Replacing Front Brake Pads

[AussieAnth]

No one has missed the point. He states
"They go into great detail about cleaning the hub mounting bracket and hub surface, to remove surface rust, and also using a dial gauge to check for hub run-out. They also go through resetting the caliper by disconnecting the brake line to flush some fluid...

If he is going to release the hose off the back of the caliper, bleeding IS necessary. This is the part he seems unsure about. And, without bleeding the system, it won't stop, ( until you hit something ), requiring the tow.
Please read the whole story, and don't encourage dangerous behavior.

Steve[/quote]

Hi Steve

I may have mis-lead you slightly. In the video they do a partial bleed. I should not have said "disconnect" the brake line. They use a line clamp, open the bleed valve, push the calipers open, and bleed out some fluid. My bad.

If you watch the video they simply unbolt the caliper and carefully hang it up out of the way (placing great emphasis on not hanging it by the brake line). This is what I've always done, and what I plan on doing.

At no point have I mentioned disconnecting the brake lines on my Triton. I only want to swap out rotors & pads.

I'm well aware that once you disconnect a brake line, you introduce air into the lines, and the whole system needs to be bled. I'm not willing to attempt this, nor have I suggested as such. Quite the opposite.

I appreciate you trying to wave the safety flag, albeit with a bit too much gusto. I simply wanted to ask the group if anyone's done a rotor swap out, had any advice or experiences to share, and if anyone thought I would expect to get issues with run out or bleeding.

[ag9111]

My questions were more about whether I would likely need to:
a) bleed the brakes at all, since the vehicle has only done 7,000kms
b) need to use a gauge to check for hub run-out.

No and no
You aren't interfering with the pressure in the brake lines by swapping pads if just pushing pistons back with a clamp, no need to bleed unless you feel there is more of an issue right now

I think a lot of blokes here have missed the point of your questions

No one has missed the point. He states
"They go into great detail about cleaning the hub mounting bracket and hub surface, to remove surface rust, and also using a dial gauge to check for hub run-out. They also go through resetting the caliper by disconnecting the brake line to flush some fluid...

If he is going to release the hose off the back of the caliper, bleeding IS necessary. This is the part he seems unsure about. And, without bleeding the system, it won't stop, ( until you hit something ), requiring the tow.
Please read the whole story, and don't encourage dangerous behavior.

Steve

Seems you have missed the point Donks1. I suggest you reread Aussieanth's question above.

AussieAnth, No you do not need to bleed the brakes at all as the brake fluid would not have absorbed any noticeable water at this stage. You will not need to drain any fluid from the system.
The reservoir will return to full as you have not lost any fluid, just be careful that you do not overfill the reservoir when you push the cylinder back.
No you will not need to check for hub runout on a vehicle that only has 7000km on it, UNLESS you have really been giving the OEM brakes curry and have heated them up.

[AussieAnth]

AussieAnth, No you do not need to bleed the brakes at all as the brake fluid would not have absorbed any noticeable water at this stage. You will not need to drain any fluid from the system.
The reservoir will return to full as you have not lost any fluid, just be careful that you do not overfill the reservoir when you push the cylinder back.
No you will not need to check for hub runout on a vehicle that only has 7000km on it, UNLESS you have really been giving the OEM brakes curry and have heated them up.

Thanks Ag, that, plus the other useful feedback I've received confirms what I hoped. Should be a straight forward job. I haven't flogged the brakes, I shouldn't see any hub run out issues.

Thanks for all the useful feedback lads!

[al coholic]

No one has missed the point. He states
"They go into great detail about cleaning the hub mounting bracket and hub surface, to remove surface rust, and also using a dial gauge to check for hub run-out. They also go through resetting the caliper by disconnecting the brake line to flush some fluid...

If he is going to release the hose off the back of the caliper, bleeding IS necessary. This is the part he seems unsure about. And, without bleeding the system, it won't stop, ( until you hit something ), requiring the tow.
Please read the whole story, and don't encourage dangerous behavior.

Steve

I did read the whole story

His question being "is doing all that extra work they detail in the video really necessary"??? He is not asking HOW to do it all FFS!!!

Here is a proper quote (unlike yours) below so you don't get confused again

I was planning on using a clamp to push the calipers back if necessary, and I'll clean the hub & rotor mount but don't expect to see much there.

That details the work he IS planning on doing......nothing about undoing brake lines is there.....and you'll notice the difference in that quote where it says "I" compared to your quote at the top of this post that continually says "they" when referring to undoing brake lines.....not "me" or "I"

That is the point YOU were missing mate....so don't sit there and carry on about how I am encouraging dangerous behaviour because I actually read his question, understood and answered correctly. Next time you want to accuse me of something like that, at least have your facts straight!!!!

[geoduck]

No one has missed the point. He states
"They go into great detail about cleaning the hub mounting bracket and hub surface, to remove surface rust, and also using a dial gauge to check for hub run-out. They also go through resetting the caliper by disconnecting the brake line to flush some fluid...

If he is going to release the hose off the back of the caliper, bleeding IS necessary. This is the part he seems unsure about. And, without bleeding the system, it won't stop, ( until you hit something ), requiring the tow.
Please read the whole story, and don't encourage dangerous behavior.

Steve

Hi Steve

I may have mis-lead you slightly. In the video they do a partial bleed. I should not have said "disconnect" the brake line. They use a line clamp, open the bleed valve, push the calipers open, and bleed out some fluid. My bad.

If you watch the video they simply unbolt the caliper and carefully hang it up out of the way (placing great emphasis on not hanging it by the brake line). This is what I've always done, and what I plan on doing.

At no point have I mentioned disconnecting the brake lines on my Triton. I only want to swap out rotors & pads.

I'm well aware that once you disconnect a brake line, you introduce air into the lines, and the whole system needs to be bled. I'm not willing to attempt this, nor have I suggested as such. Quite the opposite.

I appreciate you trying to wave the safety flag, albeit with a bit too much gusto. I simply wanted to ask the group if anyone's done a rotor swap out, had any advice or experiences to share, and if anyone thought I would expect to get issues with run out or bleeding.[/quote]

Hi
The reason they push the pistons back with the line clamped and bleed nipple open, is to protect the valves in the ABS pump. It is the recommended method for the NM Pajero on. And I would think is a wise precaution on any ABS equipped vehicle.
Modern braking systems have different requirements when servicing them. And it is wise to ask if there is any special issues/methods needed.

[Homer]

what a to do over a 15 minute easy repair.

I let the calipers hang by the brake line too...sometimes give them a bit of a kick too


It's quite difficult to get anything wrong on a Triton front pad and rotor change