First, some generic terms I will use:
Using factory upper and lower control arms, the travel window at the hub will be 0% @ full bump (compression) and 100% will be full extension, both minus the rubber bump stops (metal to metal contact).
When I refer to “General” or “Generally”, I will mean a flexible application to a number of vehicles/manufacturers.
OK.
First, in order to keep this simple, I won’t go into too much detail of the Triton IFS, as most of us already know what we are dealing with. There are a few things that are specific to this and the main ones are the limited amount of travel, how best to use this and how do we go about improving it.
SPACERS:
Spacers have their place in this discussion, but probably not for the right reasons. I’ll explain. Imagine a arc of travel that the A arm IFS the Triton has travels through from bump to extension. Bump = 0% and Extension = 100% (remember, no rubber bump stops). Generally, MOST manufacturers run ride height at approx. 45 to 60% in that window on their IFS. Adding bull bars/winches, etc. will change that as weight is added. Generally, harder rate/longer springs/torsion bars are used to bring the ride height back to factory or a little higher. The factory damper has a certain window of travel, dictated by the length of the stem and body (piston chamber) length. This is designed to fit into that arc of travel I mentioned previously, with a few mm of extra travel available at both 0 and 100%. That way, the frame mounted bump stops prevent anything from going solid anywhere in the travel window.
Now, insert the spacer. Placing a spacer at the top of the coil strut ass’y moves the dampers travel range into a different position in the IFS’s travel arc. A small (20 – 25mm) spacer is all that is needed to bring the 0% value of the damper right up to (and sometimes exceeding) the 0% value of the IFS. IF you are lucky, the difference will be absorbed by the rubber bushing(s) at the top and bottom of the damper. Now insert a larger (35 – 50mm) spacer and you start to get the picture. NOW, the dampers travel value is in a completely different position and now interferes with the IFS travel value. When the damper reaches 0%, the IFS is still at 15 – 20% and something has to give. The first big hit shears through the lower damper pivot bushing at the LCA (lower control arm) mounting bolt and crushes out the rubber bushings at the top. This gives a few % but now its MTM (metal to metal). The next big hit fully compresses the factory bump stop and the damper is past 0% and into self destruct. USUALLY, the lower bushing ring shears off the damper body and suddenly, no suspension. I’ve personally seen broken lower damper mountings and bolts, bent/broken LCAs and ball joints, bent frame mounts and frames and all manner of destruction resulting from using a spacer and the damper going solid. If I’ve missed anything here, feel free to add on.
LIFT SPRINGS:
Do the same thing as spacers, except the position of the damper travel value doesn’t change in relation to the IFS travel arc. However, the ride height is now in the 75 – 90% of the IFS travel arc and the droop travel has been dramatically reduced. That’s the trade-off with any kind of lift. Without modifying the bumps stops on the frame, we only have a limited window of travel to use.
When faced with limited travel, my policy has always been to have the best QUALITY travel I can get. That means find the BEST dampers I can afford, paired with the best coil rate I require for my application. Ultimate appears to have this well worked out, and full credit to them.
OPTIONS:
Not many, I’m afraid. Stefanos’ idea with the modified UCA’s has merit, but for Aussie roads and insurance, unless someone comes up with a fully compliant conversion, it’s outlaw time (run them if you dare). One option is to CAREFULLY move the UCA bump stop down on the frame 10mm and make it look as factory as possible. That will gain a small improvement in droop, allowing a safety margin on the lower BJ and outer CV. I’m a big fan of FOX Racing Shox. A 2.0 or 2.5 coil over in the correct length will enhance travel and damping, with the option of almost infinite tuning of the valve pack on the piston. FOX dampers are rebuildable and their tunablility and could enhance the IFS ‘performance to new heights. The ability to SEPERATELY valve compression and rebound (extension) gives a lot of new possibilities.
The last option is go wider. Longer UCAs and LCAs are available for Slobota, Missan, etc in USA, as well as several other local and imported small trucks over there. I personally would shy away from anything suspension wise made in Thailand, due to quality concerns with the welding I’ve seen on some of those parts.
My plans? Assuming MMAL walk away from my warranty, the sky is the limit. I’m looking at FOX 2.0 remote res coil-overs for the front, with Hypercoil springs and dual limit straps (plan to remove the factory UCA bump stop). I pair of FOX 2.5 3 tube bypass remote res dampers for the rear with softer multileaf spring packs and limit straps for smooth travel. Who knows? Later I might start building a 3” wider long travel front IFS kit for mine and see what happens? I’ll use steel 50mm spacers on the rear wheels to bring them out and maybe even make some plugs for wider guards and bedsides. I’m crazy enough to try.
PS: Forgive me if I rambled a bit. I’m 1 week out of gall bladder removal and the meds do screw me up a little
