subi_man wrote:For around $36 and 15mins of your install time, you can add an ipod input cable to your stock headunit.
Get your Mitsubishi dealer to order you the cable (part no: MZ360135EX "aux cable").
Once you have the cable in your hand, you're ready to install!
You need to remove the headunit, and possibly the plastic surround if the cables behind aren't long enough (like mine weren't). You can release the headunit by poking in a thin rod (like a nail or pop-rivet) into the 4 small holes on the front...
The plastic surround is held in with clips along the top, and one screw on the bottom RHS...
Remove the two connectors, earth cable and aerial from the rear of the headunit. The black, red & white wires from the ipod cable go in the back of the white 14-pin plug as per the instructions that come with it - they slot in and lock very easily.
I routed the cable into the glovebox, but you could bring it out under the ashtray if you want. I have since cut the cable and installed a 3.5mm headphone socket in the dash, so when not listening to the iPod, there is no cable floating around
Now carefully put it all back together and you are good to go!! Plug the cable to the headphone jack of your ipod and choose your songs normally. To listen to the ipod through the speakers, press and hold the CD button until AUX appears in the top dash display..
The volume on the ipod AND the headunit volume both work, so you will have to fine-tune both levels until you are happy...
ENJOY!!!
These are good instructions, no doubt. But I found they assumed too much talent on the part of the reader
Here is mine for the ham-fisted electronic and mechanical dullard (in Perth):
Aux cable: available from Paceway Mitsubishi in Osborne Park, just as listed above.
Female headphone plug jack: available from Jaycar Electronics in Northbridge for (about) $2.60
Firstly, put out of your mind any thoughts that this is a 15 minute job. It's at least a six-pack from the time you pull into the garage to the time you drive out listening to your choons via MP3 player.
If you can get the right tool for popping the stereo out, do so. If not, use fence wire, I found coat hanger wire too thin and weak. Make careful note of how it comes apart, because as with anything, reassembly is harder.
Once the radio is out, unplug everything. It's just in the way and the plugs on the back can't be mixed up. DO be careful not to lose any of the cables into the abyss behind the dash.
As you look at the dash, you need the 14pin plug on the right. It has plenty of spare pins on it, the other one doesn't.
Take your aux cable and BEFORE you snip the male part off, plug it into your Jaycar plug jack. Now take a multimeter and one by one look for a circuit between the tabs on the back of the plug jack and the bear wires on the other end of your aux cable. This gives you a map for the correct way to wire it after you've snipped the male end off and are ready to solder your up the plug jack.
I set out to install my jack in the centre console near the 12v outlet. In the end, I simply couldn't be bothered removing more interior trim so it is located as par my picture. Assuming you locate your jack as I have, you will need to prize off the plastic piece of dash surrounding the head unit. I have read talk of a specific tool, but I was told to just pull it. If feels like you're going to break something, you're doing it correctly. I found it easier to remove by undoing the screw on the right side of this panel, that points down into the drivers footwell and links it to the panel under the steering column. Expect to not be able to line this hole up again when you reassemble.
There is also an important clip at the bottom on the left side of this panel near the glovebox but mainly you need to get the top ones out. You will likely break either this one or the two large ones at each corner of the top of this panel. If you don't break it, you may be lucky and just fire the useful part of the clip somewhere into the abyss.
Solder your female plug jack as per your multimeter wiring diagram. Before you attempt to plug your factory-prepared bear wires into the 14 pin plug in the dash, use a very small flat head screw driver and open the locking mechanism on the bottom of the plug, it slides out about 2mm and permits the insertion of the wires. They will click into place when theyre in far enough. Now re-connect your head unit, plug into the headphones jack and test everything with your MP3. If ok, unplug the head unit again and put it to one side. Now select where your headphones jack will go. You'll need a spot with a reasonably flat area behind. I didn't check the correct size of drill bit - apologies. Mine started too small but remember, you can't cut something a bit longer. I was able to ream my hole (ooh err) with a chain saw sharpening file. By not reaming with the drill, you eliminate the risk of melting the plastic to an odd size or shape and more swarf doesn't help with insertion either.
I also coiled my cable and secured with two zip ties. I didn't test it fully but it looks to me like the the standard aux cable does have enough length to reach the centre console if you wanted to. I didn't, I had already soldered so ended up with excess. The zip ties kept it neat.
I also applied a thick daub of silicone sealant over the soldered terminals once in situ, to ensure insulation as there is no chance of getting electrical tape in there if you don't have the touch and patience of a brain surgeon. Wind the washer on over the top, the section of dash I used is quite thick so I really only had the thickness of the washer left protruding. I used long nose pliers to ensure it was tight, you can see where my deft touch has scuffed the plastic slightly with the jaws.
Once done, retest. I say that because the less often you remove and replace the dash panels, the less likely you will be break more clips, create more rattles, throw tools, use words your kids shouldn't have to hear or assault loved ones.
If all ok, re-locate all the cables from in the abyss and ensure they are accessible and not going to be irretrievable once the dash is back together. Then replace the dash panels. I believe the correct engineering term is to initially "offer it up" before you go pressing clips back in place. Do the right side top clip first was what I found best and you will need locate the clip before you reset the overlap with the panel next door, as they interlock. Also take care to locate that lower left clip by the glove box.
Once pressed in, pay close attention to the screw at the bottom right above the footwell. Look at how it goes together before you snap it all together, because once its back together, your are blind. When I attempted to locate the self tapper to the rapid-fix clip, it wouldn't go close to lining up. It did however line up perfectly with another hole about 5mm lower, but there was no fastener on it. I solved it by just getting another self tapper 6mm longer and 2mm wider and just winding it into the new hole. Job jobbed, looks like a bought one.
Reconnect the head unit and push it back into place. Mysteriously, the right hand side of my head unit WILL NOT clip back secure. I know for a fact it is going to shake itself to death on the first unsealed road I hit and make a sound akin to a jackhammer until I stuff a folded up piece of paper into it.
Then as per the first post, hold the CD button down until AUX appears and you're good to go.
I will likely find a decent phone holder for my music iPhone (distinct from the one I use for calls) and mount it very close to the jack.
Here is the jack:
NB. I had the help of my Dad and his mate, so most of the good ideas listed above were theirs