Non-hubcentric Rims

[Joe]

Blues old man was told if he didn't have hubrings on his steelies they wouldn't insure him I was also told by a large alloy wheel supplier that I didn't need hubrings either on my alloys of all things . Before reading blues post didnt realise such a beast existed.

Ran a Paj for 5 years on non hubcentric alloy rims without any problems. I wonder if this is all a bit of a storm in a teacup?

[eroled]

If you start getting steering wheel wobbler at 80-120kmh and you have just put new rims and tyres on and dont have hub rings you will need them, but if you dont get wobble why bother. I get wobble at 110kmh but it goes away at 160kmh , my wheels are very heavy tho , the hubrings are on order arrive next week ,hope it sorts out the wobble or ill have to drive faster.

[ratstriton]

I'm Buying steel wheels at the moment, and the place i have been buying wheels and tyre's from for nearly 20 year's have said to me spacer's for non hubcentric steel wheel's are not avaliable from dynamic.

[Joe]

I'm Buying steel wheels at the moment, and the place i have been buying wheels and tyre's from for nearly 20 year's have said to me spacer's for non hubcentric steel wheel's are not avaliable from dynamic.

From what I've been told rats, steel wheels are not designed to be hubcentric but rather lugcentric so hub rings (spacers are illegal) are not available from any manufacturer

I would love to be proved wrong though

[4wd26]

I have been doing a little research into this.

looks like in the "old days" of manual hubs the wheels were hub centric.

these days, with auto hubs the wheels are located by the studs, as there is just no need for the manual locking hub to exist.

So Alloys need to be checked to see if they have a taper in the stud hole and accept wheel nuts that fit this taper. look at the triton alloy and studs to see what I mean.

I have just bought a set of toyota alloys (Prado 90 series) and the exact same nut style is used with these, so I'm ok.

But be careful with other aftermarket alloys that may have been designed differently, or make sure you use the tapered nuts (triton style)

[Uberwolfe]

Hey all,

Firstly let me apologize if this is answered elsewhere on the forums. I have done a search and couldn't find a specific answer.

I've just had some Sunraysia 16s and a set of Desert Dueler A/Ts installed on my 2012 MN Triton.

Everything was fine until about a week later I was on the highways and noticed a fair vibration over about 110km/h. I figured it was a balancing issue so I took it my local GoodYear to have them sort the problem.

They tell me that they have had "all sorts of problems" with Tritons specifically and the Sunraysia rims, and basically I would need a new set of wheels because these were not compatible with my vehicle. I find this very unlikely as I see heaps of Tritons getting around with the Sunraysias, and the guys who sold and fitted them said I would have no worries.

I heard that some spacers or hub-centric rings may be required but was told by GoodYear that they can't get them in for the specific wheel...?

I rang up another tyre place who said that the Sunraysias need to be "centered as best as possible by hand" and no spacers or rings would be needed..

I seem to be getting conflicting stories here, can any of you guys who have had experience with Sunraysias on your Tritons offer some advice how best to get them sorted?

I'm heading out into the bush at the end of the month and obviously want to have all this sorted!

For reference, these are the exact rims I have fitted:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171243090429 ... 4bb1f&cp=1

Any help hugely appreciated,

Cheers,
Lukas

[Quinny]

Mate. Welcome to the site

I'm no expert on rims / tyres but there's plenty of blokes on here that are. Spacers sound dodgy to me and is probably not a great idea, but like I said, someone will get in here and sort you out

Enjoy the reading, maybe have a look here too:

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=8337


Q

[NowForThe5th]

Uberwolfe, I've merged your post into this thread but there are quite a number of others that cover your problem.

Read the preceding posts and, for more information, try here.

[Uberwolfe]

Mate. Welcome to the site

I'm no expert on rims / tyres but there's plenty of blokes on here that are. Spacers sound dodgy to me and is probably not a great idea, but like I said, someone will get in here and sort you out

Enjoy the reading, maybe have a look here too:

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=8337

Q

Thanks for welcome Quinny

So I read above that if I get the wobble at 110km/h I should get the rings? I notice that quite for a few posts in this thread are fairly old - is there any location that can still happily supply the rings?

Sorry for the noob questions, the world of ODs and IDs and Hubcentric/Lugcentric is all kinda new to me

[fridgie]

Did you change wheel nuts with the rims? Never had an issue with mine....

Always finger tighten as much as possible ensuring correct seating of the nut to the rim. Never used spacers.

[Uberwolfe]

Did you change wheel nuts with the rims? Never had an issue with mine....

Always finger tighten as much as possible ensuring correct seating of the nut to the rim. Never used spacers.

Hey Fridgie, nope they just used the factory nuts. I'll take the wheels off today and see if I can sort it out myself.

[fridgie]

If you had alloys you're better off getting different wheel nuts, not sure if you had steelies from factory if the nuts will match the new rims.

Getting the wheels 'finger balanced' has helped a few others out too.

[salt36]

Hmm....
I had the same issue, wobble in the steering, vibration all round at different speeds and it would come and go randomly.

Mate when you take a rim off and put it back on take note of the very inside of the hub part (where it contacts the Triton hub)

What you are looking for is any deflection of the inner part of the rim as you tighten the wheel nuts. I didn't notice mine until I bought a rattle gun and because it was quick to do up/undo I could see the deflection. Mine were moving a good millimetre or more...

I presumed that because the wheel nut holes were not evenly spaced compared to the wheel spokes (for want of a better word) that the rim was being distorted when it was on the hub. I noticed this on the two sets of steel rims I purchased, every wheel was the same.

My solution was to throw them away and buy alloy rims, now have no issues with the two sets of tyres I had on the steel rims.

[Uberwolfe]

Thanks for the info salt

New rims were pretty much what the guys at GoodYear were saying... said they had a Triton in there 4 times recently with the same problem, only way it was remedied was with alloys. To be honest I thought they were just trying to flog me a new set of wheels haha.

I just took the Triton down to my local Bob Jane to see if they could offer any advice. The bloke seemed know exactly what the issue was. They threw it on the hoist and re-did the nuts. Said something about a correct sequence?

Drove it home on the freeway and lo-and-behold no vibration. Like you say though, previously it did seem to come and go a bit so I'll see what happens over the next week. Hopefully this has it sorted.. I honestly didn't expect any complications chucking on a set of Sunnies...

[Cowboy Dave]

Yeah the tightening pattern is important. It's all about getting the studs dead centre of the holes and the nuts are what pulls them into place.

[flatcountrymick]

I bought new nuts. Got them from autoarn IIRC No issues with my non c entric steel sunraysias yet.