Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby ag9111 on Wed Feb 20, 2013 8:10 pm

If not, I'll take it. I will need another spare soon :D
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby snowman on Wed Feb 20, 2013 8:13 pm

ag9111 wrote:If not, I'll take it. I will need another spare soon :D


got no spares........ :shock: :shock: :roll: :lol:
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby ag9111 on Wed Feb 20, 2013 8:22 pm

Have one spare of each but will be swapping them in. Really pushed my luck with the clicking originals to date
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby trimal on Wed Feb 20, 2013 9:25 pm

Mattstruck wrote:
Engine output: 400Nm
Center diff lock: 50/50 split of power: 400 / 2 = 200Nm



Just tightening the wheel nut to spec gives you 150Nm at one wheel. :lol:

Any brainy inmates :ugeek: , please correct if this is stupid:

The 3.2 puts out 343 Nm @2000 RPM to the auto gear box. While holding the car with the brakes, this is multiplied by 1st gear ratio, low gear ratio and final gear ratio; 343 Nm x 2.842 x 1.9 x 4.1 = 7,600 Nm at the transfer box. This does not include the torque converter's multiplication factor, which doubles that.

7,600 Nm applied to 33" tyres should translate into a force of 18,000 N, or approx 4,000 pounds, driving the vehicle forward. That's about half of the pulling force of a 9000 lb winch.

As we are holding the car with the brakes, each brake is holding 1,900 Nm (probably not with the Triton brakes, but say …). On a vehicle with all open diffs, or one with electronic traction control, this should be the maximum torque at each wheel, less if a tyre is slipping.

On a car with full locks, with 3 wheels slipping and 1 wheel having _very_ good traction, that wheel should receive 7,600 Nm max from the engine. Shock load from spinning tyres and moving vehicle adds more destruction :twisted: .
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby Homer on Thu Feb 21, 2013 6:25 am

^^^ Looks like Schmucks made himself a second log in :lol: :P

kenworthitman wrote:Alright, to clear a few things up, I have NO performance mods. i always try to take things steady, and am quick to get off the power and back up and try a different line when traction is lost. It is always the passenger CV that goes so i will definitely look into this possible arb locker issue. How can i check this out myself?


Yeah mate that's why I posted a list of things that often kill a CV so you could get a process of elimination. I had a feeling it could be passo CV issues. I didn't mention having a bigger than 2" lift to that list either just in case that may be relevant?

Maybe someone with more experience can join in here but unfortunately the only way I've seen to tell if it has issues is when fitting the CV into the diff. Generally - and I mean generally - once you line up the spline the CV circlip locates with just a push or a light hit with a rubber mallet.
The ones that have the issues (again only from what I've seen) you spend some time bashing and pushing to get the circlip to pop in....often (with the lokka) you have to squeeze the circlip closed before inserting the CV or it simply wont locate.

The problem is you can still re-assemble the CV and wheel etc with the circlip not located correctly so it isn't as difficult to get wrong as you'd imagine. Especially if you hadn't done too many before...and after ten minutes bashing at it you can convince yourself it's in - or break the circlip inside the housing and it then goes in - and then you have issues.

In the case of the ARB issue after an hour or two we ended up removing the circlip to see how that would work....it doesn't :oops: :oops: :( :(


snowman wrote:homer and CD aside there probably are not too many here i have not been with who have not hit something at full noise. :lol: :lol: :lol:

we learned that the hard way. :roll:


In all fairness there's not too many that had a front locker from the get go either :) most people are coming from the RL hill climbing technique :P :twisted:
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby snowman on Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:54 am

Homer wrote:
snowman wrote:homer and CD aside there probably are not too many here i have not been with who have not hit something at full noise. :lol: :lol: :lol:

we learned that the hard way. :roll:


In all fairness there's not too many that had a front locker from the get go either :) most people are coming from the RL hill climbing technique :P :twisted:


CD is twin locked and careful. you are just a soft ****, that is what i was really saying in a compliment Putz.

oh and YES the front locker DOES provide better climbing ability. But it can promote additional CV breakage if used incorrectly. For example on my 'ant hill' it would NOT have broken if my front diff was open - drive would have gone straight to the drivers side wheel, but i probably would not have been looking at the sky with my front without it on.
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby Mattstruck on Thu Feb 21, 2013 9:10 pm

I'm confusssed :roll:
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby fraz91 on Fri Feb 22, 2013 7:49 am

I think the main reason garths CV's have lasted better than mine is because of the rear locker. I don't know of anyone who has pushed the tc alone as far as I have before engaging a locker of some sort. I know I've gotten my car places I should never be, but it hasn't let me down yet. That's not to say I'm avoiding getting a locker, just shifting priorities until I can afford it. ;)

See the build up of my old Triton here.
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby Tony on Fri Feb 22, 2013 8:32 am

There may be one other unlocked MN that gets where it shouldn't on TC. :roll: :lol:

I think Garth may have a little more mechanical sympathy than some of us, also, I often wonder if the CV angles due to ride heights and wheel direction could be a contributing factor with some failures.

There wouldn't be many IFS set ups out there that would withstand the toque multiplication associated with a heavy right foot, low range, low gear and bigger tyres with lockers thrown in.
If you want to bash & crash, leave the locker off. locker on, slow and easy is the only way. With my Land Rover, some of you have seen it, it now has duel lockers... I find the front locker is best used as an emergency traction aid only as quickly turns things to cheese with 35's. :roll: :lol: If I lift one wheel, put 100% load on the opposite side... BANG! Is particularly bad for this if backing out of a situation I should never have got in the first place. :roll:

Back to Tritons, I've decided I will never lock mine, I quite enjoy the challenge of the woeful TC set up for an all rounder. 8-)
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby snowman on Mon Mar 11, 2013 6:55 pm

fraz91 wrote:10. Look through to where the CV enters the front axle housing and identify the four bolts on the flange holding the CV to the axle housing. Using a number of extensions to get the reach, undo these bolts with your 14mm socket. If you have access to an air rattle gun or 18volt battery rattle gun use this as it is a nut and bolt and the speed may see the nut come off without spinning the bolt head on the other side (for this reason I would spray the nuts -the side facing you - with WD40 etc and have a beer in the hope they will come off without spinning the whole bolt). If not an angled pry bar or 14mm open-ended spanner is needed to "reach around" and hold the bolt head. Care must be taken not to damage the threads or nuts as the bolts are loose but “trapped” and can’t be fully removed so if a nut does not go back on to secure the bolt, it will slip backwards until it catches on the larger axle bolts behind here (the non rusty ones) and the wheel will not turn or will shear off when the wheel turns.
Removing the (4) 14mm Nuts using an 18V Rattle Gun:
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You'll notice that there is a spanner holding the control arm up. I'd actually gotten it stuck there when I adjusted the UCA so it was further out of the way. This isn't necessary, more of a "I had the time and tools to do so easily"



i want to add a small comment here. the photo shows undoing of the 4 nuts on the end plate. it is incredibly difficult to access one of the four if it is left in the 10-11 o'clock position. it is actually worth looking at this location when you have your wheel off next and if at all possible try and leave the car with these nuts as accessible as possible. the one in the photo is at approximately the 12 o'clock position so clearly the next one in an anti-clockwise direction is at about 9 o'clock. these are the best positions to access them.
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby MrPlow on Tue Mar 12, 2013 4:14 pm

I will be doing my first change out on Thursday guys :oops: . Replacing the factory passo CV with a Bursons CV cause Mitsu are just asking too much :roll: . Will be using Homers PDF so hopefully all goes smoothly :?
Will post up how it went when its done.

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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby micv on Wed Nov 27, 2013 1:17 pm

I'm doing some research on CV replacement alternatives (I have ordered a front locker).

I note that they are available ex china at a fraction of the of those from Repco etc, though remains to be seen if feasible with the cost of shipping.

It is also possible to get just a kit for replacing the end baring/cup for a fraction of the cost again and a fraction of the shipping cost.

i.e. instead of replacing teh whole shaft you just replace the end baring/cup/boot and repack with grease...making the procedure cheaper and easier. These end barings I think are same on both sides so only have to carry one type.

I am supposing therefore that the damage nearly always occurs at the end baring closest the wheel.

Anyone that has suffered a broken CV could you describe the damage? was it anywhere other that the joint at the wheel side?
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby 4wd26 on Wed Nov 27, 2013 1:50 pm

I have broken the shaft between the bearing cups on around 3 different cv's
I have also broken driver and passenger side shafts.

might be a function of the auto gearbox applying torque twist rather than shock loading from lifting wheels

murphy's law would no doubt come into play here- you get the cups and you will break a shaft, get a full cv and you will do a cup.....

I know what I would rather have in my spares, that would be the full cv for both sides- covering all bases

wheeling to the extremes of breaking things comes at a cost :oops:
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby borngeek on Wed Nov 27, 2013 2:00 pm

Yeah broken both sides bearings (DOJ kit to rebuild) and the shafts and also the cups... lots of times. a rebuild kit wont help you if you do this:
IMG_3895R.jpg

edit, or this:
Click to view larger picture
I describe the damage. Hectic. :lol:

//Do not fancy rebuilding one on the side of a track either. :shock: Just buy a pair of burson's as spares. ;) You are saving peanuts, and setting yourself up for pain. :)
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby Homer on Wed Nov 27, 2013 2:02 pm

There is also a variance in quality of parts.

I know a supplier that reconditions CV's who said that some of his CV's are only good for on road loads. They are possibly the cheap parts?
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby micv on Wed Nov 27, 2013 3:21 pm

Thanks for the feedback. Looks like they break all over the place. FYI the China CVs are only US35 each and joints only US15 in 1-off quantities. Still waiting to find out shipping costs.

If they were any good then a group buy for higher quantity by surface transport could be attractive.
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby Homer on Wed Nov 27, 2013 4:42 pm

Again, they vary in quality greatly. Be wary if you haven't physically compared them.

Remember most - or nearly all CV's are designed for road cars ;) this is from a CV reconditioning business.
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby a9x_hatch on Wed Jan 29, 2014 3:58 pm

Has anybody had any problems getting the passenger side cv to slide back in, I've been trying for 2 hours with no luck, and now I've knocked the little metal seal out :evil: Any ideas guys
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby snowman on Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:11 pm

a9x_hatch wrote:Has anybody had any problems getting the passenger side cv to slide back in, I've been trying for 2 hours with no luck, and now I've knocked the little metal seal out :evil: Any ideas guys


your shed shows a lock rite locka diff.

there has been problems with a batch of ARB that did not have enough bevel on the entry point. not sure about your aftermarket diff though but it is possible it is a similar situation.
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby a9x_hatch on Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:21 pm

Yeah it has a locka but the diff was rebuilt only a month ago, and the cvs had been removed and reinstalled, so I can't understand why they won't go back in , I did notice a few burrs just inside the seal though, they may have really forced it . I might go see the mechanic who did it tomorrow
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby salt36 on Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:30 pm

As above the Lokka has very little bevel on the inner spline.

To get the circlip to go in takes patience and an extreme amount of luck, the stars need to align so it seems... :roll:

To help I put some grease in the groove that holds the circlip and take a lot of care to align the circlip evenly on the CV spline.


You need to be very careful when inserting the spline now as if you dislodge the circlip then take it out and repeat the above...

Try the CV without the circlip and make sure there is no other problem preventing the installation.

It does take some practice, I can usually get it in three or four goes now, as above the critical part is the circlip being evenly spaced on the CV spline. A good shove should see it home.

One other thing to check ( and double check) is that the inner spline is matched to the outer spline.
What I mean is that inside the diff part of your Lokka there is two seperate pieces that receive the CV spline, they both need to be lined up perfectly, a good torch shining in there will reveal it.
The circlip needs to go past both splines to seat the CV properly.
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby borngeek on Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:35 pm

Just grease it up, align it properly in there. Lean hard into the CV (so the CV bearings compress) and give it one good whack with a big rubber mallet.
Repeat process (starting from scratch, so regrease, align and recompress CV) if you do not get it first go.

It will go back in no probs if you do above. ;)
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby a9x_hatch on Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:37 pm

Thanks I will try that, the circlip hasn't come off the shaft. There is a little metal axle seal or something that sits inside the diff that has slipped out and don't know which groove it goes into as there are a few. Does it sit closer to the inside or outSide of the diff?
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby salt36 on Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:49 pm

I didn't have time to try and look for a photo but the drawing below shows the CV/axle seal circled in red.

There is a metal spring like coil inside the seal that can come loose. If it has I would replace the seal as they can and do leak.

There should not be anything else there that can come loose...


Capture.JPG diff seal.JPG
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Re: Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

Postby mattz on Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:10 pm

Where are you located A9x? If you need a seal urgently......I have a spare one. The exact same thing happened to me. From memory,the seal was reasonably priced. That's why I bought a spare to carry.

Another tip. :roll:
Remove the circlip and give it a squeeze with pliers to close the gap so it fits tighter on the shaft.
To make sure you haven't squeezed it to much:......give the shaft a tug and make sure it shows some resistance,once it's been reinstalled.
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