rust protection? !

[patrolus]

hey guys!
since the car is nearly a week old it is time to think about the annoying things....how to best protect it from the salty air when beach camping/driving.....
tint a car offer a bitumen based "wet rust protection" at the same price as their electronic rust protection module (tint in midnight express and wet protection or electronic module for $595) as i am not a big fan (believer) in the elctronic stuff and my previous attempts
(-no1 was fishoilene on my 80 series. i let it dry for 6 weeks before heading on a 3 month trip, but still all the dust got stuck on the fishoilene -it def felt touch dry, but obviously it was still sticky enough to catch all the dust .not to mention the fishy smell
-no2 was lanolin marine grade on my patrol. that worked out even worse, as even sand got stuck on it and turned the whole thing in to sanding-paper, rubbing off the paint wherever things had a chance to touch. not to mention the now sheepy smell
kind of didn't satisfied me, i was wondering what you guys do/use to protect ur pride n joy??

my first idea was to just use the hotwax spray gun at the local carwash and "sink" the whole underbody as good as possible in that hotwax stuff.... but then i got that offer from tint a car when asking for the window tint.....

any experiences with either the bitumen or the hotwax???--or an even better solution????

cheers, sash

[Blue]

Wash regularly...!!! - I have the distinct advantage of being able to use recycled water at work though...

My old Rocky spent every other weekend down at Robe (SA), driving in the dunes and playing in the water... I used to leave a sprinkler running under it at work for about 8 hours, moving it a little bit whenever I walked past - that old bus was punished like this for nearly 4 years before I sold it without so much as a hint of rust...

[ag9111]

Drive it, Abuse it, sell it

[borngeek]

Drive it, Abuse it, sell it

you read my mind mate!

x2

[RHKTriton]

I gave my old Rocky the treatment - Fisholene in every cavity I could get to, then bitumen paint and anti corrosion body deadener over it and all inner cavities.

After a trip to Fraser Island, I spent $30 bucks ( '86 price) at Eumundie (spelling?) with a high pressure cleaner and thought everything should be OK.

Several years later - still vacuumed out sand and little pin pricks of rust started appearing. I washed and waxed this unit nearly every weekend!

The guy who bought it off me had a panel shop strip the paint back to metal and repainted the whole body and a few years later it started showing rust spots again.

On the other hand - I ran into him a few days ago and its still on the road, just had an engine rebuild ticking over 400k. And he "uses" it.

Back to topic - the promo for the electronic rust protection seems to make a good case. If it works then at least all components should be safe. Sometimes covering metal will allow corrosion to occur unseen where the layer has broken down.

I will vouch for the fisholene as we had a boat trailer years ago - not galvanised and it rusted severely after one season. We stripped it, fish oiled it and finished off with aluminised bitumen paint. Lasted with only minor spots of rust for over twenty years!!

To close - the quality of the steel has also improved heaps over the last few years, with many vehicles also having galvanised bodies or critical areas galvanised.

[Greedy]

Drive it, Abuse it, sell it

you read my mind mate!

x2

Note to self: Don't buy a car from these guys.

[Dylan 191]

Drive it, Abuse it, sell it

Unless you want to keep the car for 20 years.

[NitroGLXRin]

all these rust protection products are secondary prevention. First and formost prevention is your paintwork. Any chips, scratches etc down to raw metal should be fixed asap. The word OXIDISATION is the key. Stop oxygen reaching the surface and it will never rust.

I have Mitsu's electronic rust protection with a lifetime warranty. There primary conditions are that chips, scrathces etc are fixed within 30days and that the vehicle is inspected (free) every 12months. So basically if this is done then very little chance of ever making a claim. However, the places you carnt see is where this warranty is worth it, eg inside of the chassis rails. So regardless of wether the electronic protection works or not, you still need paint as primary protection.

my 2c anyways

[patrolus]

oh, so mitsu offer something like that???
gotta ask my stealer about it!
guess that warranty is good to have, my patrol started rusting on some panels from underneath the paint, no scratches etc. in the paintwork. just bad metal/bad prep work from factory. (mind u, when i sold it, it was only 14 months out of warranty, so not an old car...AND always washed and waxed....)

[NitroGLXRin]

yeh they have it but pretty sure you can only get it on new vehicles.

yeh the corrosion under the paint is pitting corrosion, blistery looking paintwork. Caused by contaminates before or during painting. Another good benefit of the warranty as nothing will stop this (assuming the electric protection doesnt work, I keep saying this as I have heard from a few sources that it would only work with a continuos thin layer of moisture over the chassis.)

[Blue]

From 4WDAction:

I am a Cathodic Protection Technician and have been assessed by the Australian Corrosion Association. Without boring everybody with the theory, these devices cannot work!!!

For these devices to work, anything ferrous that you wish to protect must be kept between 0.85 and 1.1 volts more negative (when measured with a copper/copper sulphate reference cell) than the cathode trying to protect it. The cathode must be able to "impress" a current into the bodywork, brakes etc.

If the vehicle is negative earthed, how are you going to make the rest of it more negative? What medium do you use to impress the current into the metal of the vehicle?

Sorry folks, these devices will not work unless the vehicle is completely emersed in some kind of conductive material like soil or a conductive electrolyte.

Don't waste your money, just wash the vehicle regularly.

This is almost word for work the explanation I got from an electrical engineer after I had it fitted to our old Falcon...

[NitroGLXRin]

Yeh, I actually told the mitsu sales people that i didnt think they worked, they said "realy???? It has a lifetime warranty!" then my jaw dropped and I read the conditions and made the purchase.

[tokirky]

You just got me thinking again Blue, I had ERPS on my Rodeo for 8 years with no rust and plenty of beach work....maybe i just wasked it good enought??? surely these modules must help???
I am/was on the glory stroke of getting one for the triton....

[Blue]

It's a tough one, tokirky, I had a '95 falcon wagon with ERPS which was washed regularly and didn't rust parked next to an '85 Rocky with no ERPS that spent half it's life at Robe both in the surf and the sand dunes, was washed regularly and didn't rust... Does ERPS work...??? fawked if I know but clearly regular thorough washing has a similar effect...

[al coholic]

I would tend to think that the thorough washing would have a fair chance of stopping the rust. Your car isnt going to start rusting the second it sees salt or sand because you have gone for a day trip on the beach.........but leave that salt sitting there for 6 months and its probably a different story!!

Sprinkler under the car ah Blue...........Sydney water would crusify me for that i think.

[Blue]

I would tend to think that the thorough washing would have a fair chance of stopping the rust. Your car isnt going to start rusting the second it sees salt or sand because you have gone for a day trip on the beach.........but leave that salt sitting there for 6 months and its probably a different story!!

Sprinkler under the car ah Blue...........Sydney water would crusify me for that i think.

Yeah lucky to have recycled water at hand, Al...

[smouch1975]

I just sold a 5 year old car, that had electronic rust protection from new.
It had a spot of rust under the rear window, a stone chip, that simply rusted out.

IMO ERP don't work!

[RHKTriton]

Fish don't rust!!

[MattE]

Hi all.
I've looked but can't find a topic that specificly discusses rust prevention. I'm likely to be doing some beach driving this year and am interested in different options.

I currently have an electronic rust prevention system installed but I am positive that won't be 100% on every section of the vehicle. I'm considering lanolin or fishoil spray for the chassis and undercarrage but was wondering if anyone here has found a "home remedy" that they use?

I've heard that the rangers on Bribie Island us a mixture of Peanut Oil and Diesel and spray it all over the undercarrage every so often. Anyone else heard of this?

Cheers,
Matt

[MattE]

This thread from Exploroz is an interesting read.
http://www.exploroz.com/Forum/Topic/280 ... anted.aspx

MattE

[RHKTriton]

I'm thinking of doing fish oil thru all the chassis sections and under body areas. Once cured the bitumen.

A boat trailer done years ago survived for many years without any significant rust after this process.

The problem I see with ERP is how it can work when the vehicle is away from the water.

[hvac guy]

I have it and rate it I have a counteract aka coupler tech 6 pad system not going to go on
But ive had cars without out and I can see the difference.

[RHKTriton]

It probably works best around coastal areas and where there's plenty of exposure to sea water, spray and mist as this would allow the charge applied by the erp to have the greatest effect.

[MattE]

It probably works best around coastal areas and where there's plenty of exposure to sea water, spray and mist as this would allow the charge applied by the erp to have the greatest effect.

I agree. I'm not near the sea normaly so I'm probably going to spray my ute with a 50/50 solution of dieles and peanut oil. The peanut oil is supposed to creep into all of the "nooks and crannies" and seal off any potential rust areas.

[fridgie]

What's a dieles??