Headlight adjustment

[NowForThe5th]

The pop you heard was more likely the ball coming out of the ball and socket joint. If it was the thread coming out of the captive nut (which you think it is) then the light would be aimed way high or way low.

It is fixable but the headlight needs to be dismantled completely to access the joint. Not cheap but less than a new headlight. Only problem being that there are maybe only about half a dozen places in Oz that can do it.

[gaspode]

Cheers NFT5, I thought that was going to be the case.

[killa]

Cheers NFT5, I thought that was going to be the case.

Just so you know, you're not alone.
Mine has done the same thing following an accident repair. Now I have a loose LH low beam light that dances over the bumps. Bloody PITA and expensive to rectify.
I'll search myself now but is there an easy way to remove the headlamps on these things? I've found 4 bolts so far (2 top, 1 left, 1 right rear), there must be more..

[Cowboy Dave]

Here you go Killa, all pre-prepared for you:

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=8406&p=162628&hilit=headlight+removal#p162628

[gaspode]

I have played it safe with mine, bought a new RH headlight unit off ebay for $140, that way if it turns out I can't fix it when I remove it, I have Plan B.

[NowForThe5th]

Cheers NFT5, I thought that was going to be the case.

Just so you know, you're not alone.
Mine has done the same thing following an accident repair. Now I have a loose LH low beam light that dances over the bumps. Bloody PITA and expensive to rectify.
I'll search myself now but is there an easy way to remove the headlamps on these things? I've found 4 bolts so far (2 top, 1 left, 1 right rear), there must be more..

Don't forget the screw adjacent to bolt inside bottom corner of the light.

[killa]

Here you go Killa, all pre-prepared for you:

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=8406&p=162628&hilit=headlight+removal#p162628

Cheers CD,
I was looking at the same link yesterday.

Don't forget the screw adjacent to bolt inside bottom corner of the light.

5th,
Haven't found that one yet but the Challenger lights have a series of prongs on the bottom front edge that seem to be catching on the plastic trim which seems to be my issue. Gave up and had a beer last night, will have another crack later today.

[biggibbo]

There's one under the plastic trim of the wheel arch

[killa]

There's one under the plastic trim of the wheel arch

Yep got that one, headlamp is loose, still can't remove it though.
Bullbar and trim piece look like they need to come off. Not looking forward to that

[NowForThe5th]

5th,
Haven't found that one yet but the Challenger lights have a series of prongs on the bottom front edge that seem to be catching on the plastic trim which seems to be my issue. Gave up and had a beer last night, will have another crack later today.

Been away for a couple of days but sounds like different to Triton. If so, believe that they're clips that hold the plastic bumper bar in place. Have to remove the bar first if that's the case.

[Rexona]

Hello guys new to the forum, I have just purchased a second hand triton with projector headlights and the beams are dangerously low so I cant see that far in front of me, hard to see street signs etc, can anyone please give me an idea of how to adjust the lights so the beam comes up.

Thanks Brett

[NowForThe5th]

Welcome to the forum, Rexona.

I've moved your post in here and, as you'll see, there is a whole thread on this subject.

[M.Bas]

I'm going to bump this one...

Now that the longs days are over, and it's dark at around 4 o'clock we get to play with the high beams again.
Only problem is my high beams seem to be a bit crosseyed... I'm lighting up more left of the road then the road itself and we drive on the right hand side up here in scandinavia.
I've checked the aim of the beams and they are off center. On low beams it's not very noticable so it's not a very big issue right now, but I'd like to have it fixed before my 3000+km drive during chistmas/new year.

I already have tried the horizontal adjustment, but that only seems to give a small up/down adjustment instead of left/right when rotated with a socket wrench. With a screwdriver in the hole from the top as mentioned in the maintenance manual didn't give a noticeable difference at all. Any ideas on how to solve this?

[NowForThe5th]

The horizontal adjustment does have an effect on the vertical adjustment because of the placement of the adjusting screws and the ball/socket joint on which the whole thing rotates.

To help you understand, this is what is inside your headlight:


This picture is actually part of the inside of a Triton headlight. Not the factory light but an aftermarket one. Nevertheless, the principle is the same. It is a mounting plate on which your light reflector (or reflectors in this case) are mounted.

The two adjusters that you can see from the outside are just long screws that go into the plastic fittings on the left and lower right of this mounting plate. These screws are held by the back of the light shell so they don't go in or out, just rotate. The plastic fitting on the top right is the socket part of a ball and socket joint.

So, when you turn the screw that is threaded into the fitting on the left the mounting plate rotates on the two fittings on the right and the aim of the light is moved left or right. If you turn the screw that is threaded into the fitting on the lower right then the plate will rotate on the other two fittings and the aim will move up or down.

So, what can happen? Well, firstly if the screw has been turned too fast or with too much force it can strip the thread of the soft plastic fitting. When that happens the light will appear to move a little but not really, because the thread is not gripping the plastic fitting.

Secondly, it it possible that the screw has been turned out so far that it has actually come out of the fitting. Again, turning from the outside you'll see the aim move a little but then return to where it was.

The third possibility is that the screw has been screwed in so far that it actually pulls the adjuster through the back of the headlight. If this happens it will be obvious.

There is a good reason why manufacturers provide the screwdriver adjustment from the top. Apart from convenience, that is to allow fine adjustment but also to not turn the adjusting screw too far or too fast. Doing it the right way is a little slower but more accurate and less likely to damage the mechanism.

The thread on the screw is quite fine. You may have to turn it quite a few times to get appreciable sideways movement in the aim. Turn the screw clockwise to move the aim out, anti-clockwise to move it in, towards the centreline of the vehicle. If the screw just keeps turning and there is no change in the adjustment of the light then it is probably damaged, as described above. Repair is possible but the whole headlight has to be taken apart and that, even if you can find someone who is experienced in the process of heating, dismantling and re-assembly, is going to be expensive.

On some cars the adjusting screw is stepped at the end so it doesn't actually fall out of the fitting when unscrewed too far. You can try turning slowly clockwise and you may just be lucky enough that it grabs and re-threads. Unlikely, though.

Basically if they've been taken beyond the limit of adjustment then the only solution is replacement.

[Icky]

Something of a thread revival.

i have a 2015 MN 4WD ute and for a recent rego check the mechanic kindly took it upon himself to lower the aim point on both headlights.
He says they are now aiming where they should be, I was perfectly happy with the setting and think they are now far too low. He didn't use one of those aiming machines that slides up and down on a post (name?) , he used some marks on his workshop wall.

I can't seem to find anyone local who uses one of those aiming machines, so I have tried to adjust them myself, but without success.

There are 2 star notched wheels on each headlight, one at approx TDC and one about 4 o'clock, that require a 10mm ring spanner to turn. I can't see anywhere for a screw driver to be used. Problem is that turning them seems to make absolutely no difference at all to the point I have measured and marked on the wall measured at 5m with a 1.2% deflection down using the formula in a post above.

So my question, am I using the correct adjusting screw, or have they maybe been turned down so far they have disengaged from the nut that presumably holds them in place?

[NowForThe5th]

Right screws, wrong method.

You need a long #2 Phillips head screwdriver. Mine is 250mm, a 200mm might work but I'm not 100% sure. 150mm won't be long enough.

Above those notched wheels will be a guide for the screwdriver shaft and above that a hole that you insert the screwdriver into. The Phillips head then becomes a gear wheel that engages with the notches so that by turning the screwdriver you turn the notched wheel, but slowly.

The risk with using a spanner or socket on the 10mm head in the notched wheel is that you put too much pressure on the plastic fitting inside, generally stripping it.

[Icky]

Right screws, wrong method.

You need a long #2 Phillips head screwdriver. Mine is 250mm, a 200mm might work but I'm not 100% sure. 150mm won't be long enough.

Above those notched wheels will be a guide for the screwdriver shaft and above that a hole that you insert the screwdriver into. The Phillips head then becomes a gear wheel that engages with the notches so that by turning the screwdriver you turn the notched wheel, but slowly.

The risk with using a spanner or socket on the 10mm head in the notched wheel is that you put too much pressure on the plastic fitting inside, generally stripping it.

thanks so much, will do as suggested.

[Icky]

Right screws, wrong method.

You need a long #2 Phillips head screwdriver. Mine is 250mm, a 200mm might work but I'm not 100% sure. 150mm won't be long enough.

Above those notched wheels will be a guide for the screwdriver shaft and above that a hole that you insert the screwdriver into. The Phillips head then becomes a gear wheel that engages with the notches so that by turning the screwdriver you turn the notched wheel, but slowly.

The risk with using a spanner or socket on the 10mm head in the notched wheel is that you put too much pressure on the plastic fitting inside, generally stripping it.

thanks so much, will do as suggested.

Well despite my family reputation as tending towards a passion fingers type when it comes to automotive matters (harsh, I thought) I managed to readjust the headlights by following the instructions above.

Pleasingly it seems the screw had not been wound out so far that it had become disengaged from the ball joint.

Thanks to NowForThe5th.