Manual transmission to auto conversion?

[Hornet75]

Hi all

Have had a search and haven't been able to find anything.
Just wondering if anyone has ever done a manual to auto conversion to the MN Triton?

I think my clutch is finally on the way out and would prefer to have an auto, though don't want to change vehicles after everything I've done to the old girl.

Thanks in advance
Bill

[NowForThe5th]

Perhaps if you searched "conversion" rather than "conversation"?

Try this search. One thread there on an ML and a few other mentions.

TBH, I think the effort to get get the gearbox ECU talking to all the others may well put it in the too hard basket.

[Hornet75]

Damn auto correct on this tablet.

Will try searching again.

My MN is a 2010, though not sure if it has a BCM or not. If it does then the possibility would be dramatically reduced.

[Sav]

I think wholesale Automatics did the conversion with a 5 speed

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[BillMcQuade]

The only way I could see it working is to buy a donor vehicle from the salvage auctions, and use all the loom, ECU, etc from that. Even then, you might need someone (dealer? tuner?) to access the original ECU to let it know that it is now an auto.

[MilkmanDan]

Have done this on GM vehicles, bit of fiddle but I'd say the triton is fairly simple electrics wise.

Generally yes require the loom from donor, depending on how well you can splice could be complete front to rear swap. The ecu may be as simple as swapping too from manwell to auto, with the FBW throttle it could be easier to do. I'm not too familiar with them sorry so can't really add to that.

If you have a good car already give it a go, plenty of people around who can assist and you could get it done cheaper than buying an auto and selling. I'd reccomend Prowire Performance Wiring.

[RHKTriton]

I've often thought about swapping in an auto if the manual ever carked it and simply use it manually.

So use the benefits of the auto's gear set and torque converter, select the gears yourself. The lock clutch could be set up to stay locked up in the higher three gears with the clutch pedal taking over the role to disengage this when shifting. A bit of 'creative' electrics wizardry could make an interesting package.

In this scenario you still drive the car, like with a manual, don't need to worry about altering anything to do with your existing ecu ( it doesn't interact with your manual ). The torque converter makes it great for maneuvering trailers, etc.

[bstob1]

Hey everyone, Yes i know this topic has been posted previously however i thought a more in-depth thread would be useful and share what i have learnt so far.

As most manual MN owners would know the gear ratios in the 5 speed box are dreadful even more so when they are exasperated by 34" tyres. 1st gear is far to tall, Reverse feels like you could do 100km'h and 5th isn't tall enough.

Which leaves me starring down the barrel of an auto swap. So far from i have gathered it will require the gearbox, TC, flex plate maybe, gearbox cross-member, auto tail shaft, trans ecu, trans loom, Shifter and surround and engine ecu.

I have a few questions though, Are the diff ratios the same between manual and auto models?
Is the front tail shaft the same?
Do you need the dash from an auto?
Where would the transmission Ecu be located
And finally in everyone's opinion would it easier to transplant an entire engine and drive-line?

Have put too much time and effort into this vehicle to swap it for an auto couldn't part with it.

[NowForThe5th]

Post moved to an existing thread.

bstob1, lose the 34" tyres and change the diff ratios. That alone will fix 90% of your problems. Changing to an auto box without changing the diff ratios won't fix it, maybe make it worse. Have a look at the transfer case too. Wholesale Automatics (and others) do a ratio conversion for low range that addresses the fairly high Mitsubishi standard.

[srb]

Post moved to an existing thread.

bstob1, lose the 34" tyres and change the diff ratios. That alone will fix 90% of your problems. Changing to an auto box without changing the diff ratios won't fix it, maybe make it worse. Have a look at the transfer case too. Wholesale Automatics (and others) do a ratio conversion for low range that addresses the fairly high Mitsubishi standard.

Agree! Swapping out the manual box for an auto won't fix the gear ratios or the drivabilty, you'll only make things worse, stressing the auto by slipping the crap out of the torque converter.

The 5speed manual in the MN is not a bad thing, it's a lot nicer than the 5speed auto in my opinion.

Easier and cheaper option is to correct your diff ratios. Find out what diff ratios you already have... MNs can have 3:6, 3:9, or 4:1. The ML V6 triton had 4:3 ratios, this would be the ideal ratio use if you're running 33s or 34s.

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