Triton CV Joints - removal and re-assembly

[fridgie]

Was there a lot of fish porn?

Real life Troy Mclure

[Mooons]

I pm'd him a while ago

Are you sure you sent it to HIM.

iPhone & fat fingers will always be my downfall

[Homer]

Was there a lot of fish porn?

Yes but there was a juvenile involved which made it particularly distressing



Hey Secondeye, they will be back up soonish.
TBH if people cut and paste the directions now without the pics it will be a good "how to" to keep in the glovebox.
Once you start doing it and the parts are there in front of you, the instructions are very accurate and self explanatory and you wont need pics

It just gives you a how to on which bits to remove first etc...

[Mattstruck]

Its a pretty simple job but no one has told me what the $ cost is to join this elite club

Anyone

[al coholic]

Its a pretty simple job but no one has told me what the $ cost is to join this elite club

Anyone

A replacement CV?? About $1000 from Mitsu

Better option is to grab a reconditioned one or one from a wreckers. Repco now have cheaper replacement ones.....but i dont think these have been tried and tested yet. (Soon tho )

[Mattstruck]

Cheers Al.
$1000 seems a BIT excessive for a sacrifical part... Might ring Repco then. I remember reading something, somewhere about this.... there was a part number too... which thread and where??? I think Ultimate was involved. Cant remember
Any links?
What are the repco ones worth?

Not sure mine can be fixed as the hub with the abs teeth has blown apart so that and the CV joint would need replacing...

[fraz91]

Matt, your CV has blown the same way mine did. A new one, like alco said, is around $1000 from mitsu. So long as the ABS ring is still in tact, you can leave that cup-piece in and keep your ABS working, just drive in 2wd.

One thing I wanted to add to this is that if the CV is completely stuffed and you don't have a spare on hand, you CAN cut the CV boots open and remove the bearings. There's a small cir-clip that holds the bearings in place, and this is easily removed with a flat screwdriver or needle-nose pliers. The bearings will stay in place once removed from the cup, so no need to worry there. Just cover the bearings and the cup's up and seal them. Yes, it means destroying the boot(s), but it also means that there's no need to pull the splines out of the diff or hub. Makes the CV removal process a lot simpler and quicker, as well as not needing to open the diff up when the spline is pulled out.

When I did mine, I pulled the passenger spline out of the diff and have hence stuffed the seal that the spline goes through. Now need a new one (mitsu again) and am not looking forward to replacing it at home (not keen on driving the car without oil in the front diff).

[Mattstruck]

Good point Fraz. Thought of that but quickly dispelled further investigation as I was lying in the dirt in 41 degree heat.
Funny how that happens

What I did to limp home and then limp back to melb (probally limped total 120kms) was pull the broken inners out of the boot. Disengage 4x4. Pull the CV back and down to the trailing edge of the lower control arm, then tie it around the shaft, under the control arm it was sitting on and tie a knot around the steering rod arm.
This gave me full turning to the right and 3/4 turning to the left. Any further and it hits the brake caliper.
Drove at max 80kms with no probs.

[Mooons]

And flicked axle grease on all the pedestrians

[Cowboy Dave]

Fraz what was the go with the Repco CV? Were you able to make it fit the MN or was it ML only as Repco said?

[Mattstruck]

And whats the quality like? Pricing etc?

[TUFF TROOP]

I run Repco driveshafts in my twin locked ml and have no dramas with them

[fridgie]

I believe there may be an issue with Repco cv's and mn's.... Something about the abs ring

[fraz91]

We test fitted the Repco driveshaft on my vehicle and the ABS ring didn't seem to fit. It fouled on the sensor, and was running VERY close to a couple of the bolts that hold the hub in place. From memory the Repco ABS ring was about 5mm larger in diameter. We did look at swapping the ABS rings over, however the wheel-end cup on the Repco shaft is considerably bigger, and we weren't sure if it was even going to fit on.

[ultimate]

REPCO do state that their CVs are for the ML only and that they do not fit the MN. All the guys from Mitsubishi have said their part numbers are the same for both vehicles which makes it a bit confusing. We wanted to test the REPCO ones in house before mentioning on the forum and I'm glad we did. The CVs are a fair bit different to the OE ones and I am even doubtful they will fit all MLs. There will be another test fit on an ML with Super Select at the end of January. This will hopefully prove if they are alright to run on all MLs or if they are the wrong size for certain vehicles (e.g. ones with super select).

Here are some photos of the REPCO and genuine CVs.




It's a bit hard to see, but the REPCO CVs run a thin ABS ring where as the OE one is more like a gear. The size of the ABS ring is the real drama as it fouls on the ABS sensor (on Fraz's vehicle) and doesn't leave much clearance between the ABS ring and hub bolts. Hopefully it's not the same on all Tritons as these are considerably cheaper and make good emergency spares. We will be selling them for $200 each if everything gets sorted out.

It's important to note though that the genuine CVs are better quality and I would look at these for long term use. The ideal situation would be to keep the REPCO ones as spares (if you are doing hardcore work) and get the originals rebuilt if one breaks.

[TUFF TROOP]

To add to my post , I've been running the Repco ones for fair while now. And have had no issues , high country and heaps of dune work , heaps of mud and I don't drive it sedately at all! They're still ok after around 15k .. Well worth it

[ultimate]

Hopefully these do turn out to be a viable option. they are a lot cheaper and come with a 5 year/100,000km warranty I know they work alright on the Hiluxs but there are also considerable differences there. The repco Hilux CVs are 10mm shorter than genuine and have less ribs on the boots. This means at full droop, the boot is tight and goes in on it self.




Knowing how the automotive industry works in catering for specific vehicles, I am bit concerned that the Hilux ones are not closer to the originals. The hilux is a more popular vehicle in terms of after market parts and in my opinion they missed the mark. If they didn't bother getting that right, how close are the Triton ones?

[josh_cod]

Have you tried getting them replaced under warranty? One of our work tritons did a CV and the local dealer replaced it under warranty no questions asked.

[josh_cod]

You would still need to purchase one as a spare though. Can the old busted ones be repaired and then used as a spare if needed?

[ultimate]

The old ones can be repaired in a most cases. I have also heard recently that Mitsubishi is changing it's policy in regards to CVs. They will exchange noisy ones under warranty but not broken ones. If you hear any clicking, get them to change it straight away.

[Mattstruck]

The old ones can be repaired in a most cases. I have also heard recently that Mitsubishi is changing it's policy in regards to CVs. They will exchange noisy ones under warranty but not broken ones. If you hear any clicking, get them to change it straight away.

So whats the 10yr warranty worth then

[daryn]

....is changing...hurry up now.

Mine was covered under warranty Matt, so have many others, you have purchased a 4wd, it is advertised as such through TV commercials and magazines. Triton Tough ????, this is how you now manage it with your dealer.

[Mooons]

The old ones can be repaired in a most cases. I have also heard recently that Mitsubishi is changing it's policy in regards to CVs. They will exchange noisy ones under warranty but not broken ones. If you hear any clicking, get them to change it straight away.

So whats the 10yr warranty worth then

Nothing the way you drive

[Mattstruck]

Might be worth noting in the first thread Homer, that a 1 - 1/4 " socket fits beautifully for those of us with older socket sets (bought it when I was 18 to fix my HT Holden) as well as 32mm

[Mattstruck]

REPCO do state that their CVs are for the ML only and that they do not fit the MN. All the guys from Mitsubishi have said their part numbers are the same for both vehicles which makes it a bit confusing. We wanted to test the REPCO ones in house before mentioning on the forum and I'm glad we did. The CVs are a fair bit different to the OE ones and I am even doubtful they will fit all MLs. There will be another test fit on an ML with Super Select at the end of January. This will hopefully prove if they are alright to run on all MLs or if they are the wrong size for certain vehicles (e.g. ones with super select).

Here are some photos of the REPCO and genuine CVs.




It's a bit hard to see, but the REPCO CVs run a thin ABS ring where as the OE one is more like a gear. The size of the ABS ring is the real drama as it fouls on the ABS sensor (on Fraz's vehicle) and doesn't leave much clearance between the ABS ring and hub bolts. Hopefully it's not the same on all Tritons as these are considerably cheaper and make good emergency spares. We will be selling them for $200 each if everything gets sorted out.

It's important to note though that the genuine CVs are better quality and I would look at these for long term use. The ideal situation would be to keep the REPCO ones as spares (if you are doing hardcore work) and get the originals rebuilt if one breaks.

Hey Brendan, Just wondering mate

I recieved a second hand CV today from a QLD wreckers and the ABS ring was missing. I managed to tap mine off with a soft faced hammer reasonably easily and then install it the same way on the good CV.

Wonder if this is an option to allow Repco CVs to fit MN/MLs etc with ABS.
The mounting for the ABS ring on the Mitsu CVs is 84mm diameter. Is this the same on the Repco units?

Might be the solution
Pull off bike gear and put on ABS ring
What do you think?