320.

Forward to now. The car kept going into limp mode. I decided it was time to take it in to Mitsubishi. I took it in, explained the whole situation and they said they'd get it done.
Day 1: They couldn't get the car to fault. They kept it overnight.
Day 2: They said it faulted for them, they couldn't figure out why, so they checked the harnesses and wires and such. On the phone they said, and I quote verbatim, "your car is in perfect working order." I pay them $400 and I'm on my way, stoked that my car is finally fixed.
Day 3: My car drives 500m and goes into limp mode. I turn it off, turn it back on, drive 20m, limp mode. Rinse and repeat until it finally stops doing it after 6 times. I took it straight back to Mitsubishi. I call them, they can't diagnose anything wrong with the car, and can't get it to fault. Keep the car overnight.
Day 4 (today): Rinse and repeat - car's not faulting, no diagnosis, keep the car overnight.
Day 5: let's see what happens.

I'd love some input on this. I've spent over $1200 trying to sort the same issue for multiple months now. If Mitsubishi can't fix it, who can???

[RHKTriton]

You are/were a rich man. Why are you paying when no one has actually fixed anything?

I suggest when you get problems around engine management and safety items, you're probably stuck going straight to a dealer.

If the Cam sensor had been replaced by a genuine part and the fault continued, it would be unlikely to be the sensor. From that point I'd check the loom and reseat any connectors between there and the ECU.

If the Stealer gets to the point of not getting the fault to occur and you cop it, you'd have to ask what's different when different parties do the driving.

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

There is a small harness between the crankshaft sensor and main harness. It runs up behind the AC compressor mounting plate. Recently i have had 2 of those give faultcodes for crank sensor.

1 of them has had new engines under the overeheating program, and this connector had been connected and disconnected more than it usually would have been. And was looking decidedly average. Has yours had a new engine before? If you are not sure, your engine number will be either 4D56* C** **** if it has been replaced or with out the C if it hasnt