broken cv joint

[George Kyro]

For me, I have changed out mine when they start clicking or a fault is found (like my current one in need) for a total now of 4 cv's in 3yrs or so of having my front locker.

Take into consideration that my original ones were abused before the locker install and this is my first 4wd, so I'm still learning how to drive it properly - even more so now I'm dual locked.

Fridgie judging by that upskirt action i think you know how to drive your car perfectly fine !
As for the cv's, hearing that you've changed 4 in 3 years with another on the way now isnt comforting.

Especially with the fact that i like to head out bush quite often and sometimes its even 1100 kay away from home.
I guess i will have to get the diff drop kit and uca's etc and see how that goes.

here's to experimenting!

So i guess i know whats next on the mod list !

3 inch lift with new diffdrop kit = 2 inch cv angles and same as 2 inch clearance


Spending money to go backwards !!!

Feels good doesnt it ! lol

[Cowboy Dave]

Fridgie pushes Daisy pretty bloody hard. If you're covering those sort of kms on a trip you're probably not pushing it as hard as he is. If you spend all day driving and do less than 50kms then maybe you're into the same sort of hard going. Also fridgie used to drown his a bit and I've seen pics of it airborne so again not the greatest guide.

[George Kyro]

Fridgie pushes Daisy pretty bloody hard. If you're covering those sort of kms on a trip you're probably not pushing it as hard as he is. If you spend all day driving and do less than 50kms then maybe you're into the same sort of hard going. Also fridgie used to drown his a bit and I've seen pics of it airborne so again not the greatest guide.

I dont doubt there are a few of us here that do push them to there limits dave, As for the kilometers i meant that i travel 1100 kay one way from melbourne just to go to my families holiday house up in nelson bay and when i'm there i hit the dunes at stockton and try ducking out to wattagans too on the way back down so i'm saying that considering i travel a fair few kays just to get some play its not comforting knowing i could do a cv in such a trip.

I refuse to drown this one. Ive already left a car behind at fraser island this year. One is enough!

[George Kyro]

Didnt know whether to post this in ride heights or cv's etc so i took a punt an posted it here after Using the search engine.

lowering my front end today from 610 to a figure that hopefully wont give me cv issues.

I am noticing everyone here is running on average about 585 front. Is that considered a 2 inch lift?

Does this mean i shouldn't have any dramas at all with my cv's or does that mean i will still ruin them but it will take 100,000 kay now instead of 25,000 like mine only lasted at 3 inch ?

I am trying to achieve close to problem free motoring (cv wise) so I'd love to know how much wear people are getting out of there cv's on 2 inches of lift. I know people are going to tell me that the probability of running into issues with cv's once you go above standard height is inevitable, but I've searched Cv's but i cant find anywhere that anyone talks about the average lifespan of cv's with 2 inches of lift.

I know fridgie mentioned further up he's changed 4 cv's in 3 years. Is this normal? Are the rest of you going through this painful exercise of changing cv's that often too ?

I can say from my experience that if you lift your triton to 3 inches and 4wd as often as i do (1-3 times a month) your cv's should last you 20-25,000 kays,

Whats everyone getting out of theres and if i lower it to 585mm from centre of wheel to bottom of flair is this going to make that much of a difference ?

Thanks in advance !
Looking forward to hearing your input !

[fridgie]

Yes it will make a difference, as will the type of wheeling you do.

610 is way too high, basically has the front on the bump stop and cv at big angles full time.

585 is the recommended max height without changing other components. Cv's are less stressed but still able to be destroyed.

I go pretty hard offroad, big rock steps, front locker, push the limits of where these vehicles can go so expect failures. As do a few others who have done more cv's than I have.

Bigger rubber, chip/tune, terrain and driving style all come into play with their lifespan. I'm on the bad side of all these

It's a relatively cheap 'fuse' that protects other components like diff etc so I'm not concerned about breaking them occasionally. Comes with the territory

My car (well, when repaired anyway) is pretty much a toy that does 80% of its time off road. So lifespan is hard to judge for me.

[Froggy]

My CV's have done 165,000 k's to my knowledge (no reciepts for their replacement and the log book was pretty thorough when I bought it at 100,000)
Standard suspension & slightly larger than standard rubber.
Lifts, big tyres and rough driving kills them.

[4wd26]

585 is about the good spot in terms of longevity.

I ran at 595 for 4 years without a front locker and on 32" mud tyres and got 100,000kms out of the factory cv's

I started busting them when I left it at this height, installed a front locker and added in 34" simex centipedes.

sometimes they wouldn't last out a trip mind you once I've been fully locked the stuff I would try increased in difficulty, like keeping up with 4" lifted patrols on 35" tyres

so I have since dropped back to 585, can still fit the 34" tyres and I'm mindful of the terrain- but keep spare cv's on hand as it will happen- just not as often

[Homer]

I've had a 2" lift (sagged a little over time) 32's full time and front locker for well over 140K and never had a CV issue.

It's driving style, trip/track difficulty, an ABS cutout that allows you to stop the fronts overspinning and less torque that I think keeps mine good....plus the auto as it reduces the immediate torque delivery as well as allows left foot braking when you jump the fronts in the air - IMO.

It was the 610 that did you in as many people on here have posted when guys want to go 3".

I'd not run a big tune or sprint booster off road for starters, but it's the big rock steps, hard core wheeling, jumping the fronts and full lock that will break them rather than the 585 ride height now.

You were always going to do CV's with a 3" lift and it doesn't give you any significant advantage over a 2" lift....same for 33's V 32's...

Plenty will argue but the runs are on the board for 585 and 32's being the best combo particularly with a FL.

You can do most things a patrol on 33/35's can do with the above combo regularly. Approach/departure angle and wheelbase are the only real barriers with these but in saying that, they go nearly anywhere

[borngeek]

The simple reason you broke it, as the others have said, is you were running the suspension constantly at full droop. They snap easy at full droop and you were forcing it there 100% of the time
You are in for some more surprises if you keep it up, but I let you discover those for yourself. You aint no pioneer, put it that way.

585 is the upper end you should run for best travel range, without putting on badly designed thai suspension kits that include diff drops and UCA's and more. (BTV, ZAWs etc) No one makes these in australia. They will also be illegal and make your car roll over easier.

No idea why people run above 32's & a 2" lift (other than to be a show off mall crawler) as I can get wherever a 35" shod, 6 inch lifted thing (of any make) can get anyway.

I have trouble understanding why you believe a CV should last a certain amount of km's... It lasts as long as you allow it.. ie. stop punishing them. You want "problem free motoring.."? Stay at home and wash it.

---
This is how easy they go at full droop with a little too much power applied and the front locked. (NB: you would not even get this far without a front locker - they are the people parked up watching & taking video)
http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/844/qxc.mp4/<clicky


You get full droop whether you have a lift kit or not. So stop thinking a 2" kit increases your chance, it makes no difference. All you did was push it hard against the bump stops constantly.


I do not have a full lock breaking a CV video yet, but they smash the cups to a squillion pieces. Avoid full lock and too much power.
You can even do two at a time if you are really talented, so I have heard.

Power application (too much of it) kills them, but sometimes you need momentum, depending where you are trying to get. (this applies to front locked and open diff)
From what I have seen you do pretty tame stuff? So your CV's will last forever now you have reduced the height to a acceptable one.

//I have killed some in my time... They are piss easy to change and I consider it par for course, and part of the fun.

[stefanos]

I think that the 580-585 is the better height for the Triton....as borngeek said beware the bad products!!!

...my CV on 590.........with 1.7cm diff drop,but with a lot lot lot of work from me!!!



.on rock crawling...front locker and heavy foot is a bad combination for the cv's......traction control and heavy foot is the worst combination!!!!

[mattz]

There are some many variables, as everyone above has mentioned,that you can not put a life span on a drive shaft.

There are things you can do to reduce the risks.......and dropping your ride height from 610 is the first one.

Full droop,full lock and full throttle is probably the easiest way to snap a CV.

You can be unlucky too.

My advice is......learn how to change them or how to eliminate them to get you home and carry spares. Especially if you run a high ride height.

[Greedy]

There are some many variables, as everyone above has mentioned,that you can not put a life span on a drive shaft.

There are things you can do to reduce the risks.......and dropping your ride height from 610 is the first one.

Full droop,full lock and full throttle is probably the easiest way to snap a CV.

You can be unlucky too.

My advice is......learn how to change them or how to eliminate them to get you home and carry spares. Especially if you run a high ride height.

Donuts on the beach works too hey Matt.

[mattz]

There are some many variables, as everyone above has mentioned,that you can not put a life span on a drive shaft.

There are things you can do to reduce the risks.......and dropping your ride height from 610 is the first one.

Full droop,full lock and full throttle is probably the easiest way to snap a CV.

You can be unlucky too.

My advice is......learn how to change them or how to eliminate them to get you home and carry spares. Especially if you run a high ride height.

Donuts on the beach works too hey Matt.

Perfectly well.

[al coholic]

George, I think the point your missing is you aren't going wheeling with Fraz as he loves changing CV's
It's the only reason he gets invited

[dinos4x4]

this is how to shatter a CV in a Pajero .

Front locker + airborne = CV GO BANG http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDO4JgKtdW8

[fraz91]

George, I think the point your missing is you aren't going wheeling with Fraz as he loves changing CV's
It's the only reason he gets invited

I KNEW IT!
-----
Here's one I prepared earlier - Full lock and full droop with wheels spinning, wheel caught traction but drivetrain had momentum. As you can see, the bearings and shaft have exited the cup.



At the end of the day, it's down to how you drive more than anything. I follow the twin-locked guys with just traction control and an LSD, but I also put the car under a lot more strain doing so. I also take a lot more time in picking my lines to make sure the front wheels have as much traction as possible so that they're not spinning up as much. Then watch all the locked guys just point and shoot.

[srb]

I think Fraz is right on the money... You should have broken a 1000 cv's by now Fraz. :lol:

[srb]

I haven't broken a cv yet but I'm a little easier on mine than others... I have mine dual locked and crawler gears and believe this to be way less stress on the cv's.
My cv's have been clicking for a while now so I think they're starting to wear a bit... Will probably get them rebuilt and keep them as spares? Has anyone had the factory cv's rebuilt before?

[Cowboy Dave]

There was a place in Qld that was doing them IIRC. Homer knew where they were. Last I heard he had maybe half a dozen in pieces under a bench waiting to be taken down there. Then we found the cheap Bursons and the need for reco seemed to evaporate. Pretty sure I've read somewhere about another place, but buggered if I can remember where. I'm in the same boat as you in that I've not broken one yet. I reckon I may have seen a dozen go though which would be why I always carry a pair of spares.

[fridgie]

My first pair were rebuilt OEM'S, leethal got them done for me but not sure where.

I may have a place that can do them (in bris) but have to get off my arse and do some investigation into if they will actually do them and whether or not its worthwhile cost wise.

[Bigbirdalx]

My first pair were rebuilt OEM'S, leethal got them done for me but not sure where.

I may have a place that can do them (in bris) but have to get off my arse and do some investigation into if they will actually do them and whether or not its worthwhile cost wise.

Tell me where n il buy shares if you decide to use them

[4wd26]

the reco ones initially were pretty cheap- circa $160 each

this has since increased to over $200, you can get bursons cheaper

note that original reco was thought to be the way to go, until I started breaking shafts (not the bearing cage), this could have been pre stressed from previous adventures or just unlucky, but they cannot reco shafts- and you have no way of knowing if the shaft has been stressed

and we cannot tell if the shaft is ok for 1 day or 10 years

[Homer]

Yes I can supply the name of the place in Brisbane if required, but as others have said we have tended to go away from that option due to Bursons being cheaper (and apparently very close in quality) and as 26 pointed out, some are doing shafts etc.

The stack of CV's sat under my bench because I'm the only one who hasn't done one but I got lumbered with fixing them all thank you very much CD

Definitely get yourself a spare set and check out Fraz's "how to" replacement thread if you are going pretty hard core or have some that are clicking as when they go, you have to know what to do to get home again.

They are pretty simple to change - really, and having that safety net is a good thing.

I can't remember the last 'extreme' or at least pretty hard core trip I've been on that we haven't busted at least one...and I was on a trip where we did 7 CV's in a weekend if you need some encouragement as to why I'm suggesting the above...

A couple of times we've had them go just turning onto the track but suspect that was due to ride height (spacers - you know who you are ) and possible previous damage....bloody Victorians

[srb]

I found a place that can rebuild them just down the road... Turner Drive Shafts. I've done some sparky work for the owner a few years ago so know him quite well. Nice bloke. He said it would be around $200 each to recondition the original cv's. He can also obtain aftermarket cv's from the same supplier as Burson and Repco.. he would supply these a bit cheaper than Burson and Repco. I have ordered a set so will wait to see I guess.

[jop]

A couple of times we've had them go just turning onto the track but suspect that was due to ride height (spacers - you know who you are ) and possible previous damage....bloody Victorians

Didn't the ride height make it a royal pain in the coin to get the cv seated properly as well?