MN Exhaust

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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby snowman on Tue Jan 24, 2012 1:51 pm

rec retail for Beaudesert ML exhaust in Dec 2011 was $1185 incl GST + packaging and freight which was $95.00

so $1280 delivered to Sydney. 2 & 3/4 mild steel, incl dump, straight through muffler and 1/4inch BSP EGT fitting and all bits required behind back of turbo (but not including flange which is reusable).

I think you have a choice of deleting muffler if you want which will make it a little cheaper.

i have the muffler and you are hard pressed noticing the difference from stock. Not the system to buy if you want it loud. :cry:

solid unit. i would go Scott Rods if you didn't have the cash. Actually i think i would cut out the muffler on the original exhaust if you wanted noise and cheap.
This car is like a bad drug habit. It is taking all my money and time, my family are concerned, but new mods just feel sooooooo good.
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby Homer on Tue Jan 24, 2012 1:58 pm

^^^ Sounds like the go then...diesels sound like crap anyway...especially wheeny little 4 bangers...Gemini engines :lol:

Should have heard the racket those young fella's shitboxes were making all weekend at LCMP :roll:
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby Hymie on Tue Jan 24, 2012 3:40 pm

There were some questions early on in this thread about using a 3" on the 2.5HP, I remember reading this recently and I have found the thread it was in

viewtopic.php?f=47&t=6677

I read with interest as in the next 12 months I want to upgrade the exhaust and install a chip, I was quite impressed to read what ChipIt said

(Copied and pasted)

Re: 3" Exhaust upgrade for MN 2.5HP
by CHIP IT on 09 Nov 2010, 19:42

There's been talk and whether or not the 2.5l MN with a 3" system is overkill.

With a standard 2.5 of with other Diesel Chips, you would get away with a 2.5" however with the Chip It Module a 3" system is def warranted as the higher tune states will exceed other brands.

Remember we dont want ANY back pressure AT ALL. If we could dump to atmosphere it would be best however an exhaust of types is needed. So a 3" system is NOT overkill.

(Case of mistaken identidy) One young sales guy I overheard from a semi famous exhaust brand said to a customer "you should only put on a 2.3/4" system because if you put a 3" on your car (it was a Diesel Pathfinder) it will cause a boost spike"

Oh really !!!! And what happens if a diesel boost spikes? Nothing! He obviously was again reverting back to what is known about petrol vehicles.

Both engine types (petrol and diesel) will lean out somewhat but for a petrol vehicle this can cause severe detonation and stuff the engine. A diesel that leans out will just reduce power output.

Further, with the the Chip It module, we ACTUALLY ENCOURAGE A HIGH/FAST ramp up of the turbo ... this free flowing exhaust reduces turbo lag and helps spool the turbo and gives more of what we all crave ...

-----MORE POWER-----!!!
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby Kegsy on Tue Jan 24, 2012 4:13 pm

IMHO thats a little misleading.

Backpressure is not the goal, velocity is.

Its complex but also simple at the same time. You want want as close to zero backpressure as possible but maintain the highest velocity of exhaust gas to ensure it exits the exhaust as fast as possible.

Hotter exhaust gas flows faster than cooler. So to keep the gas flowing as fast as possible to maintain velocity it needs to be kept hot. An oversized exhaust will let the gas cool down too quickly hence slowing its exit from the exhaust. A properly tuned exhaust will have considered these facts, not just "bigger is better because its turbo..." that myth is quickly dying off now with the more experienced tuners.

On my previous car I gained quite a few wheel kw by downsizing from a full 3" system to a 3" Dump, 2.75" catback, and it was made by the same company with the same jig and muffler types. This car was pushing decent power for what it was :twisted:

Bigger isn't always the way to go. If anything the best exhausts start larger at the dump and slowly taper off toward the tailpipe
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby wake jake on Tue Jan 24, 2012 4:35 pm

Taken from newhilux
N/A cars: As most of you know, the design of turbo exhaust systems runs counter to exhaust design for n/a vehicles. N/A cars utilize exhaust velocity (not backpressure) in the collector to aid in scavenging other cylinders during the blowdown process. It just so happens that to get the appropriate velocity, you have to squeeze down the diameter of the discharge of the collector (aka the exhaust), which also induces backpressure. The backpressure is an undesirable byproduct of the desire to have a certain degree of exhaust velocity. Go too big, and you lose velocity and its associated beneficial scavenging effect. Too small and the backpressure skyrockets, more than offsetting any gain made by scavenging. There is a happy medium here.

For turbo cars, you throw all that out the window. You want the exhaust velocity to be high upstream of the turbine (i.e. in the header). You'll notice that primaries of turbo headers are smaller diameter than those of an n/a car of two-thirds the horsepower. The idea is to get the exhaust velocity up quickly, to get the turbo spooling as early as possible. Here, getting the boost up early is a much more effective way to torque than playing with tuned primary lengths and scavenging. The scavenging effects are small compared to what you'd get if you just got boost sooner instead. You have a turbo; you want boost. Just don't go so small on the header's primary diameter that you choke off the high end.

Downstream of the turbine (aka the turboback exhaust), you want the least backpressure possible. No ifs, ands, or buts. Stick a Hoover on the tailpipe if you can. The general rule of "larger is better" (to the point of diminishing returns) of turboback exhausts is valid. Here, the idea is to minimize the pressure downstream of the turbine in order to make the most effective use of the pressure that is being generated upstream of the turbine. Remember, a turbine operates via a pressure ratio. For a given turbine inlet pressure, you will get the highest pressure ratio across the turbine when you have the lowest possible discharge pressure. This means the turbine is able to do the most amount of work possible (i.e. drive the compressor and make boost) with the available inlet pressure.

Again, less pressure downstream of the turbine is goodness. This approach minimizes the time-to-boost (maximizes boost response) and will improve engine VE throughout the rev range.

As for 2.5" vs. 3.0", the "best" turboback exhaust depends on the amount of flow, or horsepower. At 250 hp, 2.5" is fine. Going to 3" at this power level won't get you much, if anything, other than a louder exhaust note. 300 hp and you're definitely suboptimal with 2.5". For 400-450 hp, even 3" is on the small side.”

"As for the geometry of the exhaust at the turbine discharge, the most optimal configuration would be a gradual increase in diameter from the turbine's exducer to the desired exhaust diameter-- via a straight conical diffuser of 7-12° included angle (to minimize flow separation and skin friction losses) mounted right at the turbine discharge. Many turbochargers found in diesels have this diffuser section cast right into the turbine housing. A hyperbolic increase in diameter (like a trumpet snorkus) is theoretically ideal but I've never seen one in use (and doubt it would be measurably superior to a straight diffuser). The wastegate flow would be via a completely divorced (separated from the main turbine discharge flow) dumptube. Due the realities of packaging, cost, and emissions compliance this config is rarely possible on street cars. You will, however, see this type of layout on dedicated race vehicles.

as cylinder scavenging downstream of the turbine, and hence, no reason to desire high exhaust velocity here. You will only introduce unwanted backpressure.

Other things you can do (in addition to choosing an appropriate diameter) to minimize exhaust backpressure in a turboback exhaust are: avoid crush-bent tubes (use mandrel bends); avoid tight-radius turns (keep it as straight as possible); avoid step changes in diameter; avoid "cheated" radii (cuts that are non-perpendicular); use a high flow cat; use a straight-thru perforated core muffler... etc.”

"Comparing the two bellmouth designs, I've never seen either one so I can only speculate. But based on your description, and assuming neither of them have a divider wall/tongue between the turbine discharge and wg dump, I'd venture that you'd be hard pressed to measure a difference between the two. The more gradual taper intuitively appears more desirable, but it's likely that it's beyond the point of diminishing returns. Either one sounds like it will improve the wastegate's discharge coefficient over the stock config, which will constitute the single biggest difference. This will allow more control over boost creep. Neither is as optimal as the divorced wastegate flow arrangement, however.

There's more to it, though-- if a larger bellmouth is excessively large right at the turbine discharge (a large step diameter increase), there will be an unrecoverable dump loss that will contribute to backpressure. This is why a gradual increase in diameter, like the conical diffuser mentioned earlier, is desirable at the turbine discharge.

As for primary lengths on turbo headers, it is advantageous to use equal-length primaries to time the arrival of the pulses at the turbine equally and to keep cylinder reversion balanced across all cylinders. This will improve boost response and the engine's VE. Equal-length is often difficult to achieve due to tight packaging, fabrication difficulty, and the desire to have runners of the shortest possible length.”

"Here's a worked example (simplified) of how larger exhausts help turbo cars:

Say you have a turbo operating at a turbine pressure ratio (aka expansion ratio) of 1.8:1. You have a small turboback exhaust that contributes, say, 10 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge at redline. The total backpressure seen by the engine (upstream of the turbine) in this case is:

(14.5 +10)*1.8 = 44.1 psia = 29.6 psig total backpressure

o here, the turbine contributed 19.6 psig of backpressure to the total.

Now you slap on a proper low-backpressure, big turboback exhaust. Same turbo, same boost, etc. You measure 3 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge. In this case the engine sees just 17 psig total backpressure! And the turbine's contribution to the total backpressure is reduced to 14 psig (note: this is 5.6 psig lower than its contribution in the "small turboback" case).

So in the end, the engine saw a reduction in backpressure of 12.6 psig when you swapped turbobacks in this example. This reduction in backpressure is where all the engine's VE gains come from.

This is why larger exhausts make such big gains on nearly all stock turbo cars-- the turbine compounds the downstream backpressure via its expansion ratio. This is also why bigger turbos make more power at a given boost level-- they improve engine VE by operating at lower turbine expansion ratios for a given boost level.

As you can see, the backpressure penalty of running a too-small exhaust (like 2.5" for 350 hp) will vary depending on the match. At a given power level, a smaller turbo will generally be operating at a higher turbine pressure ratio and so will actually make the engine more sensitive to the backpressure downstream of the turbine than a larger turbine/turbo would.
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby ag9111 on Tue Jan 24, 2012 4:57 pm

:?
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby slipn on Tue Jan 24, 2012 5:39 pm

This is the quote I received from Beaudesert Exhausts:

The price for an aluminized mild steel system is $1,185.00, plus $25.00 packaging, plus freight.
The Stainless Steel system is $2000.00 plus packaging $25.00, plus freight.
Alternatively we can fit it here in our workshop for an extra $300.00.


Does this 4WD mag discount still apply?
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby Sky Miner on Tue Jan 24, 2012 6:37 pm

slipn wrote:Anyone want to go in for a group buy from Beaudesert?


Wasnt Brendan looking at doing a group buy with Beaudesert ?? (page 1) not sure if he's still going with it......
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby killa on Wed Jan 25, 2012 5:29 pm

4WD Action has tee'd up a deal this month. 10% off the zorst plus -50% on freight (from memory), watch the DVD..
Cheers,

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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby snowman on Wed Jan 25, 2012 6:57 pm

they must be running it again. this is the same as they ran late last year.
This car is like a bad drug habit. It is taking all my money and time, my family are concerned, but new mods just feel sooooooo good.
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MN Exhaust

Postby smouch1975 on Sat Jan 28, 2012 11:03 pm

killa wrote:4WD Action has tee'd up a deal this month. 10% off the zorst plus -50% on freight (from memory), watch the DVD..


Did you buy the 2 mag deal for $10?

Check the date on the video promos
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby killa on Sun Jan 29, 2012 5:13 am

smouch1975 wrote:
killa wrote:4WD Action has tee'd up a deal this month. 10% off the zorst plus -50% on freight (from memory), watch the DVD..


Did you buy the 2 mag deal for $10?

Check the date on the video promos

The current one, Issue 176. The offer ends 22nd Feb 2012.
I have a subscription so I get them a just before they come out on the news stands.
Cheers,

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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby buffhunt on Mon Jan 05, 2015 9:10 am

Well I'm a convert.
Never would I have believed such a simple mod could make such a big difference. :o

I had Carline-Grapnell Mufflers in Balcatta fit a Redback Extreme 3" Exhaust system on the 31st December. Previously on my Perth-Kalgoorlie Runs, it was 3rd gear uphill and struggle to maintain speed doing so. Overtaking was a case of look for a very long straight preferably with a bit of downhill.

This last run with the new system, was a new world. 4th Gear uphill and I can accelerate doing it. Overtaking is now normal, come back a gear and get up and go. :D

I got 10km/100L on this run at cruising speed of 110kmh.
Previous was 9.5km/100l at same cruising speed when possible.
I'm pretty happy with that.
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby docta.phipps on Wed Feb 17, 2016 11:52 am

Hey oldish thread I know but would like some advice. Thinking of getting the DEA 3" from turbo with CAT and Hi Flow muffler as I have found one cheap.

I have read and read many a thread on here about the possibility of overboosting etc

Now if the price wasn't so cheap I wouldn't even bother, but because there is a good deal available I wouldn't mind some extra whistle and deeper tone. The possible performance gains don't even come into it for me.

I don't do any towing, or if I do it's a light trailer and not very often. Mostly stick to freeway speeds of 110kph for 50ks per day and then 30ks of medium traffic with 60-70kph average.

1. What is the chance I have of having this over boost issue people talk of? I know it's probably a tricky question but seems like it's a low percentage this happens to people?

Cheers all.
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby Tony on Wed Feb 17, 2016 12:10 pm

About 50/50, they all do it with free flow cat and 3", will depend on your driving habits which is why some never encounter the problem. Use the torque and don't rev the claw out of it in the hills or when overtaking. Pulse the accelerator will also prevent it happening. Be very careful when overtaking. I have a few horror stories in email form with young families who have almost been killed as engine goes limp with no where to go.
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby msrlo on Wed Feb 17, 2016 12:53 pm

I have a DEA 3" exhaust off old ml and put it on the mn , the sound is completely different. I put a 50/50 2.5" /3" dump pipe on and gave it a fair bit of poke passing a cpl of cars one day and the limp mode cut in, not fun trying to get back in but I've taken it to 4 grand through the gears and it's never done it
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby msrlo on Wed Feb 17, 2016 12:57 pm

Should have said I've had the ecu played with so its no where near standard
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby docta.phipps on Wed Feb 17, 2016 6:12 pm

Tony wrote:About 50/50, they all do it with free flow cat and 3", will depend on your driving habits which is why some never encounter the problem. Use the torque and don't rev the claw out of it in the hills or when overtaking. Pulse the accelerator will also prevent it happening. Be very careful when overtaking. I have a few horror stories in email form with young families who have almost been killed as engine goes limp with no where to go.


Ok thanks heaps Tony. Changed my mind and didn't go with it. I'm over taking trucks everyday up big hills so don't want to risk it.

How about a muffler delete pipe? Do you get better turbo spool etc from one of those without the above mentioned risks?
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby docta.phipps on Wed Feb 17, 2016 6:17 pm

msrlo wrote:I have a DEA 3" exhaust off old ml and put it on the mn , the sound is completely different. I put a 50/50 2.5" /3" dump pipe on and gave it a fair bit of poke passing a cpl of cars one day and the limp mode cut in, not fun trying to get back in but I've taken it to 4 grand through the gears and it's never done it


Cheers mate.
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby scumbag on Thu Feb 18, 2016 4:08 pm

any one done a catless 3" and the dumped it before the diff? or even a catted 3" and dumped it at the diff.
atm im just running the standard system with the muffler removed and a 90deg bend off to the side...sounds great, anyone think a 3" would sound any better? no doubt removing the cat in my standard system would be louder but im not sure it would sound better

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SC3cLVj4NUU
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby Sofled on Sun Mar 13, 2016 5:39 pm

So looking at getting a chiptuning dom 1 chip. thinking 3inch exhaust first to let the power breathe.
what do we think is the difference between a red back performance or scotts rod exhaust at around $999 to a dea or playtime or even domn8tor exhausts retailing for half that price. some other brands even go up to $1500. what are we paying for with the more expensive exhausts? they all say tuned and high flow muffler and are all mandrell bent. perth caravan and camping show starts this week, ill be looking for a sweet deal. is getting a redback exhaust for $800 a good bargain or can i buy exactly the same thing as a dea or playtime for half the price?

Thoughts appreciated
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby Monster Triton on Sun Mar 13, 2016 6:47 pm

I was going to make a 3" exhaust system on my MN, as I made my own mandrel bent 3" turbo back system with one straight through muffler on my old 3.2 ML. It performed very well but after hearing some good feedback from several of my customers with Beaudesert exhaust systems I decided to ring them myself. Beaudesert and I'm sure many other professional exhaust specialists do a lot of testing to make sure they get the most fuel efficiently and power without compromising ECU faults, Beaudesert explained that they had more power output on the MN with a 2-3/4" exhaust than the 3" they also went on to say it's a turbo back system with a high flow cat and it does not compromise the manufacturers warranty. After purchasing the system it fitted and lined up perfectly, had very clear instructions, with good quality nuts and bolts, it has increased fuel economy, lowered the turbo lag and increased performance. I believe paying a bit extra is worth every cent and I'm a tight ass. Fitting a snorkel, fitting a blanking plate to the EGR system and fitting a oil catch can to keep clean cool air entering the engine, there was no need for ECU re-programing or chipping as the vehicle performs extremely well and beyond my expectations.
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby Fatmans_Triton on Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:55 am

Monster Triton wrote:I was going to make a 3" exhaust system on my MN, as I made my own mandrel bent 3" turbo back system with one straight through muffler on my old 3.2 ML. It performed very well but after hearing some good feedback from several of my customers with Beaudesert exhaust systems I decided to ring them myself. Beaudesert and I'm sure many other professional exhaust specialists do a lot of testing to make sure they get the most fuel efficiently and power without compromising ECU faults, Beaudesert explained that they had more power output on the MN with a 2-3/4" exhaust than the 3" they also went on to say it's a turbo back system with a high flow cat and it does not compromise the manufacturers warranty. After purchasing the system it fitted and lined up perfectly, had very clear instructions, with good quality nuts and bolts, it has increased fuel economy, lowered the turbo lag and increased performance. I believe paying a bit extra is worth every cent and I'm a tight ass. Fitting a snorkel, fitting a blanking plate to the EGR system and fitting a oil catch can to keep clean cool air entering the engine, there was no need for ECU re-programing or chipping as the vehicle performs extremely well and beyond my expectations.

Very interesting read cheers, I am sick of the twoing and froing between chipping and remapping and 2.5 to 3" exhausts, driving me mad, I also spoke to Beaudesert exhaust at the 4x4 show and he recommended the 2 3/4 but I didn't get a price for stainless....questions
1. Does the 2 3/4 need dawes valve ?
2. Everyone says the mild steel wont last more than 12 months before rusting as I live by the ocean and will be doing Fraser Island a lot
3. Any known price on both stainless and mild in 2 3/4 for 2010 MN ?
4. yours have muffler delete ?
Cheers
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby Monster Triton on Mon Mar 14, 2016 5:31 pm

1.The MN turbo boost is not controlled by the computer like the hilux, it is controlled manually directly by the boost pressure actuating the internal waste gate which is set at the factory, if the waste gate actuating arm is adjustable you may be able to shorten it which will raise the boost pressure, but I would advise against this as the more boost there is the more fuel is needed to maintain the correct air fuel ratio and this may bring on more side affects its best just to leave it as is for safety.
2.Beaudesert and I'm sure other exhaust specialists now use aluminiumized steel which doesn't rust and it is also painted in a heat proof coating.
3.I think it was about $1200 from memory I didn't know they did a stainless option but I guess it would be a lot more expensive.
4.I went with the muffler as the system was dyno tuned before it was sold to the public giving it a nice deep note with a bit of turbo and waste gate noise but without that shit crackle sound.
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Re: MN Exhaust

Postby Jrosey on Mon Mar 14, 2016 6:26 pm

I am in the process of putting all the gear I salvaged off my 2010 MN on to my current 2015 MN. I never had a limp mode due to over boost with the Scotts 3" exhaust but had a few under boost codes. While digging out the exhaust I checked the size of the flange into the dump and cat and surprisingly it is only a tad over 2" or 56mm to be exact. It then opens up after it takes the first turn to the cat, so this downsize acts as a small restriction to the flow. I was toying with idea of placing a 2 3/4" gasket at the next joint which would slow flow marginally and may help reduce the chance of overboost. I have a Chipit 215 and EGT controller with dual map set up, which is being put on at the same time, so interesting times. Need all this fitted and sorted before heading for the Kimberley's mid year.
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