Oil Catch Can working

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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby Airved on Wed Mar 22, 2017 2:27 pm

Can I check what size hose others have been using for their catch cans and where they got theirs from? I think most cans have a 25mm inlet/outlet, but what size is the hose coming out of the crankcase? I've read 13mm and 16mm now. Do you use heat shrink, a clamp or some kind of reducer?
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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby coughy on Wed Mar 22, 2017 5:35 pm

original hose is 5/8 and u need silicone hose for the heat any enzed or pirket will have your hose and fittings needed i used this reducer from 25mm-16mm
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/25mm-16mm-1- ... xyVaBSuFLG
as my can is 25mm outlets and inlets
easy as
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Use this Second ;) ;)Then still no Joy Go Here
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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby Mayhem2015 on Sun May 14, 2017 10:49 pm

Sky Miner wrote:Not bad for a little catch can fit's nicely ;) a lot better than trying to squeeze that 5gallon drum of a provent 200 in there, even get to use the original hose as well
Click to view larger picture


I am looking at something similar. Terrain Tamer do one similar to this one i think. $300 worth though. Who/where did this one come from?
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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby Sky Miner on Sat May 20, 2017 3:27 pm

Did the bracket myself ;) n got it from here
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-MANN ... SwgZ1Xq7TP
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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby Mayhem2015 on Sun May 21, 2017 10:13 pm

suits engines under 2.0L?? i wonder why that ends up being max capacity? Good price and looks the same as Terrain Tamer. Are you concerned about capacity or do you think it relates ti capacity of drain pipe?
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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby beej75 on Mon May 22, 2017 3:24 pm

Mayhem2015 wrote:suits engines under 2.0L??

That link was to the 100.

I wonder if this 200 model is more suitable for the Triton's 2.4L (it doesn't seem to indicate engine size). This is just a guess ... i am only just learning about all this stuff.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252078676057 ... EBIDX%3AIT

Just curious if anyone has actual first hand (but obviously, off-the-record) commentary from an official Mitsubishi mechanic that these things are necessary? Forgive me if that's a stupid question ... I'm in the research stages of getting a new Triton during EOFY sales, and learning as much as I can about them.

I've read all the stories of blocked/gunked up intake manifolds, and the theories of how these catch cans and/or EGR blanks prevent it. I guess I'm just wondering why it's not more commonly reported (the blocked/gunked up intakes)? As in, is there a possibility all the reported cases are actually something else ... some other problem somewhere else that presents with these symptoms? You know ... the same way that eating too much beetroot can present the same symptoms as a serious bowel issue.

The other thought I had is whether anyone's thought of using one of these to inspect their intake manifold:
https://wiki.ezvid.com/best-inspection- ... or-android
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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby Sky Miner on Wed May 24, 2017 6:59 pm

Mayhem2015 wrote:suits engines under 2.0L?? i wonder why that ends up being max capacity? Good price and looks the same as Terrain Tamer. Are you concerned about capacity or do you think it relates ti capacity of drain pipe?

No I'm not worried about .4 of a ltr are you? ;) If you have any doubt you can go the 200 but Im happy with this one.
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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby Danos on Tue Oct 17, 2017 1:35 am

Hi all

I have the SPV EGR electrical mod and it sounds like a catch can is still a good idea to stop the oil vapor.

The provent has a paper filter, what sort of replacement frequency should I expect? How do you tell when it needs to be replaced?

Thanks
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Last edited by Danos on Tue Oct 17, 2017 8:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby Scale on Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:55 pm

I had a blanking plate for a short time then installed SPV electrickery and since had the 75,000 service completed, while they were doing the valves I asked if they could take some photo's of the manifolds and there was some slight carb build up so I installed a PROvent 200 so I know that it is right.
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Oil Catch Can

Postby Scraper on Sun Feb 04, 2018 10:16 pm

Hi All
I have own my 2012/13 Triton GLX-R since Demo.
It has not been plain sailing , I had a complete engine rebuild at 90,000 K'S.
It took me 5 months to get the dealer to do a complete test....any how as a retired bloke I am not able to update . So . Now it is out of warrenty , I am thinking of fitting a Oil catch Can , for a little insurance against clocking up inlets. Would like your thoughts. I did see that FREIGHTTRAIN has one fitted
Cheers :mrgreen:
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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby Jason91 on Mon Feb 05, 2018 6:57 am

I think it's a great idea and a great insurance policy, I know some members on here have the provent style catch can. I ended up going for a HPD unit at around 34,000km car now has 62,000 and no issues. I have a 2013 MN. Looking at possibly changing to a prevent in the future just for the ease of emptying but we'll see. Also need to remove the intercooler later on and give her a bath in Kero. But that's later on.
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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby jrs184 on Thu Jan 10, 2019 4:04 pm

sierra wrote:No problems with heat by mounting the can next to the turbo?
I thought the can needed to be relatively cool for the oil to condense efficiently?
:?


On my ML the can was my first mod. I had it on for 5 years and cleaned it regularly, it worked great catching oil soot and condensate. I mounted mine on the fuel filter side with long 16mm fuel hoses with copper reducers and hose clamps. I had the inlet slightly up hill all the way from the can and also uphill for the return line so the mist would always drain back to the can. I was a bit wary about mounting it near the turbo and the hottest part of the engine bay, it is much cooler over where the battery and filters are and the condensing is what you want the can to achieve so the cooler the better. I ran the drain hose from a tap under the can and tied the outlet to the chassis rail out of the way and make draining a breeze.The Provent has 2 pressure release valves in case you don't clean it and is a closed system so is legal...
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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby Enid_Triton on Tue Apr 14, 2020 6:03 pm

Old thread, and everyone has long moved on by the look of it, but it still has some great info & it sure got a real work out there for a couple of years, so thanks for that & I'm glad its still here.
I ended up fitting a Ryco RCC350 Catch Can on my Mn. I put it where the air intake tube used to go before I got the snorkel. It's a tight fit but it fits neatly & snugly without rubbing. I was going to get a pro vent 200 but I like the way that you can just just lift the Ryco catch can up & out of the way if you need to. They are very similar in performance from what I have read.
I also threw on a new "clean" Forefront intercooler just for good measure. Probably not as good as some of the $1500 ones but I don't need it to be, & for $350 bucks I reckon its a bargain. It made made a fairly big "noticeable" difference to the performance of the old girl. It still only has 40,00K's so she is just run in.
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Re: Oil Catch Can working

Postby Enid_Triton on Sun Apr 19, 2020 11:14 am

EDIT: To the above post. To anyone who is interested if you get the proper 16mm oil/heat resistant hose which is called "NITRILE", you can get the good stuff from Pirtek & it's made in Japan. Its not expensive either, but you can bend it up to 120degrees.
You just make up a spring out of mild steel tie-wire and wind it inside the tube, then over bend it into the shape you need. If you want a 90 degree then bend the tube to 120 degrees & tie it in place. Heat it with a heat-gun until it just starts to smoke, and then let it cool so it's cold to touch. Take off the wire and remove the spring by just yanking it out with a hook or pointy nose pliers & you will have a neat permanent kink free bend. Beats paying $30+ dollars for tiny 90/120 degree hose bends from Repco/Supacheap etc.
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