broken cv joint

[Homer]

Yeah after seeing a few front diff/diff component failures I'd be sticking with fusible CV's.
At $200 a pop and minimal gear needed to carry the required tools and maybe 30-60mins (depending how many times you've done it) to change one out, I think the standard type CV's are probably a better option if you go extreme 4wding.

If you wanted to run 3" permanently though and didn't do too much really gnarly shit to overstress the little front diff in the Triton, then the RCV's would be a decent option.

If they made them for the Triton

[macca002]

There was a Paj at Finke running a set of RCV's up front. Not too sure if they were a custom order or if they were also running the Mitsu diff housing still. I suspect that they were, as the Paj diff is known for its strength compared to others.

If you were to upgrade to RCVs, then a diff upgrade would also be something to consider. ARB/TJM/Eaton would replace most of the internals - which would leave pinion or transfer case chain as the next 'weak link'.

Both of them are obviously not bomb proof - but when it comes to upgrading anything to be stronger, the next link in the chain is usually what requires attention next.

$200 for a CV would appeal to most people (myself included), but some may still want to run bigger lift/tyres/whatever which causes that already fusable CV to become an even greater liability.

[RHKTriton]

You guys crack me up with your "fusible CVs" lol.

Just admit you're driving the units beyond the design parameters and that the CV cops it
because of the conditions it is expected to deliver torque to the wheels.

That's why a live axle is the best for towing - big reduction gear from drive shaft to axle and "solid-diff virtually as strong as solid axle" connection to wheels.

[macca002]

You guys crack me up with your "fusible CVs" lol.

Just admit you're driving the units beyond the design parameters and that the CV cops it
because of the conditions it is expected to deliver torque to the wheels.

That's why a live axle is the best for towing - big reduction gear from drive shaft to axle and "solid-diff virtually as strong as solid axle" connection to wheels.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but IFS is the way of the future - regardless of if it is 'better' or not.
The number of vehicle manufacturers that are still bringing out solid front 4x4's are becoming fewer and fewer.

Even the solid rear is starting to be phased out with IRS

[srb]

I don't know why people get so upset about braking or wearing out cv's:-? Reasonably easy to replace on the track and are fairly cheap aftermarket items. And like its been pointed out so many times... Better to brake a cv than your diff. Man up everyone!

[stefanos]

... Better to brake a cv than your diff. :

Yeap!!!



...a cheap item but with alot of work to replace it!!!

[viking shippy]

I don't know why people get so upset about braking or wearing out cv's:-? Reasonably easy to replace on the track and are fairly cheap aftermarket items. And like its been pointed out so many times... Better to brake a cv than your diff. Man up everyone!

Priceless
Meanwhile Others are still chucking sand....

[MilkmanDan]

I don't know why people get so upset about braking or wearing out cv's:-? Reasonably easy to replace on the track and are fairly cheap aftermarket items. And like its been pointed out so many times... Better to brake a cv than your diff. Man up everyone!

I agree, was a regular occurrence with my SS when I had slicks bolted on the rears

[mattz]

George stick your head underneath the front wheel arch and have a look at your current control arms and have a look at how they are built,what they do and what will collapse if one doesn't cut it.

I'm all for pushing the boundaries but the build quality of the aftermarket control arms just doesn't do it for me.
I'd hate to be towing my caravan at 100 km/hr on a dirt hwy in the middle of Australia with my family on board to find a cheap uca wasn't up to standard. The consequences could be dire.
Remember these are not a static part.

If there was something like stefanos uca on the market I would consider it after a lot of thought and research.
This ain't a pissing contest......your life could be on the line.
Or an insurance co could reject a claim after you've written off your triton and you're left with 4 1/2 years of repayments and no wheels

You might call this post negative but I'd hate to say "go for it"and hear you've put it into a bridge at 110km because a cheap uca let go.
I know it's not what you want to hear but that's what forums are all about.
Listen to everyone and then make an informed decision.

Here is a perfect example of what I'm talking about in relation to uca quality.
These first two pis are built by Stefanos.

And this next pic is from an aftermarket supplier.

You can see the difference in build quality
Until something like the first two pics are on the market I wouldn't consider these.
First two pics were lifted from this thread if you're interested.
viewtopic.php?t=12591

[chode007]

Ok guys need to know if I have done a CV, and this seems like the right thread (well it started out ok)

Just went up to Lithgow so a mate could try out his 5 day old Hilux and now i have a clicking/ metal banging noise from my front left on full lock in 4wd. Sounds like a loose bash plate but checked and all tight. only happens in 4wd.

So how do you know if you have broken one? signs, symptoms?

Thanks guys
Julian

[ag9111]

If it only happens at lock then you have probably cracked a bearing race or damaged something in the CV. Both mine clicked for years and got progressively worse each time I went 4wding. Had all the gear to change them out on every trip but chickened out and eventually did it in the garage at home

[Danevs12345]

For the possible benefit of anyone searching (I tried before).

Bought a new right hand front drive shaft (CV joints, axle, boot, constant velocity etc). Brand was GSP as I think most generic non genuine seem to be, even ebay etc. It lasted 20 minutes off road, wasnt going that hard, sand work mainly.

Had to change to my spare on the tracks in a 40 degree day, not fun. And you cannot drive without the shaft, the axle nut holds the wheel bearing together.

Spoke to a CV joint place in Perth, Allan's, they make a shaft with recon genuine inner CV. $300.

A full genuine shaft costs 800 trade.

[NowForThe5th]

For the possible benefit of anyone searching (I tried before).

Search "cv joints".

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/search.php?st=0&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&keywords=%22cv+joints%22&start=25

Moved here which is a more general discussion thread on CVs.

[Danevs12345]

Ahhh I've been forgetting my quotation marks in search again. Thanks

[viking shippy]

Hey fellas I've been having trouble removing my cv axel shaft nut the one under the hub centre cap...what size socket is it?...save me taking the wheel of and measuring it plz..

[mattz]

32mm

[borngeek]

VS, once you remove the split pin, soak it in wd40 and give the end a solid knock with a hammer.

Using a decent sized rattle gun is the go, failing having that, a good extended bar for leverage and one good whack will loosen it.

Is always the original cv that is the hardest to remove. Subsequent snaps get easier.

Use new nut and washer supplied.

[viking shippy]

Thanks fellas all I need is a socket ...I'll use my Bosch driver drill...it gets my wheel nuts of in a jiffy so the cv nut no probs..

[srb]

Ah yes and no, this would be true for the genuine cv's but dont waste time rebooting the cheaper after market units, just as cheap to replace the complete shaft.

Replacing the complete shaft only takes around 30min with no "special" tools, no need to remove lower ball joint. Speaking for ML and MN Triton here, as I've not done one on MQ and MR, but I'd assume they'd be same same.

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