wheel bearings

[borngeek]

Hi All,

Did a cursory search and seems this has not been discussed yet.

Yesterday while changing over to my mud set I notice play in the passenger front wheel... A decent amount of play. Only able to wobble entire wheel with a big heavy tire on for leverage. Very hard to test with just the rotor as it floats naturally, you need to have tyre tensioned against axle.

At first it was possible that the stub axle required tension as I have had a front locker installed (possible scenario)
Took off cap, split pin and applied 32mm socket on extension and a long steel tube for leverage...
Nope it was tight.

So I have stuffed a bearing.

I could/might try the warranty line (only 60,000K on clock) but likely just replace with aftermarket which is almost HALF the price of Mits genuine (yes half!)

Another thing discovered is they are NOT REBUILD-ABLE. Sealed unit sold as a stub by MMAL at exorbitant value. Amazing how expensive genuine parts are for these vehicles.

Next time you have your car up on jacks give your wheel bearings a test just to make sure. Especially if you discover a slight vibration through the front end on highway runs... I have that symptom.


NOTE: Not a panic item, I admittedly submit the vehicle to 'rigorous testing'


EDIT: video of movement

[NTBB]

No rumble to let you know it was on the way out geek...

[aiden71]

I just had a rear replaced at 20 thousand, didnt even bother with the bullshit of the dealer.
Pedders did it for $500 but at least I know it was done properly

[jop]

Rear locker FTW

[ag9111]

NOTE: Not a panic item, I admittedly submit the vehicle to OVER 'rigorous testing'

[ultimate]

It's the front passenger side which has gone on Geek's. Mitsubishi say special order, 5 week wait and $280 Trade.

Aftermarket sealed hubs are available for the front for $150 brand new. 2nd hand from the wreckers with unknown kms was $185 It pays to ring around before you buy.

[Kegsy]

Sure it's a bearing and not a balljoint?

Flexing the wheel like that can show play in a balljoint also. Might be worth a check to be 100% sure considering the cost.

[borngeek]

Sure it's a bearing and not a balljoint?

Flexing the wheel like that can show play in a balljoint also. Might be worth a check to be 100% sure considering the cost.

What you talking about? Did not think this existed on a IFS vehicle
To diagnose, I left the cap off and tacked on the front tyre and front hub wobbled around the nut of the drive shaft/CV...

What ever is the dearest part is the part I have stuffed, no question about that

In image below, "17" is the culprit IMO.

blownapart (Small).JPG

//[censored] Garth! (Jop I just plain ignore, pussay!)

[ag9111]

correct though

Better order parts 19 and 21 whilst your at it.

[borngeek]

correct though

Better order parts 19 and 21 whilst your at it.

I have spare ones of those.... smartarse

No rumble to let you know it was on the way out geek...

Mate, it is quiet as a church mouse. Even when rocking it around. It has enough movement to move the caliper and everything. It is a proper failure with little symptoms. I do detect a slight front wheel vibration at about 100km/h+
Will be interesting to have a good look at it when replaced. It has also started to wear the outer edge of the brake rotor. So it has been like that for a while

[borngeek]

It's the front passenger side which has gone on Geek's. Mitsubishi say special order, 5 week wait and $280 Trade.

Aftermarket sealed hubs are available for the front for $150 brand new. 2nd hand from the wreckers with unknown kms was $185 It pays to ring around before you buy.

Big thanks to Brendan and Ultimate for being my 'phone a friend' although I think I should be charging them for entertainment
Will be fitting one of these aftermarket units. Yeah I could chase down warranty but my time is worth more than the hassle and they know it. (dont make me go to rant thread mods )

[ag9111]

I have spare ones of those.... smartarse

[Kegsy]

If ya have eyed the hub moving, then yeah its a bearing.

I thought maybe you felt the movement and just assumed it was a bearing. Only reason I thought this was there was no mention of a noise etc.

And for the record, balljoints do exist on IFS. Parts 15 & 13.

[borngeek]

If ya have eyed the hub moving, then yeah its a bearing.

I thought maybe you felt the movement and just assumed it was a bearing. Only reason I thought this was there was no mention of a noise etc.

And for the record, balljoints do exist on IFS. Parts 15 & 13.

Thanks mate!

Great info there Kegsy, why getting the thread started is a good thing

//I am only a daft geek after all

[NTBB]

correct though

Better order parts 19 and 21 whilst your at it.

I have spare ones of those.... smartarse

No rumble to let you know it was on the way out geek...

Mate, it is quiet as a church mouse. Even when rocking it around. It has enough movement to move the caliper and everything. It is a proper failure with little symptoms. I do detect a slight front wheel vibration at about 100km/h+
Will be interesting to have a good look at it when replaced. It has also started to wear the outer edge of the brake rotor. So it has been like that for a while

The fact that it is a sealed unit and it gave no warning it may be one of tho's must have spares for the long range tourer... The after market price (thanks Brendan) would make that possibal.
Thanks for the feed back BG....

[Homer]

I never looked at it really closely, but I mentioned that sealed bearing in the how to change a CV thread and suspected that you could just knock the sealed bearing out with a decent pin punch and replace with a $30 bearing from SKF?

I assumed the only hassle was going to all the trouble to get at it (similar work to changing CV) compared to the old style bearings.

[Tony]

Chewed heaps of bearings on our ATV's like this. Eventually the knuckle shits (pt no 18) and wont hold the bearing firmly.

[RHKTriton]

I gather the bearing bearing is a press fit on the hub. How is the bearing/hub assembly fitted to the knuckle?

If you press the hub to get the bearing into the knuckle you'd be putting extreme pressure on the bearing components.

I replaced sealed bearings on my old Vito (about 190k km ) and they rumbled fairly loudly with no play. When the new ones were in all the noises gone.

Its pretty amazing what these sealed units put up with. The old style had the benefit of being serviceable but if the outer disintegrated you could watch your wheel go bush.

[Homer]

Yeah I'm almost positive you just need to get at the back of the hub and can just knock the bearing out and replace with a new SKF jobby..that or pull it out from the front. Should be no issue and cheap.

If the housing's flogged but not too bad you can use loctite or in worse situation use liquid metal putty.

I went back to the CV thread to get a pic I took of the bearing and carrier but the blokes photobucket account I used has been deleted along with our pics

If you wanted to you can strip out the "sealed' bit of the bearing and make it a serviceable bearing by drilling and tapping a grease nipple in the housing...probably wont give an advantage given the mud and stuff we regularly drive through...

[ultimate]

I never looked at it really closely, but I mentioned that sealed bearing in the how to change a CV thread and suspected that you could just knock the sealed bearing out with a decent pin punch and replace with a $30 bearing from SKF?

I assumed the only hassle was going to all the trouble to get at it (similar work to changing CV) compared to the old style bearings.

I spoke with SPF, CBC and Burson auto parts. Nobody listed any actual bearings for the Triton. CBC listed a replacement hub but apparently it's still "on order" with no ETA. Repco on the other hand has a bearing supplier in Melbourne who has just listed the sealed unit. When we have the after market one fitted, we will pull apart Geek's and measure up the bearings. Hopefully they generic and we can build a newtriton rebuild kit

At the moment the focus is getting Geek's Triton fixed so it's safe and can put up with his level of testing

[snowman]

I went back to the CV thread to get a pic I took of the bearing and carrier but the blokes photobucket account I used has been deleted along with our pics

bugger. do we have the technology to rebuild this thread and bring it in forum?

[Homer]

I went back to the CV thread to get a pic I took of the bearing and carrier but the blokes photobucket account I used has been deleted along with our pics

bugger. do we have the technology to rebuild this thread and bring it in forum?

I've sent a PM and hoping Snowie

Brendan, if you can just get me the numbers off the actual bearing I can get you a replacement no probs...probably pretty cheap too

[ultimate]

Sounds good mate. Wheel bearings aren't my business so happy to provide all the info to the forum in search of ideas

[RHKTriton]

The scary thing with bearings is the scale of counterfeiting in the market. Talking to a bearing Rep several months ago, the copies are so good to look at that the only way to prove a unit is genuine, is by destructive testing. The only other way they have found is by testing the dies used in the print on packaging...amazing!

You'd think that all the similar vehicles, inc the Tris. Toys and ForDaz, etc could just use the same components.

Same issue as with brakes - about five standard components could cover from small buzz boxes to five tonne trucks.

[Homer]

In my experience the bearings will be standard off the shelf stuff - just labelled as to their size not labelled for the Triton, Hilux etc.

You wouldn't know if they were the same if you deal with them as car parts...bit like the uni filters being the same for the Bravo or whatever it is.