Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

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Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby a9x_hatch on Sun Feb 23, 2014 9:33 pm

Could anybody tell me whether the mn factory rear diff lock centre can be fitted to my glx housing, just unsure if they are the same size and same axle splines, any help would be awesome.
Last edited by NowForThe5th on Mon Feb 24, 2014 8:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Factory diff lock

Postby Robby on Mon Feb 24, 2014 6:54 am

G'day mate not sure if the factory diff lock can be fitted, but I tried to get it done and was told by the dealer that they will not fit a factory locker to the glx.
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Re: Factory diff lock

Postby oldplodder on Mon Feb 24, 2014 7:20 am

I have the factory diff lock on my 2012 MN GLX. Came from the factory that way.
Dealer had to do a bit of searching to source one in Australia at the time.
Otherwise it could have been 6 months wait.
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Re: Factory diff lock

Postby PhatVelvet on Mon Feb 24, 2014 7:44 am

When I hit them up about it they said they can't fit it after purchasing the vehicle, it has to be fitted from the factory. Probably just something they put in the too hard basket
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Re: Factory diff lock

Postby 4wd26 on Mon Feb 24, 2014 7:49 am

Could you check out the sticker on the rear diff- this will confirm ratio
not really sure of the models in the MN but some had 3.6 and others 3.9

the housings are the same, but I'd be unsure if the 3.6 crown and pinion would fit the 3.9 locked centre

if everything (yours and the doner diff/ vehicle) are 3.9 should be a "relatively" easy swap

if you want it to actuate like factory you will need additional things (ecu or a trip to the dealers) or you can just switch it like a ARB locker
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Re: Factory diff lock

Postby NowForThe5th on Mon Feb 24, 2014 7:54 am

This question has been asked a number of times.

The answers are:

Yes, it could be. The estimated cost would be around $7000

The reason is that the factory diff lock operates in conjunction with a number of other systems including ASC/TSC and is controlled through the ETACS-ECU.

That means lots of modifications to the GLX wiring loom, reprogramming of computers and, of course, the physical installation of the parts and their cost.

It just isn't worth it when you can get an aftermarket unit installed from a bit over $1K.

If you didn't want the diff lock to act exactly like the factory one (with interaction to ASC/TC) then it could be installed to work more like the ARB style, i.e.completely independent of other systems in the vehicle. That would lower the cost significantly, quite likely making installation of a second hand unit taken from a wreck a viable proposition. In terms of desirability this would position this alternative as possibly better than some of the aftermarket solutions, being cheaper and the diff having no significant reliability issues.
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Re: Factory diff lock

Postby oldplodder on Mon Feb 24, 2014 4:11 pm

NowForThe5th wrote:This question has been asked a number of times.

The answers are:

Yes, it could be. The estimated cost would be around $7000

The reason is that the factory diff lock operates in conjunction with a number of other systems including ASC/TSC and is controlled through the ETACS-ECU.

That means lots of modifications to the GLX wiring loom, reprogramming of computers and, of course, the physical installation of the parts and their cost.

It just isn't worth it when you can get an aftermarket unit installed from a bit over $1K.

If you didn't want the diff lock to act exactly like the factory one (with interaction to ASC/TC) then it could be installed to work more like the ARB style, i.e.completely independent of other systems in the vehicle. That would lower the cost significantly, quite likely making installation of a second hand unit taken from a wreck a viable proposition. In terms of desirability this would position this alternative as possibly better than some of the aftermarket solutions, being cheaper and the diff having no significant reliability issues.


Agree with you.

My factory diff lock has a different 4wd ECU. Also when the diff lock switch on the dash is engaged the traction control is turned off as well as ABS. The ASC switch I imagine would be the same. Plus the diff lock is setup to only engage in low range. So the wiring loom and under dahs gear would also need installing.
Then at the rear, the mods to the diff and the air compressor needs installing and connection, with the right sensors and switches to confirm the diff is properly engaged for the rest of the 4wd system to work properly. Why I debated waiting 6 months. Was going to be a negotiated $700.00 extra ex factory (with the side airbags), but I managed to get them to include it as part of the deal.
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby a9x_hatch on Mon Feb 24, 2014 6:18 pm

Hey guys thanks for the replies, my glx has the 3.917 ratio I must have been lucky, I can pick up the centre and pump cheap out of a write off and the plan was to hopefully do a basic on/ off wiring system so I can still run traction control with both lockers, the main thing I'm unsure of is whether the air lines go into the centre or the housing, could anybody confirm? And also being a low pressure locker could I use a tjm pro locker compressor with the factory unit if the electronics can't be bypassed?
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby ag9111 on Mon Feb 24, 2014 6:25 pm

You will need the whole diff casing as the air lines and actuator shaft have built in areas in the casing.'

Not sure of the pressure required to activate but it is not much
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby a9x_hatch on Mon Feb 24, 2014 6:42 pm

ag9111 wrote:You will need the whole diff casing as the air lines and actuator shaft have built in areas in the casing.'

Not sure of the pressure required to activate but it is not much


Thanks that helps heaps mate, but are you referring to the centre casing or the housing? and are the axles bearings and brakes interchangeable?
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby ag9111 on Mon Feb 24, 2014 6:47 pm

a9x_hatch wrote:
ag9111 wrote:You will need the whole diff casing as the air lines and actuator shaft have built in areas in the casing.'

Not sure of the pressure required to activate but it is not much


Thanks that helps heaps mate, but are you referring to the centre casing or the housing? and are the axles bearings and brakes interchangeable?


No idea, sorry
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby BillMcQuade on Tue Feb 25, 2014 3:46 am

a9x_hatch wrote:
ag9111 wrote:You will need the whole diff casing as the air lines and actuator shaft have built in areas in the casing.'

Not sure of the pressure required to activate but it is not much


Thanks that helps heaps mate, but are you referring to the centre casing or the housing? and are the axles bearings and brakes interchangeable?


The carrier must be changed ie; the whole lift out centre. The diff housing, brakes, etc can remain in place. If you get one from a wreck, make sure you give it a good clean, and grease the face of the crownwheel & pinion before inserting it. Personally, I'd run it from an aftermarket compressor, that way you can use the compressor for other things. You can always put an inline pressure reducer to the diff, if required.
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby stefanos on Tue Feb 25, 2014 1:11 pm

a9x_hatch wrote:
ag9111 wrote:You will need the whole diff casing as the air lines and actuator shaft have built in areas in the casing.'

Not sure of the pressure required to activate but it is not much


Thanks that helps heaps mate, but are you referring to the centre casing or the housing? and are the axles bearings and brakes interchangeable?


The pressure is 0,24-0,39 bar.....the axles bearings are the same,but the shafts have different length.....if you want the oem locker,go to the wreckers and buy the all rear axle with compressor....
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby a9x_hatch on Tue Feb 25, 2014 3:02 pm

stefanos wrote:
a9x_hatch wrote:
ag9111 wrote:You will need the whole diff casing as the air lines and actuator shaft have built in areas in the casing.'

Not sure of the pressure required to activate but it is not much


Thanks that helps heaps mate, but are you referring to the centre casing or the housing? and are the axles bearings and brakes interchangeable?


The pressure is 0,24-0,39 bar.....the axles bearings are the same,but the shafts have different length.....if you want the oem locker,go to the wreckers and buy the all rear axle with compressor....


Thank you that answers all my questions
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby ag9111 on Tue Feb 25, 2014 3:18 pm

Sorry
you need the whole diff housing, drum to drum as the centre pumpkin has castings where the air line and actuator moves. these castings aren't in the standard diff
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby stefanos on Tue Feb 25, 2014 3:48 pm

ag9111 wrote:Sorry
you need the whole diff housing, drum to drum as the centre pumpkin has castings where the air line and actuator moves. these castings aren't in the standard diff


Yeap!!!!..........and if you go for the whole axle......buy from ML 9.5"!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby ag9111 on Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:55 pm

Fraz has done a right up on installing an ML 9.5" into an MN

He installed an ML LSD into his MN
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby frosty's triton on Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:40 pm

I have installed a factory locker centre into the rear of mine and am running it off an air on board air system which has a cut out pressure of 150psi and cut in at 120psi with a 12 litre air tank under my tub. You can run a line off the tank to a regulator to run the locker at 5psi and a 3 way air valve with electric solenoid for actuation. Also the left hand axle is about an inch shorter so you need one of these as well.
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby motoz on Fri Apr 11, 2014 12:34 pm

frosty's triton wrote:I have installed a factory locker centre into the rear of mine and am running it off an air on board air system which has a cut out pressure of 150psi and cut in at 120psi with a 12 litre air tank under my tub. You can run a line off the tank to a regulator to run the locker at 5psi and a 3 way air valve with electric solenoid for actuation. Also the left hand axle is about an inch shorter so you need one of these as well.


Do you have any pics of the install at all? Any issues faced or was it a straight bolt up?
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby lb84 on Wed Sep 20, 2017 8:53 pm

After searching these forums a fair amount and reading any relevant threads i could find, i haven't found a firsthand account from someone who has successfully retrofitted a factory locker, completely.

Or have i missed/forgotten it?

The reason i ask... i need some encouragement; i have an ml wreck sitting in my backyard, complete with 4.3s and a factory locker. I'd like them to go into my mn glx and work as if factory. Without breaking the bank.

The front gears will either need to go into my non actuator housing, or better yet, get fitted to an e locker and then put in to my housing.

While the rear is apart getting a freshen up I'd like to put challenger rear discs on it too... using the correct locker housing and driveshafts of course...

But I'm getting ahead of myself. First I'd like someone to either say they have successfully installed the full factory locker setup or have someone point me in the direction of someone who has... this isn't urgent, I'd like it done before hopefully heading to the cape next sep/oct... fingers crossed.

Thanks in advance guys :)
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby explorer.dave on Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:18 pm

I think you will find the answer as to why it hasn't been done about 15 post's up. (now4the5th) explains it pretty clearly but basically the cost involved would be far greater than just going an E-Locker / ARB locker etc, in fact, for the outlay you could lock front and back and still have coin left over.
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby NowForThe5th on Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:05 pm

lb84, if you have an ML wreck with all the parts then half the battle is over. 4.3s would indicate that the wreck is a V6, so I'm not sure what the implications of that are in terms of the various ECUs and how compatilble they'd be with what you now have.

See this thread for 4.3 fitment in an MN with TC.

Has the diff lock swap been done? Somewhere in the back of my mind I think so, but can't place when or where or who. Maybe just my imagination?

Still, if you have the parts then why not be the crash teat dummy (as it were :lol: ) ?
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby lb84 on Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:11 pm

Except that is making a few assumptions, like that joe blogs is buying the parts new and paying someone to fit them. Labour isn't a huge concern in this case, and theoretically i have all the parts (complete wreck). It would mainly be finding which bits are missing from my loom and rectifying it.

And also, last time i got quoted on an aftermarket locker it was 1500 just for the part (tjm, e locker). If u went air (arb), u needed a compressor as well.
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby lb84 on Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:12 pm

Sorry now4the5th, was replying to explorer dave... it is in fact a v6, took a bit of time and luck to find it and a bit of effort to get it to me ;)
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Re: Retrofit Factory Rear Diff Lock

Postby BillMcQuade on Thu Sep 21, 2017 5:33 am

lb84 wrote:While the rear is apart getting a freshen up I'd like to put challenger rear discs on it too... using the correct locker housing and driveshafts of course...


This is an ongoing project with a few of us, and doesn't look to be as straightforward as you would think. You will also require a complete Challenger diff for all the parts, and custom/modified handbrake cables.

If you go down this path, please add your findings to the rear disc conversion thread.

viewtopic.php?f=92&t=18635&hilit=rear+disc#p485597
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