Suspension lift....shudder

[ratzy]

thanks Greedy... yeah i did it at lunch time and it looks like my shudder is a thing of the past... i think there is still i tiny bit but i am sure that will dissapear as the springs settle a little more

[Greedy]

thanks Greedy... yeah i did it at lunch time and it looks like my shudder is a thing of the past... i think there is still i tiny bit but i am sure that will dissapear as the springs settle a little more

No probs mate.

[craige16]

hey guys going to be lifting my truck soon just wondering is the shudder likely to ruin anything in a week or so if im not able to purchase a tail shaft spacer im going to rotate the center bearing when i lift it anyway

[NowForThe5th]

Unlikely it will do any damage in the short term, probably even long term, since it's only when first starting off from a standstill. Just go through the steps until it's gone or reduced to the point where you can live with it, if you even get it at all.

[fridgie]

Mine is still slightly there, I've been lifted for a few years now with no ill effects thus far

Was a little while before I fitted the tail shaft spacer too from memory

[Bigbirdalx]

hey guys going to be lifting my truck soon just wondering is the shudder likely to ruin anything in a week or so if im not able to purchase a tail shaft spacer im going to rotate the center bearing when i lift it anyway

If u r reallt worried. Bout 300kgs in the rear should reduce it :p

[brodical]

Defeat the purpose of lifting in the first place...

[Bigbirdalx]

Defeat the purpose of lifting in the first place...

He was asking if he can wait a week with a lifted car before the spacer goes in because hes worried of damage.

And most people install lifts to accomadate the extra weight going in the rear anyway, so in a way it doesnt defeat the purpose

[brodical]

Hardly practical though..

[Cowboy Dave]

Entirely practical. All he's suggesting is a temporary measure until the guy can do the other mods if he needs to. If sticking 300kg in the back stops the shudder why isn't that a perfectly sensible temporary step? I carry more than that permanently anyway... I don't know why you have to wade in with negative comments in a discussion that had zero to do with you in the first place. I hope you're not trying to start a fight with bird or something.

[mattz]

Defeat the purpose of lifting in the first place...

It would also help settle the springs.

[brodical]

Yeah spose it would

[jayse]

i have a 2013 mn glx manual with an efs lift kit-25mm.
dont worry about that shudder on take off, it's harmless. the problem is castor between the centre bearing and rear diff. You can not get rid of it entirely however it is minimised with a few castor wedges in the rear. My MN has 5000 km on it and the lift has been in since day 2 with no problems of any kind or damage. In truth the kit lifted the whole car about 40mm over factory due to the stock gear being weaker than the french army. I run 100kg constant load springs front and 150kg leafs and could not be happier with the mitsi. NOTE TO ALL READERS the front has some severe limits when lifting, on level ground i am on the down travel bumpstop. The measurement from wheel arch to centre hub is 600mm and if you have read this right i have no more down travel. The reason is the bumpstop is preventing the cv from reaching to steep of an angle which is a bloody good thing. If you want your mn to sit level (roughly) keep the back end around 620mm. All i can say is efs gear has turned my triton in to a completely new rig.

[biggibbo]

Maybe do some research before posting. You are referring to a GLX which has different spring/strut combo to the other models so the info will be slightly different. Those heights also sound a little high, and riding on the upper bumps tops sounds silly.

[peterclark57]

I had a 50mm (2inch) lift kit put in mine, straight away i got the shudder when taking off and no other time.
I tried the wedges slight improvement but still shuddering.
I go on to a company called www.driveline.com.au in Brendale, Brisbane.

They make Triton one piece tail shafts for $350, got it made put on bingo, tail shaft shudder disappeared.

I asked what causes it as it in the increased angle, but they said no thats not the problem.
They told me what causes the shudder is when you increase the angle with the lift and the higher lift you go the worst it will get, is that the rear tail shaft is further away from the centre cuppling there by stretching the rubber inside thus causing the shudder.

anyway thats what they said and i happier i no shudder no more
cheers
Peter

[Bigbirdalx]

I had a 50mm (2inch) lift kit put in mine, straight away i got the shudder when taking off and no other time.
I tried the wedges slight improvement but still shuddering.
I go on to a company called http://www.driveline.com.au in Brendale, Brisbane.

They make Triton one piece tail shafts for $350, got it made put on bingo, tail shaft shudder disappeared.

I asked what causes it as it in the increased angle, but they said no thats not the problem.
They told me what causes the shudder is when you increase the angle with the lift and the higher lift you go the worst it will get, is that the rear tail shaft is further away from the centre cuppling there by stretching the rubber inside thus causing the shudder.

anyway thats what they said and i happier i no shudder no more
cheers
Peter

Yes and no.
u can make up the hap with a 20mm spacer (i got from dobinsons at brendale) which will reduce. Or u can go a one piece.
Is that 350 total? Or 350 plus install?
I got qouted 550 on the southside

[NowForThe5th]

They told me what causes the shudder is when you increase the angle with the lift and the higher lift you go the worst it will get, is that the rear tail shaft is further away from the centre cuppling there by stretching the rubber inside thus causing the shudder.

The reason for the shudder is well known and this isn't it. The shudder is caused by the difference in the angles between the front and rear universal joints on the shaft between the centre bearing and the diff. With a lift the angles can go beyond the ideal so that, when at rest the angles are too great. The difference is quite small and this is why, in many vehicles, even 100kg in the back can make the shudder disappear.

While a one piece tailshaft may fix the shudder problem, depending on model it may cause further problems by hitting the crossmember when at full droop. For manuals with Easy Select this is particularly so and the best choice is to relocate the centre bearing downwards.This changes the angle just enough to eliminate the shudder in almost all instances. It is usually a better solution also for those vehicles with longer drivelines and two piece tailshafts as well because it retains the two piece configuration which the factory put there for good reason. It's also generally cheaper than converting to a one-piece tailshaft.

[Kegsy]

On your tailshaft all opposite angles must be equal with the input and output ends also being equal. This creates balance and results in smooth power transfer.

Once the angles don't match you introduce vibration. The problem is changing the angle at the leafs helps slightly but it doesn't change anything up the front near the carrier bearing and gearbox.

The only solution on the two piece is to change the angle at the carrier bearing. There are a few ways to go about it, with varying levels of difficulty.

[Bling]

I have tried turning centre bearing upside down, tail shaft spacer, wedges in rear springs but no different.
Ultimate suspension are currently making a revised centre bearing which should be available early Jan

[Scubadan]

Hi all. Just an update - I recently fitted Ultimate Suspension to my 2008 Ml manual with the 2 piece driveline. The shudder appeared due to the increased angle & I noticed more resistance accelerating off the start. Tried rotating the centre bearing with no luck but as mentioned above Ultimate Suspension also now sell a 'dropped centre bearing'. We fitted this and it brought everything back to much better angles, the shudder is gone and the resistance I felt through the pedal on take off is all gone too. I recommend this as a worthy fix if you are looking for one and thanks to Ultimate Suspension for their support throughout - excellent after sales service!

[Triton newbie]

Hey guys,
Just realised that this thread was from 2008.. So wanted to check if people are still experiencing this shudder in the newer models and if the brands have improved their design. I am driving a 2010 me glxr manual. I have plans to put a 2inch lift and was thinking about trying to get another half inch to an inch on the back because that dam ass end keeps bottoming out! But from what I am reading the more level the car is the better so that might not be a wise idea

[Bigbirdalx]

Hey guys,
Just realised that this thread was from 2008.. So wanted to check if people are still experiencing this shudder in the newer models and if the brands have improved their design. I am driving a 2010 me glxr manual. I have plans to put a 2inch lift and was thinking about trying to get another half inch to an inch on the back because that dam ass end keeps bottoming out! But from what I am reading the more level the car is the better so that might not be a wise idea

Only affects manuals without super select. (Glr/glx)
So your fine

[Triton newbie]

Haha just realised there was more pages to this post but thanks for the reply.. That it is a relief

[fraz91]

Hey guys,
Just realised that this thread was from 2008.. So wanted to check if people are still experiencing this shudder in the newer models and if the brands have improved their design. I am driving a 2010 me glxr manual. I have plans to put a 2inch lift and was thinking about trying to get another half inch to an inch on the back because that dam ass end keeps bottoming out! But from what I am reading the more level the car is the better so that might not be a wise idea

From factory, the current model triton's have around 30mm of difference front to rear. The issue with the factory suspension is that the rear leaves quickly settle in the higher-specced models (GL-R and GLX-R), bringing the car back to level. This results in poor handling characteristics which are exacerbated when a load is placed in the tray. With your vehicle being a 2010 GLX-R (same as mine ) you won't have the shudder issue that a lot of the lower-specced vehicles get.

Ideally, a good aftermarket 2" suspension kit should lift the vehicle to trim heights of around 575mm in the front and 620mm in the rear (give or take 10mm). These heights allow good down-travel from the front suspension as the control arms are not riding on the bump-stops full time, as well as a 45mm difference from front to rear to allow for any loads placed on the vehicle (i.e. camping, touring, etc.) This height difference also allows for correct weight transfer under heavy or emergency braking, mainly when the vehicle is empty.

[dazz389]

Hi guys. I see this post and problem has been going on for a long time. I lifted my GLXR Manual 3.5 litre v6 Triton dual cab just over 50mm in the rear and experienced shudder strait away.
Have 95% overcome this by a combination of actions. The tail shaft centre is mounted over a fixed cross member, which makes lowering the shaft unsimple, compared to other setups.
I have fitted caster wedges between rear leaf spring and diff housing assembly to raise front of diff slightly. I have rotated centre bearing 180 degrees, but the biggest benefit I got was cutting the centre bearing HOUSING/BRACE that is welded to cross member. I went as far as I could, which is limited because too low and the brg sits on the crossmember. I then used washers to space the brg so it sat JUST off the crossmember.
The vibration is all but gone.
This I carried out in my own workshop, but for those that dont have the same access, the total job took around 2 hours and could be achieved by any good mechanic or welder.
Cheers.