Only cause I hate to see something horible happen - Any chance you can move the breather to the other side of the engine? Oil and oily fumes and Exhaust manifold temperatures close to 900 degrees don't mix is whay I ask...
Would be worth your next Sunday morning to relocate it as far from anything hot as possible - Even do a 90 degree and zippy tie it to something on the inlet side of the rocker cover - Only half as hot atleast - Significantly reduce the risk of fire...
just an thought
I bought a new Turbo Diesel Ute to tow my two toys, now the Ute takes all my time n money! crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap
Gotta disagree RHK. The turbine is in the rear housing, driven by the exhaust and in turn drives the compressor which the engine breather is venting into. The compressor/turbine connecting shaft is supported by bearings but the centrifugal compressor needs no lubrication other than to those bearings. The clearances between the impeller and it's housing will be very close to maintain efficient pumping but to touch would be instant failure as the frictional heat generated would lock the assembly up and send the debris through the engine. That's why it needs to stay spotless in there with just filtered air and not acidic oil residue building on the vanes and housing.
just realised that the new 4 stroke motorcross bikes have a breather from the rocker cover that feeds back to the intake like ours does , but halfway from the rocker cover to the airbox there is a T piece that has another tube off it with a drain plug on the end
now im guessing that there is not a lot of pressure in this line so the oil that comes through would just be slowly moving along the main tube untill it runs into the T piece then gravity takes over and it falls into the tube where the bung is on the end , i have noticed oil in the collection tube before and you just pop off the bung and drain it out
so you would only get mostly fresh air going back into the intake and oil left in the collection tube , what you guys reckon , same principle for our motors ??
Marge bring me your address book ,4 beers and my conversation hat !!
That set up would probably stop most of the heavy stuff. The difference between the bike and the diesel are higher suction[compressor inlet] and dirtier combustion getting past the rings. How about getting a decent sized fuel filter and passing it through that? Any of the clear ones would be easy to check for glug and replacement. I made a blanking gasket from 0.5mm SS and slipped it on the EGR valve side of the exhaust inlet gasket. Not much thread on those 2 bolts so I kept it thin for that reason and so it can't be seen. I even put the 4 inlet bolts back in the same positions because everything is colour coded to show any tampering I presume? As soon as I get a volunteer to hold the throttle open I'll leak test the dry joint for bubbles and seal it if it's leaking. No check light and no problems apart from the throttle loading up on the freeway which I thought might be the computer's way of limiting power but turned out to be the cheap mat jammed up under the pedal. Talk about paranoid!
RHK, They had a decent looking capture can in Repco for about $79 but it was quite large. How about the fuel filter idea? The universal ones are pretty cheap, it's adapting to the 15mm? tubing that's difficult because fuel lines are so much smaller.
The tiny turbo must wind up to incredible rpm to supply 18psi at 4,000rpm? and more when asked too. I once read that the old Daihatsu 3 cylinder turbo[1L?] used to reach 240,000rpm!
sierra wrote:I even put the 4 inlet bolts back in the same positions because everything is colour coded to show any tampering I presume?
This "colour coding" may just be the paint they dob on bolts at the factory once they have done the final torque/quality tests. Every bloody bolts in my car is painted. Looks like someone let my kid loose wit the brush.
I'd rather have a full bottle in front of me than a full frontal labotomy!
As soon as my new GLX-R has had the first service at 1500km...(Done 600 odd atm), i will be installing the ERG blanking at the flange on the exhaust manifold using 0.5 stainless shim sheet. Stuffed if i want that black soot going into my nice clean new manifold. I cant see how this exclusion of exhaust will be measurable enough for it to chuck an ecl.. I cant see any pressure or temp senders in the path between the exhaust manifold/heat exchanger/egr valve etc.. So should be all ok i assume.. The only thing im slightly conserned about is evidence of tampering on the bolts. Maybe i can get a pink paint pen to re mark them nice and stelth..
Alex, No problems with mine since blanking it off but I wish I had used a smear of sealer on both inlet and exhaust to make sure it sealed correctly. The existing gaskets are both the type designed to collapse and seal so wont be so effective the second time around. Also the 0.5mm SS blanking gasket is difficult to manufacture and keep flat. If you drill the 2 holes rather than stamp them out make sure you clamp the new gasket against a piece of wood and clamp close to the drill and use a pilot hole too. My first hole was a touch ragged but OK. The second one was just off centre so I angled the drill and nearly buggered the whole carefully snipped and filed creation in an instant as it went through. Lots of tapping and filing saved the day. It's difficult to check for leaks because the most pressure would be under power and brushing soapy water on the joints while someone blips the throttle is less than convincing. Best to leave off the little lugs that are on the original gasket so all that can be seen is that old gasket. If the 3.2 is the same as the 2.5 and has the 4 bolts on the inlet connection then putting them back in the same positions will at least line up all those pink dobs of paint and complete the stealth side of the operation. You only need to loosen the top bolts if you are going to re-tighten that joint without sealer.
So my GLX-R had its 1500km service today, so as soon as i got home i cracked out the 12mm spanner and pulled out the ERG metal gasket and traced it for a template for my 0.5mm shim blank off plate. I believe those stooges at the dealer wont have a clue ive slipped it in. Ill post a pic of my plate tomorrow arvo before i chuck it in and give my impressions and seat of the pants dyno results...
You might need to give it a few km before you notice the difference and that could be the computer adapting in the range up to 2500rpm. Anyway, well done for giving it a go and I'm interested to know your impressions. Even if it was the same we have the satisfaction of knowing the inlet manifold wont get any more crap in it but I'm sure mine is much improved at low rpm and it pulls like a train, even at partial throttle.
Well the way i see it, Below 2500rpm the ERG valve is OPEN... and exhaust gass is bypassing through the pipe and not into the turbocharger... So with it blanked off the full exhaust flow is going into the turbo giving a better bottom end responce..
My Blanking plate was made out of 1mm shim material and i simply slid it into position on the pipe side of the flange leaving the stock gasket with tangs in it standard spot. I put no tangs on my blanking shim so it is stelth. I Also put a whisker of flange sealant on it both sides for good measure but not enough to squeeze any out to be obvious.
The Fit turned out to be perfect and i believe 99.9% undetectable by the stealer. I have also spotted the bolt heads with white paint marker factory style so it looks completly normal....
The RESULTS.. Wow, A worthwhile modification. The turbo is way more responsive, I mean way more. The slight hole you fall into of turbo lag when stock is more or less gone. I would say it now has NO lag present now. If it were to have a before and after dyno run im sure there would be a new hump below 2500rpm where the ERG would be bypassing the exhaust gas.
Also no Engine Check Light at all and im sure it will no come any time. I cant see how it is detectable. The ERG valve opperation is normal, but nothing passes through it. There are no pressure switches in the ERG circuit so it is basically a non event.
I am now pleased my inlet no longer recieves sooty hot poison . Only fresh filtered compressed air...
My Stealth instalation with factory style white markings on bolt heads..
Last edited by GLX-R Alex on Thu Aug 06, 2009 5:01 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Great result! Perhaps mine had a slight leak because I fitted it up dry and it took a few hundred km for the exhaust to seal it up? I did mine at about 3,000km and took the complete assembly off with the EGR valve, there was already a ring of carbon building up on the hole through the exhaust side gasket. Be careful in the rain.
With an alloy tray there's not much weight over the back wheels. Even with the LSD it can spin both back wheels in 2nd gear at 20-30kph in a straight line on part throttle. With the extra power it might do it in 3rd now, in the wet and that could be bad news at 60kph with my reaction time slowing down? It's that punch when it boosts now, almost too much at times![must be getting old]
The one i made was mild steel 1mm, because i belive the end cylinder exhaust port looks like its shooting directly at it. So i was worried 0.5 may burn through. I supose i could make some up. I have a big roll of 1mm shim.
I blocked my egr off the other week n wld say iam impressed with the amount of power produced below 2200 rpm before blocking off my triton was really doughy below this but now pulls well from about 1600rpm and after 1 tank of fuel finally got 500 km from a tank about 12.5ltr to the 100 have had no problems with the engine light coming on so far and cant see any reason for it to come on anyways