EGT for MN 2.5 ?

[jock71]

Did a search and could not find what I was after, can anyone tell me what the EGT max limit would be for a MN triton? I have a sensor installed just after the turbo, I have a 3 inch stainless exchaust with a DP chip set on number 5, and am getting 710-750 degrees at 110km/h, which seems a little high from what I have read. Tried contacting Mitshubishi and they could not give me any information. I have the standard dump pipe but new exchaust back from there, have KN airfilter and snorkel.
Cheers Jock

[Longranger1]

It sounds a bit excessive. What brand of pyrometer are you running?

[jock71]

Auberauto, same as Chipit use. Cheers Jock

[4ePikanini]

750 should be the max when measured direct in the exhaust manifold. if you are getting 750 after the turbo then there is serious issues with either the fuelling or the gauge.

Get it sorted asap!

[jock71]

Thats just the thing, I tried finding out from Mitsubishi, to no avail they can not tell me what it should be, Brand new gauge getting it checked wednesday but the dyno place I am checking at asked what the temp should be when I said no one really knows he is not surprised. Thats for that how do you know that it is too high is that from mitshubishi? or a diseiel place?
Cheers

[coxy47]

Im not sure but in my opinion 750 is too high. As far as im aware thats generally the recommended max directly at the exhaust manifold like 4ePikanini said. The only vehicles that ive heard of running temps that high are the D40 Navaras which exceed 700 in standard form

Probably worth trying to find out what some of the guys running the ChipIT modules are getting as a comparison?

[Kegsy]

Tony should be here soon I would imagine, he's going to be the best bloke here to shed some light on the subject as he's had a play with his 2.5.

Generally though that sounds like its running pretty hot. From your post it sounds like your running factory Cat converter and Dump? If so thats probably not helping things for the tune you've selected, a bigger dump pipe and free'er flowing cat should help relieve some heat.

Also, have you tried going down a few tune levels on the DPchip and monitored the EGT?

[jock71]

Thanks Guys, Yes went down a couple of tunes only dropped about 15 degrees, disconnected Chip and only dropped about 30 degrees in total. Standard dump pipe and converter still in place. With no chip and K&N filter in sitting on 110kph on flat road was sitting on 685 degress? Maybe the gauge is not calibrated or something? Cheers

[Kegsy]

Is it reading in Fahrenheit?

[jock71]

Kegsy tried that, made sure it was in Celsius. Has any one else put a EGT gauge on a MN yet?

[Kegsy]

Tony definitely has one on his, I think Longranger may have dropped a hint as well.

Just come to mind, I'd call MRT performance mate. They have tuned a few MN's so they would probably have data from there R&D.

[coxy47]

Thanks Guys, Yes went down a couple of tunes only dropped about 15 degrees, disconnected Chip and only dropped about 30 degrees in total. Standard dump pipe and converter still in place. With no chip and K&N filter in sitting on 110kph on flat road was sitting on 685 degress? Maybe the gauge is not calibrated or something? Cheers

Judging by that my guess would be that its most likely an issue with the gauge. Do you get any black smoke without the chip? If you got a scangauge and your not achieving strange levels of boost and no black smoke i cant see the EGTs being that high (unless all MN's are like that ) The only other thing i can think of is that there may be an issue with you cat converter though less likely.

Just come to mind, I'd call MRT performance mate. They have tuned a few MN's so they would probably have data from there R&D.

That or it may be worthwhile contacting chipit.

[4ePikanini]

the 2.5 should sit at 110 at very low throttle and at very low throttle the EGT's shouldn't be high.

My guess is that the gauge is faulty.

What does it read from cold start and just idling?

[Tony]

Just found this, thats way hot at the dump:o , I run crazy stuff and only see 550ish and I think thats hot.

No time to go into detail just now. Has the tip come off the thermal in your dump?

I'll explain why the 2.5 runs higher EGT's under light load soon but not that hot!

I can tell you fueling these with no added boost is not good though.

Cheers T

[jock71]

Talked to chipit and they said they set their cutout at 680, cold start idle around 170 ish, sitting at 110kph around 2100rpm, will check the sender/probe tomorrow cheers guys

[Longranger1]

Some pyro probes are notoriously unreliable - not saying this is the case with yours though. One thing to try is find what the egt is at say a constant 60 km/h on a level road and see what the temps are then. Should be very mild, but if a little high than the probe may be dicky.

Not sure on the type of probe used on yours but some have been problematic in as little time as a couple of months of use. This fact has been done to death in other diesel related forums.

If you can, get the thermocouple output values i.e. millivolts/temperatures and compare at known temps (easier said than done sadly an accurate furnace is usually required ) you will need the manufacturer's original thermocouple values for this. The only other way is to exchange probes for a known good or new one and compare. Bit of a worry for you though.

[jock71]

Thanks Longranger, just pulled the probe and it is only warm by feel, yet the gauge reads 80 so I am leaning towards the gauge, will try and get a different gauge reading on wednesday as I have booked the car in with a tuner to check the gauge. Trying to get peace of mind as I heaf off on a trip up North for three weeks next week. Thanks for every ones help

[helicopter7]

Thanks Longranger, just pulled the probe and it is only warm by feel, yet the gauge reads 80 so I am leaning towards the gauge, will try and get a different gauge reading on wednesday as I have booked the car in with a tuner to check the gauge. Trying to get peace of mind as I heaf off on a trip up North for three weeks next week. Thanks for every ones help

you could check by simply puting the sensor into boiling water. I used this simple method to check a couple of EGT thermocouple units used in our jet engines. Just take an electric kettle to the car if you cannot disconnect the entire assembly. Also have a cupa as well while at it

[chaser]

That's very hot, the mn run a bit hotter at cruising speeds to decrease the amount of carbon/soot injested into the manifold.

Sounds like you have been sucked into a bit of hole regarding the gauge. There are gauges and then there are gauges, I would try and source one from a truck mob or something like that.

[jock71]

Thanks Guys, will try the cuppa test tonight, will still get the gauge/ probe looked at on Wednesday, starting to relax a bit now as I am almost sure it is either the gauge or the probe. Cheers Jock

[Tony]

The mug test will only be a guide, long way off 400 to 700 deg where it must be accurate.
I use a Infrared Thermometer to roughly test mine when in doubt. Every enthusiast should have one. has many uses.

On the MN's 2.5HP temperature behavior.............

As chaser has hinted, the ECU software is designed to make lower combustion temperatures with higher EGT's under light to medium duty to assist burning carbon and meet strict euro emission requirements.

I have found a pattern in the sensors mv (voltage) out puts that suggest the ECU's software infact lays the boost off under light to medium loads to help increase the EGT temperatures so the cat converter does a secondary burn. Using an interceptor style chip (rail or injector type) will no doubt aggravate the problem with out increasing the boost in the given range. This is possible to some extent with chip it map sensor signal or ECU reflash.
Personally, I would not recommend fueling up the 2.5 with out a map signal interceptor or going the ECU reflash .

More fuel = more heat at same boost. The only way to lower EGT's is take fuel out or increase the boost. (Bigger exhaust will help)

As above, unfortunately, the electronic boost control is a lot harder to trick when the damn factory ECU's software is doing its best to make it run hot in factory form.

On a further note, I have noticed Mitsu's latest return has made them run even hotter and taken some mid range power out

From here gets technical.


In summery, the 2.5 is fine up to 650 at the dump, 850 on the hot side.

I would expect most will see temps between 320 to 570 under normal use. Nothing to worry about.
A 650ish peak on a hill is fine but should settle back around 320 to 570.

700 on is not fine

Grab a Infrared Thermometer to check the thermal temps.


Cheers T

[jock71]

Thanks Tony, sounds like a lot of research has been done Cheers

[Tony]

Cant find much in the way of photos here and cant post video's as on public road etc etc.

This is mine running the wildest tune possible before injector leak back with a shade over 35psi boost
No one here has this tune so is on me if I burst it.

Just proves with boost they cool right down.

DSCF3387.jpg

Here is the max temp recorded running a much milder tune and wile on a light cruise.

This is when I see the boost drop off to say 13 to 18 psi and EGT's rise as the factory ECU is designed to do.

EGTs.jpg

I'll try to capture a short video soon to help explain the bizarre behaviour with the electronic boost control on the 2.5HP


Disclaimer..... I have some engine modifications but essentially resembles a stock unit other than 3" exhaust and Chip It performance enhancement inc EGR blank, MAP mod and rail pressure relief valve recalibrated .
Cheers T

[jock71]

Wow 35 pound boost, thats very impressive! More pull than a 14 year old schoolboy?

[Tony]

Wow 35 pound boost, thats very impressive! More pull than a 14 year old schoolboy?

Pretty much :lol