Fixing the overboost issues with the MN 2.5HP

Re: Fixing the overboost issues with the MN 2.5HP

Postby landjcharles on Thu Jul 01, 2021 7:19 am

Hi All,
I'm new to this forum, I recently brought a 2016 MN Triton that is in awesome condition.

I have just been reading through this forum regarding turbo over-boost issues, I think this happened to my Trition yesterday.
Towing a small box trailer with a kayak on it up a hill and out of nowhere the car went into limp mode with the engine light etc on the dash. Turned it off and waited for a few minutes and it was out of limp mode but the engine light still on.

I have had this Triton for about three months and done about 6000km with no issue until now but this is the first time I towed a trailer for a long distance. Funny thing is that I drove up Clyde Mountain with no issue, it was a realatively small hill that caused this drama yesterday.

Reading through the post on this issue I think my Triton may need a tune, I brought it with a 3inch exhaust, DP Chip and a U7 throttle controller but I am not sure if it has ever had any tune done on it since this stuff has been fitted.

Am I correct in starting with a custom tune to fix this issue?

Also, does anyone know of a good diesel tune place in the Canberra region?

Cheers.
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Re: Fixing the overboost issues with the MN 2.5HP

Postby NowForThe5th on Thu Jul 01, 2021 8:26 am

Your problem is the 3" exhaust, not the lack of a tune, which probably won't fix the problem anyway.
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Re: Fixing the overboost issues with the MN 2.5HP

Postby DibbyDibbyDJ on Thu Jul 01, 2021 4:11 pm

NowForThe5th wrote:Your problem is the 3" exhaust, not the lack of a tune, which probably won't fix the problem anyway.


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Re: Fixing the overboost issues with the MN 2.5HP

Postby L200Shogun on Sat Jul 03, 2021 8:23 pm

A good Tuner/remapper can stop the overboost issue
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Re: Fixing the overboost issues with the MN 2.5HP

Postby deanA on Tue Jul 27, 2021 11:44 pm

My previous Triton (MN) had the same issue. Only ever happened under load up hill. Not every hill but in the end I could pick which ones it would do it on. No error codes showed on my scan tool but engine light came on and had to be cleared with the scan tool.
Next time you are under the bonnet try disconnecting the little actuator arm on the front of the turbo that controls the vanes. You'll need a set of pointy noise pillars to pull off the little circlip and you can gently pull off the arm. Make sure there is no surface rust on the two surfaces. Mine was sticking here and then releasing the vanes, hence the overboost. A little bit of fine sandpaper and wd40 will clean it up. Good time to check your vanes open and close freely also. Mine never did it again, no matter how hard I tried to push it. I just regularly made sure it was clean.
Hope you get it sorted. Real pain when your climbing up a hill with a load on then need to pull over to get out of limp mode
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Re: Fixing the overboost issues with the MN 2.5HP

Postby Norwegiantriton on Mon Aug 09, 2021 5:00 am

deanA wrote:My previous Triton (MN) had the same issue. Only ever happened under load up hill. Not every hill but in the end I could pick which ones it would do it on. No error codes showed on my scan tool but engine light came on and had to be cleared with the scan tool.
Next time you are under the bonnet try disconnecting the little actuator arm on the front of the turbo that controls the vanes. You'll need a set of pointy noise pillars to pull off the little circlip and you can gently pull off the arm. Make sure there is no surface rust on the two surfaces. Mine was sticking here and then releasing the vanes, hence the overboost. A little bit of fine sandpaper and wd40 will clean it up. Good time to check your vanes open and close freely also. Mine never did it again, no matter how hard I tried to push it. I just regularly made sure it was clean.
Hope you get it sorted. Real pain when your climbing up a hill with a load on then need to pull over to get out of limp mode



Where is it located? Exhaust side under the heat shield?
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Re: Fixing the overboost issues with the MN 2.5HP

Postby deanA on Mon Aug 09, 2021 8:31 am

No need to pull the heat shield off. It is just in front of the heat shield. In between the exhaust side and inlet side. The actuator arm is about 60mm long. The pin to control the vanes it connects to is on the exhaust side. If you are standing at the side of your car looking at the turbo and it will be right in the middle of it
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Re: Fixing the overboost issues with the MN 2.5HP

Postby Norwegiantriton on Fri Dec 03, 2021 2:53 am

deanA wrote:No need to pull the heat shield off. It is just in front of the heat shield. In between the exhaust side and inlet side. The actuator arm is about 60mm long. The pin to control the vanes it connects to is on the exhaust side. If you are standing at the side of your car looking at the turbo and it will be right in the middle of it


Even though mine is a 2011, I apparently don't have VGT Turbo. Just a normal wastegated one. Wastegate arm goes in behind the heatshield. My problem can't be sticking vanes then :P
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Re: Fixing the overboost issues with the MN 2.5HP

Postby RHKTriton on Fri Dec 03, 2021 7:22 am

If it's a regular wastegate setup, still worth checking that all moves freely. Check that the tubing from the manifold to the actuator can is clear. If it's restricted, the wastegate might not be responding properly.
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Re: Fixing the overboost issues with the MN 2.5HP

Postby Bluey_Zarsoff on Sun Sep 11, 2022 8:11 pm

first post by me, but this (long-long) thread has helped me make up my mind so it was worth the sign up.

I have a manual MN Triton set up to go pretty much anywhere I point it. It has a canopy, moderate lift, a snorkel and breathers, catch can, fully sound proofed, winch, 2 ½ inch exhaust and bars front & rear. It is heavy and in no way is it quick, but it is reliable and rock steady and I like it like that. The only issues I have had is with the OEM Boost controller causing over boost, so I bought a new OEM solenoid valve, and it was perfect for 8 months but then it started over boosting again.

So, this time I bought a Tillix valve & needle valve and had it dyno tuned last week by Lindsay Burrows the owner/inventor of the Tillix valve.
But ever since then it runs hotter by the Temp gauge, it has risen to 3/4 a couple of times in the last week & it has never done that before, it always sat on ½ and never ever got any hotter. And by the boost gauge it can now boost to over 25psi, if I stand on it I can get it to just over 30 psi, and I have noticed the exhaust manifold creaking and banging (heat expansion I would think) but it is doing it while I am driving it and I can hear it in the cab & it has never done that before either. I think that the heat under the bonnet is now affecting the clutch slave cylinder as well because the clutch feels weird after it warms up as well.

But the final straw was today when I got an engine light (but not limp mode) while I was in 3rd and accelerating hard. When I cleared the code the OBD11 car scanner said something about boost pressure.

This is the thing about Tuners, in my experience a lot of them just try to turn your vehicle into a race car & push it to its limit, but this is a dirty old slow revving diesel ute & if I wanted a race car I would have bought one. All I wanted was for it to max out at about 18 psi and boost no higher. I do not see the point in trying to break the land, sea speed record in a heavy 4x4 Triton Ute.

Yes it drives better with the Tillix installed especially in low rpms, but something else is happening to my ute that I do not like, it is the first time I have ever had this feeling that something is going to break, & I don’t like it. I no longer trust the old beast with this Tillix valve installed & I am not going to risk it any longer. I am removing it tomorrow and getting another Denso Boost controller. But this time I am going to mount this one on a rubber vibration & heat retarding damper & see if that makes it last a bit longer.
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Re: Fixing the overboost issues with the MN 2.5HP

Postby srb on Mon Sep 12, 2022 8:31 am

No, the problem is that you or your tunner don't really know how to set them up correctly. When running standalone boost control, you really should know what you're doing. Running anything over 25psi is pointless and stupid on the standard turbo, and will only reduce reliability. If you knew what you were doing, you'd know how to adjust the boost pressure and bleed-in.

Also, when running this set-up, you need to be able to monitor boost, egt, and coolant temps.

Set-up correctly at 25psi max boost with right amount of bleed, and always monitor your gauges and you'll be more reliable than any factory set-up. But it does require an understanding of how it all works. It's certainly not for everyone.

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