Disc Machining & Spring Replacement

[4x4fun]

Hay all,
I’ve had my ML now 16 months and have 21k on the clock, in March I had Mitsubishi replace the rear leaf springs due to the lazy arse end. It took a bit of winging but they replaced the springs and told me that they had sagged 15mm, their advice was “if client is to carry or tow heavy loads we suggest the installation of aftermarket air bags”. This from a 996kg payload?

Now I’ve noticed a 10mm lean to the left, so they are going to replace the front right spring to fix it???
On top of that there is a pretty awesome shudder under the brake pedal on hot discs, the service manager was going to ring HQ to get their thoughts on machining them for me.

I know that I should just replace the lot with quality bits but 40K+ on a ute should give me more “trouble free” driving than I have had !

[Homer]

I've had the shudder after doing some time trial type runs, but they are 4x4 brakes so I expect them not to stand up to high load/speed stops as well as a car.
They really go off quickly though when giving it to them.

Edit: I'm no expert but I have found that after you cook the brakes once you generate 'hot spots' or hard spots on your rotors and you get the problem back all the time after that.
Unfortunately I can't find any 'performance' or really high quality pads either for the Triton.

I have seen on here nearly all Triton's are low on the passenger side...big arsed wives maybe

Who said that?

[did3.2]

The lean to the passengers side could be from the extra weight of the fuel tank on that side IMO.
Was going to agree with the wife statement but mine was reading over the shoulder at the time

[4x4fun]

Jesus, your brave Homer!
So you’re saying it is a design fault then? They should've accounted for the BAW (Big Arse Wife) syndrome and put the fuel on the driver side... and maybe some water tanks also for extra ballast

[snowman]

I've had the shudder after doing some time trial type runs, but they are 4x4 brakes so I expect them not to stand up to high load/speed stops as well as a car.
They really go off quickly though when giving it to them.

Edit: I'm no expert but I have found that after you cook the brakes once you generate 'hot spots' or hard spots on your rotors and you get the problem back all the time after that.
Unfortunately I can't find any 'performance' or really high quality pads either for the Triton.

re brakes: my old commodore (VYII) used to get disc shudder after really hard stops. it was explained to me that if you work the brakes really hard dont then sit at the lights etc. with your foot on the brake. the pads sitting on the disc when stopped allow the disc to cool at a different rate than the rest of the disc and this creates the warping. i even got to the point that i would 'creep' on the handbrake whilst at lights etc after a hard stop to avoid the pads locating in the one part of the disc.

i never get my discs machined (on the commodore anyway) as new discs were about an extra $100 and when machining they reduce disc thickness, then once they re 'case harden' again you have less metal and higher chance of warping again anyway. The falcons are even worse i am told.

i have not had any problems on either triton (ML and MN) but again i dont push it that hard. use gearing as much as possible.