High beam wire

[godzilla_rising]

So just as an expansion of what has already been discussed...I found a blown fuse and have replaced it. Do you think that it would be wise to up the amp rating (to 15 or something) for the headlight it is all wired into? Here are some photos.

This is just the overall view of the wiring so far...



Here is the wire going into the bak of the headlight.



And then the relay itself...then there are 2 wires that run into the cab and to the switch.

[Naff]

You should never upsize a fuse unless you know that the wiring (and components) in the circuit can withstand a higher current (and I wouldn't recommend it with the Triton light wiring, or any vehicle wiring).

The fuse is blowing for a reason.

You're wiring should typically be as follows;

Wire from connection point of high beam -> switch in dash -> relay coil (85) [this turns on the relay]
relay coil (86) -> battery negative/chassis
battery positive -> spot light fuse -> relay contact (30) -> spotlight positive
spotlight negative -> battery negative/chassis

Depending on what sort of switch you have it may require a ground or negative to activate an internal LED. Any current being drawn from the spot light should be going through the relay contact and separate fuse.

If you are blowing factory fuses, there could be a problem in the switch side of the circuit.



Click for full image..

[mattz]

How have you connected to the high beam wire?
If you have used a scotch lock it may have a bad connection. Check that and your earth.......they may be the cause of the fuse blowing.

[godzilla_rising]

It's just soldered into the plug at the back of the light housing. I saw this as the easiest way...mind you, my soldering skills aren't the greatest...that's why I fix engines and airframes. Hahahaha...but seriously.

Thank you all for your input so far. I'm going to double check all the wiring tomorrow and will draw up how it's set up.

[godzilla_rising]

So here is my rough, dodgy and messy electrical diagram for the set up. Put in a new fuse in the factory box and switched the wires around going in and coming out of switch. No probs as of yet but haven't had them on for as long.

[ag9111]

Which fuse was blown, assume high beam, as your light circuit as you have drawn it is wrong. Follow Naff's drawing which is correct.
Your drawing indicates that you will pull all the spot light power through the highbeam circuit, hence the blowing fuse, and the spotties will work all the time regardless of high beam being on or not. Assuming thats this is not what you want

In Naff's circuit, the relay connections are 85 and 86

The contact connections, between fuse and light, are 30 and 87

Hope this helps, suggest you pull all yours out and start again as it is sometimes easier

[NowForThe5th]

I've drawn the circuit as it should be and added relay terminals. Naff was correct but this might be a little easier to follow and it minimises cable runs to reduce potential voltage drop.

lights wiring001.jpg

[godzilla_rising]

The spotties don't work all the time though, only when I have them switched on through the switch. I really hate electrical things...lol

[ag9111]

Its easy mate. Just pull it all out and start again usith Noff or NFT5's drawing. They are both correct

[Naff]

How'd you go GR?

[godzilla_rising]

Getting stuck into it tomorrow. I had a good look at everything last night and identified where it needs to be fixed. I will let you know how it goes but thanks for everything so far.

[Wirtzy]

Well, this thread hasn't been used for a while but I'll ask anyway . . .
Is there a connection under the dash (inside the car) that can be used as a trigger for spotlights. I know that you can tap into the wire at the light, but wanted to tap into the system inside the cab.
Any help is appreciated.

[big_bob_thefirst]

Mate, I spent a while looking for one but never found one. The engine bay worked well as u can put the relay in the engine bay and just run the wiring from the switch in the cabin.

[Snooozy]

Is there a connection under the dash (inside the car) that can be used as a trigger for spotlights. I know that you can tap into the wire at the light, but wanted to tap into the system inside the cab.
Any help is appreciated.

Mate, I spent a while looking for one but never found one. The engine bay worked well as u can put the relay in the engine bay and just run the wiring from the switch in the cabin.

same here, spent hours looking & gave up. it is very well hidden

[NowForThe5th]

Wirtzy, the only way I can see that you could do this is to pick up the line from the high beam relay where it enters the ETACS-ECU. It's a red cable with blue trace at Connector C-211. Beyond that looks very difficult because the ETACS-ECU then connects to the COLUMN-ECU and it appears that they are just exchanging data. If you did pick up the signal this way you'd need to be aware that the high beam relay is negative switched so you'd need to pass this line through a relay to activate whatever it is that you want to do. Pretty messy I'd suggest and you don't know what kind of sensing is in the ETACS-ECU that tapping in to the line might upset.

Far better, and safer, to do as big_bob suggests as put your wiring downstream of the high beam relay using this to run a relay for your separate harness.

[renshaw]

This help finding the high beam wire!
Thou not much of an auto lecky! Spent all day wiring it up!

They don't give you much room getting wires inside the dash! [POUTING FACE]

Opted for the Narva wiring loom and led light bar from brite light!

[RHKTriton]

With all the electronic gizmology in these new vehicles it is WISE to do any switching from leads going to the various loads, such as headlight feed.

One suggestion; use a length of trailer flex as your connection link from the engine bay to the dash area. This will provide number of circuits to control stuff with and will only require one run through the fire wall.

[Bunga181]

Just a quick update, I tapped into the high beam wire by opening the plug that connects on to the back of the bulb. There are three small lugs that you can open to open the plug housing. There is plenty of room inside to join onto the blue/yellow wire and there is even enough room in the plug housing to accommodate the additional wire out the back. Neat and no cutting required. Worked a treat for me.

[ag9111]

I remember reading somewhere that someone found a blank socket with high beam 12volts in the fusepanel under the steering wheel
No idea where though

[odie602r]

I recently found some 12v sockets in the fuse bay under steering wheel that are active with ignition on (as opposed to accessories) - nor sure if that's what you're referring to ag?

This was the link viewtopic.php?f=21&t=13548

[Swanny66]

The factory supplied wiring loom takes the High Beam from a square plug in the fusebox.

The scanned Mitsubishi instructions are here:

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/download/file.php?id=4102

The loom costs around $140, but ends up looking like a factory install.

[Tritonmax]

Thanks heaps for this Swanny. Just in the process of doing some wiring on my new ute (dual battery, UHF, Driving lights, etc...) and this will be invaluable. If you're ever around Central Victoria, my shout for a beer or 2!

[Swanny66]

Cheers, Tritonmax! Glad you got some good info that you can use.

[Gavin Jones]

[quote="Swanny66"]The factory supplied wiring loom takes the High Beam from a square plug in the fusebox.

The scanned Mitsubishi instructions are here:

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/download/file.php?id=4102

The loom costs around $140, but ends up looking like a factory install.

[Interdec]

My question is this, from a newbie member; how can such thin wires carry enough current to safely power the headlights. Surely that wire can't be the required 5 amps?