Turbo Wastegate arm "ADJUSTMENT MOD" And full test results

[trickydevil]

Just did mine. Will be going for a decent cruise in the next coupla day, will see what happens. Gave it a quick squirt out towards nana glenn seemed to pull up the hills a bit better. Didn't push too hard the roads are pretty wet and slippery up here at the moment.

[GLX-R Alex]

Ive been fanging the ass out of mine in the wet the last couple of days...

[RHKTriton]

Update

Well, I've run the engine with and without the Throttle box connected for a couple of days and have concluded that there is more go with smoother delivery without the throttle; can get through some roundabouts in top gear now!

The engine light comes on anywhere from a few minutes to having driven over 15km when the plug is disconnected and cancels similarly when reconnected.

[sierra]

Thanks for the update.
So we just need some way of keeping it open without the computer knowing and it's a goer. Strange that MRT have been so blunt in not replying to my requests for info on this butterfly, perhaps it's an important part of their power up process?

Did you see the posts on adding 2 stroke oil to compensate for the loss of sulphur in diesel?
Lots of benefits for 2.5c per litre of fuel cost and lower fuel consumption should hopefully repay that with interest.

[GLX-R Alex]

Now im Getting interested in the throttle butterfly... I think im gona start testing also .. I need a circuit diagram..

[sierra]

As RHK mentioned, the brass butterfly retaining screws are peened over for security but you could remove the assembly and use a small rotary cutter or carefully file the peened ends off and remove it. Might be difficult to match the screws and peen them again if it had to be returned to standard.
Another option would be to get the assembly from the wreckers, remove the butterfly and swap so it's easy to backtrack if needed. Maybe remove the manifold part from the plastic motor by drilling the rivets off and plug the motor in so it can do its thing, leaving the original assembly untouched while the wrecker motor does it's thing tucked away out of sight?
Another plug with a fake gizzmo replicating the current etc of the original?

When you pull the hose off to have a look at the butterfly shine a torch down there to see where the EGR enters the manifold and the shiny aluminium turns to black soot. Just 3,000km from new when mine got blanked but it's well covered already.

[GLX-R Alex]

Imagine the soot after 40000km....

Im gona try and make a socket to fit the plug... or work out where to put some jumpers between the pins to cancel the fault condition when unpluged..

[sierra]

It would be chockers after that long!

Can I put my name down for anything you work out if you make a few, unless any of us can come up with an easy fix to copy? I would be good to still have it close when the engine gets turned off if that's what makes it go on a bit when it's dissconnected?

[RHKTriton]

How can someone sign off on a design that chogs itself up on shit and suggest to all that they have made the engine meet emission specs???

Re flap: I've been thinkin' that one of the wires in the throttle plug must 'drive' the flap to close when the ECU commands this. At the same time the EGR valve is getting a signal to open at various times.

If we can find the EGR signal and use this to operate a relay to kill the Throttle signal, it should obtain the desired result. WIth this setup the throttle should remain open most of the time and close on engine shutdown and possibly on over-run - eg. engine braking.

Wouldn't be bad to have manual override for crawling down tracks.

Re soot: pretty amazing how much crap the EGR lets in during the first few kms. These engines are well compromised before they're run in.

[trickydevil]

I don't have the EGR blank in mine & i have just clocked up 76000km. I haven't had any dramas so far.... next service is at mitsu so i'll probably blank it after that.... I'll be get'n it looked over in detail to see if anything is starting to go a miss as the main waranty runs out at 100,000km. Won't take me to long to get there.

[trickydevil]

Have done a few runs with the wastegate mod done.

Around town is about 13l/100km

Highway Coffs - Gerringong got 9.8l/100km. I was stoaked.....and thats with 285/75 R16 BFG MT Km2's. Temp was about 30°C.

[trytin]

Have done a few runs with the wastegate mod done.

Around town is about 13l/100km

Highway Coffs - Gerringong got 9.8l/100km. I was stoaked.....and thats with 285/75 R16 BFG MT Km2's. Temp was about 30°C.

Tricky thats pretty bad economy, did my adjustment and still get much the same economy - 9.8/100 ave. Best Country 8.4 worst city 10.8. If I get over 10.8 its because I am towing a 1.2t loaded camper wife and kids - the most I use then is 12.7.

[NTBB]

Tricky thats pretty bad economy, did my adjustment and still get much the same economy - 9.8/100 ave. Best Country 8.4 worst city 10.8. If I get over 10.8 its because I am towing a 1.2t loaded camper wife and kids - the most I use then is 12.7.[/quote]

I wish i could get that sort of economy mine is pretty much the same as tricky but iv'e got stock wheels and the only mods are b/bar and canopy.the best i ever got was low to mid 11's and that was doing 100km/hr on the speedo so more like 93km/hr and thats empty. I would be happy with 10.8 on hi way let alone in town.

[GLX-R Alex]

I get 9.0 to 10.0 average with plate and arm mod..

[daryn]

Have done a few runs with the wastegate mod done.

Around town is about 13l/100km

Highway Coffs - Gerringong got 9.8l/100km. I was stoaked.....and thats with 285/75 R16 BFG MT Km2's. Temp was about 30°C.

Wow, someone who is the same as me, yet I have an Auto and 265's, but never less we are basically the same with the same engine mods.

[NTBB]

Are you guys sitting on 110km/hr and getting these figures? can't get over what some are getting economy wise how can there be so much diff between them.my lightforce 240's b/bar and canopy can't have that much of a impact can they? sorry i know it's not the my economy suxs thread but it shi%s me to tears back on subject replaced egr plate can't stand the truck eating it's own crap and don't enjoy the lag.

[RHKTriton]

Best I ever got was 7.5 at 110 from the BP servos west of Bachus Marsh with a tail wind and going largely into the basin around B-Msh, gradually worked its way up over the West Gate & through the tunnels to about 8.9 by Warrigul Rd and up to 9.5 by Morwell.

With everything I've tried to get better economy, I'm convinced my ski bars cost at least 1l/100, narrower tyres could give another litre and an airdam for road use would do wonders. Just look under the euro units that get good economy - nearly flat underneath. The various cross members, big open voids around the wheels in the mud guards and live axle tube at the back, as well as, all the hollow "pockets" around the underside of the tub must really mess up the air flow.

Also now giving the two stroke oil a run on this tank full of juice.

Biggest problem with all the enhancements we're all trying is that you tend to use the extra go and usually means extra economy is given up for the driving enjoyment. Gee the Masport 2Strk oil looked very similar to the Chem tech diesel treatment.

[sierra]

Also now giving the two stroke oil a run on this tank full of juice.
Biggest problem with all the enhancements we're all trying is that you tend to use the extra go and usually means extra economy is given up for the driving enjoyment. Gee the Masport 2Strk oil looked very similar to the Chem tech diesel treatment.

Here's an important bit of info from Yamaha-fan on 2T oil.

I would use any of the two 2-T oils, whichever I would get cheaper.
You can also use the Mobil Extra 2T.
Important is, that those 2T-oils should comply with JASO "FC" or ISO L-E "GC" or "GD", which should be written on the bottle. All 2T-oils as per these norms burn with an ash content of less than 0,05%.

I spent ages looking through Super Cheap's 2T oil for the right spec in a 5L cheapy but ended up buying another 1L of Valvoline 2T racing oil for $9.90. It's the right spec, see below and has a measure down the back so you toss it in from the original container.
Jaso 'FC'
Iso 'GD'
I'll be interested in your opinion but for me it just sounds and feels better, more responsive even.

[sheepo]

hi i am thinkin g about doing this mod but i have no scangauge have any of you had any probs yet ?
or should i wait for a scangauge?
cheeers peter

[sam]

hi i am thinkin g about doing this mod but i have no scangauge have any of you had any probs yet ?
or should i wait for a scangauge?
cheeers peter

I'd wait till you get a scangauge sheepo just saves alot of greif trying to get to a dealer etc if it does throw a code .
It would be one of the best things I've bought for the Tri

[Diddy]

can someone plz tell me y we just dont clamp off the little black hose that runs from the compressor to the wastegate and just run full boost cause i had had a really hard time adjusting the wastegate arm.why do we really need a wastegate .

[sierra]

can someone plz tell me y we just dont clamp off the little black hose that runs from the compressor to the wastegate and just run full boost cause i had had a really hard time adjusting the wastegate arm.why do we really need a wastegate .

The ECU would cut the power and put you into limp mode if you clamped that hose.
If the ECU failed to do that the engine would almost certainly destroy itself .
The standard boost cut limit for the ECU is about 18psi. With the ChipIt linked up to the MAP sensor it's about 25psi.
While Justin was setting up an electronic boost controller on mine it was closed for a few test runs and hit that 25psi cut boost limit instantly as it passed 2000rpm and went into limp mode.
Can you imagine how high it would go with no limit and double the rpm to feed it?

The compressor could also shit itself at high rpm/pressure and whatever made it through the intercooler would then destroy the valves and pistons if they survived the detonation just before that?

[Jitsukablue]

RHK, the butterfly will be contolled by a PWM signal from the ecu. If u unplug the appropriate wire, the ecu will still throw a code as the butterfly valve will have 2 feedback sensors (thin strip resistors) that will show the valve position is unchanged.
Ive not looked properly yet, the disc and stem should be removable, that would be the easiest answer. Failing that, a bypass hose to stop the valve closing creating a vacuum? Just throwing some ideas around.

[reeldreamer]

I have done this wastegate arm modification and just installed the scangauge and the boost is 14.7psi. I really don't believe it made any difference at all. I will set in back to the previous position to see if it makes any change to the boost. I think if your chasing extra boost just install a bleed valve and be done with it. I can't argue with the EGR blanking plate but the wastegate mod is a backyard modification worth avoiding. Its like these guys who pull their front headlight out of their crappy commonwhores to get cold air induction......Waste of time!

Mitch

[borngeek]

I have done this wastegate arm modification and just installed the scangauge and the boost is 14.7psi. I really don't believe it made any difference at all. I will set in back to the previous position to see if it makes any change to the boost. I think if your chasing extra boost just install a bleed valve and be done with it. I can't argue with the EGR blanking plate but the wastegate mod is a backyard modification worth avoiding. Its like these guys who pull their front headlight out of their crappy commonwhores to get cold air induction......Waste of time!

Mitch

Thats a bit of a big call there Mitch.

It DEFINATELY increases your boost.. Try it with your scanguage at both settings and I am 100% positive you will see the data that shows the difference in psi..

Whether your bum in seat experience is dissapointing or not to you is par for course.

This is a cheap mod/trick without putting in a bleed valve. (boost controller)
Anyway if you dont have a chipIT (with MAP installed) the engine will limp at 17psi anyway.. So this is a easy and cheap way to get from 14.5psi (std) to around 16psi or more if you take out the locknut..

Comparing it to commodore drivers pulling out the headlights is a bit harsh mate. Keep it above the belt OK