wheel bearings

[al coholic]

I heard my name mentioned

Correct guys, you do need heat and a press. This is not a job for the home mechanic in the shed.
(Although tony tried to give me all sorts of fixes with hardwood, pipes and big hammers we all know he is a maniac though )

2hrs per side sounds about right from my experience with mine (I did all the stripping down and rebuilding, it was just getting the bearing off which was a pain )

Fraz and I didn't replace because the bearings were shot however, mine was from damage to the brake drum and Fraz swapped his diff ratio's out. To be honest, haven't heard of anyone doing rear bearings yet??

[ag9111]

Alco also had some issues when he had one of his wheels .....ummm fall off.

That's delicate

115,000km and the bearings are shot when mostly highway

I'd be asking for a second opinion. That doesn't sound right

[Cowboy Dave]

Alco and Fraz - phew. That's exactly who I thought it was but I had a sudden crisis of confidence in my memory this morning.

[ag9111]

Alco and Fraz - phew. That's exactly who I thought it was but I had a sudden crisis of confidence in my memory this morning.

Not like you to start doubting yourself Dave

Youv'e been doing too much of that lately. Time you gave up your day job

[Cowboy Dave]

Old timers disease? Need more sleep I reckon. That or my brain is full up. Wish I could choose what to forget...

[ag9111]

Easy on the old timers bit. I'm older than you.

At least I have a medical condition for my memory loss

[abaser666]

Thanks for the quick replies lads.

I'll be looking for a second opinion for sure, and i'm going to have a bit of a look at them myself to see how much play there is.

Been looking up prices for the bearings themselves - about a hungie each by the looks. that makes my mechanic chargout rates at about $150/hr...man. im in the wrong business.

I'll let you know how I go.

Cheers
a666

[al coholic]

Thought these parts numbers may be useful for someone in the future

[a9x_hatch]

Does anybody know how to remove the front bearing hub from the stub axle on a mn?

I'm putting in a new hub and bearings from repo due to the old ones failing, but can't get the hub off the stub axle it's like thing is pressed on somehow, I've removed the 4 17mm bolts from the back is there any others I can't see

Any tricks to get this thing off?

[a9x_hatch]

Does anybody know how to remove the front bearing hub from the stub axle on a mn?

I'm putting in a new hub and bearings from repo due to the old ones failing, but can't get the hub off the stub axle it's like thing is pressed on somehow, I've removed the 4 17mm bolts from the back is there any others I can't see

Any tricks to get this thing off?

Anybody? This has got me stumped

[borngeek]

Remove the centre cap, remove split pin, 32mm socket take that off. (rattle gun)
drop calliper off the brake rotor.. two bolts. remove rotor.
take 4 bolts you mention out.
tap it off
reverse...

[ag9111]

My understanding is that the bearing cant be replaced. A whole new hub is required.

PM Fridgie, he has replaced multiple hub due to mud ingress. He seems to be the expert

[fraz91]

Depending on the use, you may need to get a chisel or pry-bar in between the hub amd stub axle. Mine were pretty well seized in there, took about an hour to remove each one.

[a9x_hatch]

Depending on the use, you may need to get a chisel or pry-bar in between the hub amd stub axle. Mine were pretty well seized in there, took about an hour to remove each one.

Cheers for the reply i tried that without much luck, I've even got a puller on it ATM holding onto the stub and pushing it from the back and still won't move.
Is there any thing that could break if I really start smashing this thing, I think it's time for a bigger hammer

[a9x_hatch]

Depending on the use, you may need to get a chisel or pry-bar in between the hub amd stub axle. Mine were pretty well seized in there, took about an hour to remove each one.

Cheers for the reply i tried that without much luck, I've even got a puller on it ATM holding onto the stub and pushing it from the back and still won't move.
Is there any thing that could break if I really start smashing this thing, I think it's time for a bigger hammer

Ok so I've come to the conclusion this hub is not coming out, I've been using the puller while using a chisel between the stub and hub, still no luck
So the next question is if I fully remove the stub axle and take it to an engineering shop could they use a machine press to get it out?

[msrlo]

normal bearings have your bearings and then the bearing cups but the front hubs don't have bearing cups so if your bearings mark the hub then you can't just replace the bearings. I just did mine and you can buy the bearings from a bearing shop for about $45, but if it's scored the hub then it's no good. Burson's wanted $220 for a bearing kit or $219 for a bearing hub kit which is new bearings hub complete, just un bolt the old one and bolt the new one, bearings are packed with grease and ready to go. Repco had the hub kit for $184 or genuine are $450

[a9x_hatch]

normal bearings have your bearings and then the bearing cups but the front hubs don't have bearing cups so if your bearings mark the hub then you can't just replace the bearings. I just did mine and you can buy the bearings from a bearing shop for about $45, but if it's scored the hub then it's no good. Burson's wanted $220 for a bearing kit or $219 for a bearing hub kit which is new bearings hub complete, just un bolt the old one and bolt the new one, bearings are packed with grease and ready to go. Repco had the hub kit for $184 or genuine are $450

Thanks for the info, I picked up a complete hub from repco for $191, it's a a bit more up here due to the mining tax The problem I'm having is removing the hub, nothing worked for me, not even an oxy to heat up the stub and the puller and chisel at the same time. I went and saw mitsubishi today who said they use a machine press and agreed to remove the old hub and press in the new repco one For me for free tomorrow, and so they should considering the Titan isn't even 2 years old yet. I do give it a very hard time though

So just a little info for the forum, the hub will usually come out with heat, puller and chisel/pry bar but in extreme cases like mine you will need a press. My bearings totally collapsed though probably due to or had something to do with driving the car 60kms on a rough track with a blown cv. Probably not the smartest thing to do, but didn't have a choice

[Duck]

Howdy all, I have just replaced my bearings on my camp trailer, being the first time I have done this I used the old trusty you tube. The first side was a breeze, took in the old bearings Ford I now know & got a kit & finished the first wheel was beautiful.
The other side took me 3 hours to get the hub off Then when i replaced the bearings I had to tighten the nut to get the hub to seat far enough back to feel like the back bearing was seated, but this wheel does not spin as freely as the other side.
I am wondering if I will flog the bearing out as its too tight ?
Is it worth me getting the bearing redone professionally ? Any advice on why one wheel seems to be a much tighter fit on the bearings than the other & weather I should be concerned.

[insomniac92]

Howdy all, I have just replaced my bearings on my camp trailer, being the first time I have done this I used the old trusty you tube. The first side was a breeze, took in the old bearings Ford I now know & got a kit & finished the first wheel was beautiful.
The other side took me 3 hours to get the hub off Then when i replaced the bearings I had to tighten the nut to get the hub to seat far enough back to feel like the back bearing was seated, but this wheel does not spin as freely as the other side.
I am wondering if I will flog the bearing out as its too tight ?
Is it worth me getting the bearing redone professionally ? Any advice on why one wheel seems to be a much tighter fit on the bearings than the other & weather I should be concerned.

Yeah, I'd be a little concerned with the tight side. Are you sure the hub was on the axel fully before you put the bearings in?
It sounds like tightening the nut may have pushed the hub further onto the axel (which is where it should be). What you should do now is just back the nut off half a turn or more, it shouldn't be tight on the bearing (make sure there is no play though when you back it off). Usually, just tighten it until it grips, then back it off half a turn. I'm only speaking from experience with boat trailers, but sometimes it can be a real bugger to get the hub on far enough on the axel because of the rubber seal. You'll think its on, but then as you saw, the back bearing doesn't seat properly. Takes a fair bit of pushing and turning, but you should feel it go eventually. Hope that makes sense!

[Duck]

Thanks insomniac, that is the problem, now even when I loosen the nut it does not spin as freely as the other side. Don't get me wrong still spins better then it did but nothing like the other side. Might do a close camp trip trip to suss it out before going bush.

[msrlo]

maybe the other side is not on properly, you can get it up tight or so you think but if you but if that seal doesn't slip on the axle all the way as soon as you start travelling the hub will be loose

[insomniac92]

Thanks insomniac, that is the problem, now even when I loosen the nut it does not spin as freely as the other side. Don't get me wrong still spins better then it did but nothing like the other side. Might do a close camp trip trip to suss it out before going bush.

It's up to you but unfortunately I think the best option is to redo this side. It shouldn't be too much work. As long as you haven't crushed the bearing from over tightening it, it should just be a case of pulling the hub back off, remove and re-seat the bearings (front and back) and then put it back on. You shouldn't have to repack the bearings, but you'll probably find that by doing this and making sure the hub is all the way on the axel before you put the nut on, it will spin freely. As suggested above I'd also do a visual of the other side just to make sure that the hub is seated all the way on the axel. I know it's a bit of a PITA, but it's better to have peace of mind knowing they're all good rather than having dramas on the road. It gets easier once you've done them a few times and it's much cheaper than going to a mechanic to get them done.
Cheers

[kommodore]

Hi everyone, just want to share my front wheel hub replacement i did just a few days agó.

I busted the hub bearings of the passenger side front wheel. i pull out the whole knucle, and remove the remaining bearing parts. i took a look at one bearings outer ring, and it was a KOYO bearing (Koyo being the brand) and i though "well i will buy this two bearings and rebuild the hub". the part number on the bearing was 2DUFO5ON-7. i went to the stealer, ask for the bearings, and they told me they sold the entire hub assembly, and showed to me. They bring me the hub, wich came in a mitsubishi cardboard box, i open the box, and the hub was in a plastic bag, but i was able to watch the bearing outer ring, and it was the same KOYO 2DUFO5ON-7 bearing. They want to charge me about $440 USD for it. Then i went to a bearing shop, ask for the koyo part number and they had the same koyo 2DUFO5ON-7 hub, at $240 USD, then i went to another bearing shop, and again, they had the same 2DUFO5ON-7 koyo hub, at only $96 USD, so i bought that one. Allways check what the stealers are selling to you. I dont know if mitsubishi fabricates their own bearings, i dont think so. i think they have them made by bearing companies such as koyo, wich is a big japanese bearing manufacturer.

thats, all, i hope it can be usefull for someone.

Bye.

[YogiOz]

I got the wheel bearings (and only the bearings) from Capital Bearing Supplies in Fyshwick ACT for $44. As it turned out I need the full hub assembly and they ordered one in overnight (plus one for their stock) for $145.

Bloody good service!

Took nearly 3 hours to get the buggered one off, thanks to BIL, who has the know how and tools. 40 mins max to put the new one on...

[Mashine13]

Hi all,

I've just got my passengers front hub replaced due to the old one starting to rumble around corners. After putting the new one on it seems I have more movement/wobbling than when the old one was on!

When I wobble it and look behind the brake disk where the hub mounts to the knuckle, it definitely moves in & out/up & down. Same where the CV goes into the back of the hub, probly 1-2mm, definitely not gunna drive it.

I got the hub pressed out & pressed into the knuckle at pedders and did the rest myself. The axle nut and 4 hub nuts are tight as tight.

Have I been sold a dud hub assembly ($110 eBay job)? Could it have been damaged on install? Anything I could've missed?

Matt