Another carrbon/ EGR blocking post

[Mitstech2936]

Because Mitsubishi in all there wiseness havent clicked onto the fact that there sending out a fortune in manifolds everyweek, and as u know it would cost the dealerships a whole bundle if they supplied a synthetic oil verses the poverty pack that they supply on capped price servicing, I tryn slip it in on vehicles where the customer has had trouble with power etc and upgraded to the new style map sensor and manifold, if I owned a triton I would blank and catch too, and also chip, I'm allways a stern believer in hot ridding engines, can't help myself, but just for the unsuspecting with there vehicle still in warranty doing theese mods will quikly lose warranty, I see it regularly where sum1 will bring in there pride n joy glxr only to find it's voided there warranty because of the mods and chip etc, all because they have been told from the supplier of the chip that "this will not void your warranty"

[mattz]

Really interesting read guys. I'm in the process now of having a new top manifold fitted and lower manifold cleaned. I managed to get 180k k's done in my 3.2 triton before the surging started. Perhaps the fact that it's all country miles has helped it hold off for as long as it has. I am having the new upgraded manifold fitted where the sensor sits further up. I really can't believe there wasn't a recall with all the issues I have read since getting on 'new triton'.
After this is done, I'm going to fit the blocking plate and a chip it kite and with luck, no more problems. Should I drill a 6mm hole in the blocking plate just to be safe ? I just want to avoid any more problems down the track. Really what is best with this issue?
Another thing I thought interesting was the mention of a scan gauge. They sound a great idea ESP if having a problem and being able to reset the limp home mode or work out what going on with the car. Where can you buy them, what model and how much is one that would be set up to work on the Triton ?
All that aside, I'm only new to this forum over the last week, but I now know more about my vehicle in that week than I have over the period that I have owned it. Thanks to all for great comment, thought and fix it ideas. I really appreciate all the comments which have pointed me into the direction of keeping my car and enjoying it.
" I just love that car !"

Welcome to the forum Brett.
Have a look hear for a thread on the scanguage.
viewtopic.php?t=438
It's a great bit of kit.


Great advise Mitstech.......it's great to have you blokes around.
Don't scare him away Snowie.


Go hawks!!!!!

[JoanTheSpark]

@mitstech
Thanks for the info & sharing your thoughts, I'll have them put in low ash oil next service, just to be a bit more save above all else.
May I PM you about a question regarding the combination meter needles?

@Brett
If you put the blanking plate + Chip IT in it will control the boost and does this without the exhaust gas recirculated, so you won't get limp modes from that one. Just remember to pull it out before it's going near any dealer.
You won't need to drill the blanking plate, throttle valve or cut your MAP sensor tubing for this then either.. those are solutions that have been introduced to go without the chip (less expensive) to give the manifold air pressure sensor something to sense in absence of the recirculated exhaust gas under certain conditions.

[Mitstech2936]

Yea no worries Joan

[BrettJH]

Thanks For the clarity guys. I'll let you know how it all goes when it's all fitted next week.

[Adonis]

Hey guys so I finally decided to get this sorted today. Rang the brother up and went down to the workshop and smashed it. I decided not to chip it as I do 99% road driving to work and occasionally do some weekend warrior stuff, aside from that I just use it to tow the boat so no need to spend the $$$ on chip.

So what we did was first stop to enzed to grab some steel fittings and some of the good rubber tube (looking back i should have just got the black stuff it doesn't look so ball bagish and is cheaper) then off to workshop. Pulled the EGR pipe off near the firewall and yep last bolt was a mission so ended up handballing that off to brother to undo. Traced out some SS plate, drilled cut, whacked some cat gasket goo stuff on it and put it back in. Then to avoid these limp mode things i bypassed the blanked flange with some intercooler air so fingers crossed this works out.

We then pulled the intercooler pipe off (the one before the intercooler) and drilled a hole, tapped the fitting in and ran a bead of weld around it to make sure. Painted it, put hose on and hose clamp then put it back on.




Then undid the pipe from the heat exchanger to the valve before the intake manifold, did the same thing to that. Cleaned all flanges up with prepsol and used the cat gasket maker in between the gaskets and put all back together.




After that put the rocker cover breather into make shift catch can until new one arrived and blocked off the air after the air box. Took her for a spin and I couldn't believe what a difference it made, instantly you could feel the engine was more responsive and maybe it was my imagination but felt like it had a slight increase in power.

Anyway cheers for the advise guys!

[KRBMN]

good read this i dont think you need the low ash for the tritons that is for the dpf on the pajero np model has the dpf the current one dose not, have friends with the np pajero has well over 100000 kms on it with no problems yet
full synthetic less oil use and mist
here is a test,the guys with provents ect after a run undo the cap on the provent and you can see the mist in the thing then try the same after swaping to full synthetic
full synthetic way to go as well as the blank and can, less filter changes on the provent