Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby Zantus on Thu Dec 23, 2010 10:29 pm

My front left wheel arch flare doesn't want to stay on properly and has become a real irritation so decided to fix it!

The plastic clips get damaged quite easily and if the flare is damaged or cut for an aftermarket bumper, it doesn't really want to stay on. There are some bolts that keep it from falling off, but without the plastic clips it's always half falling off.

Here's a few pics of what I did.

Removed the flare and the lining inside the fender.
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With the flare removed you can see the holes in the fender.
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A typical damaged clip:
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I played around with a few different washer and bolt combinations to find something that will not only fit into the plastic clip's nest, but also give good support. I ended up with an M5 countersunk screw and a 6mm washer, which I glued into the flare to form a fixed stud.
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I put some pratley glue on the bolt and washer, and bolted it to the flare till the glue set.
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Afterwards I removed the nut and washer and put a bit more glue on, and ended with what you see here.
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The flare was then simply bolted to the fender with some nice big fender washers on the inside.
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Fender bolted back in place. I must still put the lining back, which will be a bit difficult with the flare in place and I will have to remove the wheel to get access to put it back.
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby steve1961 on Fri Dec 24, 2010 5:20 am

That looks like a good fix ... one of mine does the same thing next time ill give that a go insted of chasing around those bloody stupid little clips
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby Homer on Fri Dec 24, 2010 5:39 am

Thanks Zantus...good idea, something like what I did with my roll bar bolts when installing the hard liner in the tub.

Can you or anyone tell me the best/easiest way to remove the flares? I'm going to rip them off shortly for painting and haven't done it before and don't want to break the clips or anything....
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby NowForThe5th on Fri Dec 24, 2010 5:42 am

A good long term fix. Nyloc nuts are the go so you don't have to overtighten and risk breaking the mounting on the flare. Those clips are a real pain - very brittle and a quite tight fit but they are available from most auto parts places. We buy ours from a guy who comes around every month and specialises in this kind of thing and is much cheaper than just buying a few at a time.
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby Zantus on Fri Dec 24, 2010 5:53 am

I did get a bag of clips, but decided to go this way......the plastic clips are just horrible.

I should've have mentioned that I didn't use nyloc nuts for a reason. I'm afraid that the extra torque required to turn the nyloc nut will break away the epoxy glue while tightening or loosening the nut, so I will actually be fitting a second nut and lock the 2 nuts together and the chance of breaking the epoxy glue is much less.
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby salt36 on Fri Dec 24, 2010 6:06 am

Homer wrote:Thanks Zantus...good idea, something like what I did with my roll bar bolts when installing the hard liner in the tub.

Can you or anyone tell me the best/easiest way to remove the flares? I'm going to rip them off shortly for painting and haven't done it before and don't want to break the clips or anything....


Homer make sure the bolts are out and just pull the flare straight out away from the guard. It feels like you are about to break something and then the flare just pops out. I broke one of the plastic clips but as I was fitting bullbar didnt need it.

I read a thread on here about the plastic grille pieces and they are the same, a good amount of force required to remove them.

I found that with two hands near each plastic clip was less likely to break them. One at a time untill the flare is off :D
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby steve1961 on Fri Dec 24, 2010 6:32 am

I broke one when i fitted my snorkel ... and that was the side i was having the bottom one come unclipped ... but next time it does ill try this method to repair it
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Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby Diddy on Fri Dec 24, 2010 6:46 am

I just put stano screws in mine very rigid no come off now
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby NowForThe5th on Fri Dec 24, 2010 8:49 am

Homer wrote:Can you or anyone tell me the best/easiest way to remove the flares? I'm going to rip them off shortly for painting and haven't done it before and don't want to break the clips or anything....


Just pull straight out. I use a clip remover as well - saves a lot of broken clips and reduces the strain on the mounting point on the flare so you don't get broken mounts or imprint on the outside where the plastic has stretched. If you can get to the back of the clips you can use longnose pliers to squeeze the locking wings in.

Otherwise, as salt36 says.
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby Homer on Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:50 am

Thanks guys...easy to understand when you compare them to the grill clips as I was sure I was going to break something there...cheers! :D
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby snowman on Fri Dec 24, 2010 8:23 pm

DiD Power wrote:I just put stano screws in mine very rigid no come off now


yeah and it looks like kids Meccano set. :o :shock: :roll:

i looked at this as well but have one comment. as you know i busted two flares due to my superior driving skills (go on Bilbo you know you want to ;) ) at lithgow.

if the clips break easily then they save the flare mount in some cases. OK my rear one is a bin job but the front one looks to have popped off and prevented major damage (hoping). is there a risk that by strenghtening the fixing you will increase the chance of busting the flare and having to replace it when it may otherwise have just popped off...... :?: :?:

NowForThe5th wrote:A good long term fix. Nyloc nuts are the go so you don't have to overtighten and risk breaking the mounting on the flare. Those clips are a real pain - very brittle and a quite tight fit but they are available from most auto parts places. We buy ours from a guy who comes around every month and specialises in this kind of thing and is much cheaper than just buying a few at a time.


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Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby Diddy on Sat Dec 25, 2010 6:20 am

These clips are $3 each that's wat I got quoted from Mitsubishi
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby Zantus on Sat Dec 25, 2010 6:24 am

Snowman, I was asked the same question on our South African forum today and this was my reply

Well, there are already a few bolts on the arches, so if you do rip it off, you'll already be breaking it. Having it bolted on like this will prevent the arch from being ripped off easily, and prevent breaking the existing bolting points.

I've just had enough of the silly plastic clips and that's why I went through the effort to do this.


I did however hear that the additional bolts on my flares, which will break the flare before it just pops off, was a South African addition and the flares on vehicles built in Thailand, are only held in place with plastic clips. Anyone know if this is true?

In my second last picture you can see a plastic bracket that is pop riveted to the flare and bolts into the fender. That bracket or the flare will have to break before my flare will just come off.
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby Zantus on Sat Dec 25, 2010 6:28 am

DiD Power wrote:These clips are $3 each that's wat I got quoted from Mitsubishi


All my bolts, washers and nuts were about $3.
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby DocBassett on Fri Aug 23, 2013 3:18 pm

Cheers Tex. Ive got one to go. So far I've gone with the yank method and only broken 1 clip which may or may not have had an argument with a drill and drill bit.
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby DocBassett on Fri Aug 23, 2013 3:19 pm

Click to view larger pictureall painted and ready to go? :lol::lol::lol:
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby DocBassett on Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:55 pm

Hey guys, so turns out i'm never going to be a painter anytime soon. The flares haven't quite turned out the way i'd have liked them. The top clear coat hasn't gone on very well. it looks quite blotchy/patchy. I did 4 very light coats of clear about 20 mins apart. the fist clear went on 30 mins after the last black coat. i'll post a photo up shortly. Anyone know where i went wrong and what the solution is?? one flare needs to be sanded back again and repainted as my mate tried to fix it by spraying the clear on very thick and close, resulting in runs. But i just don't know what caused the patchyness. some areas are shiny and metallic, others are dull looking. The paint appeared to go on very very well. looked even.
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby DocBassett on Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:59 pm

Click to view larger pictureClick to view larger pictureClick to view larger picture
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby NowForThe5th on Mon Aug 26, 2013 10:55 pm

Acrylic clear can be difficult at the best of times, Mitch. Using a spray can to apply it just compounds the problems because there simply isn't enough atomisation. Assuming that your base coat was OK then your 30 minutes flash should be just fine. When using a spray can for clear you need to get in a bit closer, about 150mm and apply wet and fast so you don't get runs. One coat with 40-50% overlap. Practice on some scrap first until you get the technique right. With a gun I can put it on a lot thinner but still wet - that's hard with a spray can. Either way, don't put it on dry, that will just make it worse as you build up coats.

10 minutes flash between coats at 20 deg C should be fine. You want it still just a little tacky. Minimum 2 coats, preferably 4 - acrylic is very low solids so it won't be very thick when it dries. Usually acrylic needs wetsanding and buffing for best results.
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby DocBassett on Tue Aug 27, 2013 8:42 am

Cheers heaps Chris. So what would be the best course of action? Starting all over again?? If so, is there a need to sand back, or can I just paint over the top?
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby Raz89 on Tue Aug 27, 2013 8:55 am

I'm no expert but I'd suggest sanding back. You'll never fully be able to correct a botched paint job without sanding it back first in my opinion.
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby Raz89 on Tue Aug 27, 2013 8:57 am

Gives the best starting template and a much higher possibilty for success
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby NowForThe5th on Tue Aug 27, 2013 9:22 am

DocBassett wrote:Cheers heaps Chris. So what would be the best course of action? Starting all over again?? If so, is there a need to sand back, or can I just paint over the top?


Yes, sanding it back is best. Finish to P400 wet if you're going to prime it (necessary if you go back to plastic) and then sand your primer with P800 wet ready for base coat.
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby DocBassett on Tue Aug 27, 2013 10:54 am

No worries. I'll just give it a light sand to even up the clear coat and then start again. Bummer.
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Re: Wheel Arch Flare Mods

Postby DocBassett on Tue Aug 27, 2013 9:26 pm

NowForThe5th wrote:Acrylic clear can be difficult at the best of times, Mitch. Using a spray can to apply it just compounds the problems because there simply isn't enough atomisation. Assuming that your base coat was OK then your 30 minutes flash should be just fine. When using a spray can for clear you need to get in a bit closer, about 150mm and apply wet and fast so you don't get runs. One coat with 40-50% overlap. Practice on some scrap first until you get the technique right. With a gun I can put it on a lot thinner but still wet - that's hard with a spray can. Either way, don't put it on dry, that will just make it worse as you build up coats.

10 minutes flash between coats at 20 deg C should be fine. You want it still just a little tacky. Minimum 2 coats, preferably 4 - acrylic is very low solids so it won't be very thick when it dries. Usually acrylic needs wetsanding and buffing for best results.
hey chris, what do you mean by wet sanding and buffing for best results? When do I do this part??
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