genuine oil?

Discussion on servicing, engine oils, gearbox oils, diff oils etc

Re: genuine oil?

Postby sal_troy on Thu May 22, 2014 5:36 am

Hi all. Had my 2012 GLX 2.5td Triton serviced yesterday. Dealer said they put in Shell Rimula x 15w40, which to my understanding is a standard diesel fleet style oil. Service manager said if I use anything else may effect my warranty. I looked up Shell website oil guide for my model but no mention of Rimula x. Results were Shell helix ultra 5w40 or HX7 10w40. I used Caltex Delo400 in my MK triton & loved it but no mention on there website for my model, they recommend Caltex Havoline C3 5w30. I can get this oil fairly cheap through oil depot but not sure what to use. Any thoughts?
Thanks
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Re: genuine oil?

Postby GLX58 on Thu May 22, 2014 11:37 am

As indicated, dealers may just use what they've got/what they get cheap. The Oils Aint Oils thread is a great read for what works best (or 'should' work best) in Tritons. People here seem to like Penrite HPR 5 5w 40, Caltex delo and Synforce.
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Re: genuine oil?

Postby sal_troy on Fri May 23, 2014 2:07 pm

In regards to using Caltex Havoline full synthetic C3 5w30. Will this oil be too light for qld conditions? Is Delo400 suitable for 2.5td motor?
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Re: genuine oil?

Postby Cowboy Dave on Fri May 23, 2014 4:15 pm

Your owners handbook has a table in it up the back that has temperature range marked on it with guidance as to oil viscosity/ratings that will be suitable within those temperature ranges. It will also tell you the other criteria the oil should meet so that you could compare it to the label/specs on the Delo stuff. Pretty sure some of the guys above who've mentioned the Delo have the same engine as you but I'm unfamiliar with whether that oil comes in different grades etc so it's still worth looking at properly.
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Re: genuine oil?

Postby sal_troy on Sat May 24, 2014 5:41 am

Thanks for your replies. After a far bit of reading I decided to use Caltex full synthetic 5w40. Liked the idea of using 5w40 over the recommended C3 5w30, being in QLD.
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Re: genuine oil?

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sat May 24, 2014 7:21 am

Autobarn has valvoline full synthetic oil on sale $50 for 5 litres which is about $15 less than normal.
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Re: genuine oil?

Postby myself62 on Sat May 24, 2014 7:40 am

Does all of this apply to the ml petrol motor also?
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Re: genuine oil?

Postby Homer on Sat May 24, 2014 7:49 am

No mate...and the correct term for your motor is simply "the good engine". ;)

I use Mobil 1 full synthetic but I think any decent quality "normal" motor oil would be fine...they are a proper and reliable engine you see ;)

Although it could be construed as more brain work to maintain as you do have to check the odometer for oil and service intervals where the diesel guys only have to wait until the next limp mode or breakdown and have the oil changed at the same time as they fall pretty regularly between service intervals :P :lol:
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Re: genuine oil?

Postby myself62 on Sat May 24, 2014 7:54 am

Thanks Homer, what spec oil do you use? or is recommended?
Please reply ASAP before you get murders by the diesel mob lol
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Re: genuine oil?

Postby Homer on Sat May 24, 2014 8:18 am

That bunch of soft c..ks....no fear there mate :P :lol:

I use the 5W50 full synthetic. I'd prefer 15 or 20W50 but they don't make it. Haven't had any issues and it is a very good oil. :D

For an extra $20 or $30 every 15,000k's I don't see the issue with the extra cost if you look at weekly fuel price changes being that much anyway :roll: and you know you have good protection.
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Re: genuine oil?

Postby NowForThe5th on Sat May 24, 2014 8:29 am

IMHO a full synthetic is wasted in the V6 when you're doing 15,000km changes and unless operating in really severe conditions. A good quality mineral oil will do the job just fine, or perhaps go to a semi-synthetic.

This engine is a bit fussy about oil so you need to find one with just the right viscosity range to suit your conditions. It needs to be thin enough, when cold to get up to the top end quickly, but not too thin that it all drains out and leaves no protection at start-up. You'll know straight away if you get it wrong - it will rattle like crazy on a cold start until the oil pressure builds up. Even in Canberra I found a 5W was a little light in a straight mineral oil but semi-synthetic was ok.

Once hot, if you go too high on the viscosity rating the engine simply won't rev out. So a 50 is way too heavy and a 30, depending on the engine (age, condition etc.) may be too light. I found 40 to be ideal.

In Qld. I'd think that a 10W-40 semi-synthetic would probably be the best choice, 5W-40 if you're inland a bit and get cool mornings.

Brand too does make a difference. It all has to do with the length of the molecules and how they hang together. Some brands use different packages that will stay up the top and give some cushioning when cold. I found that Valvoline was the best for this.
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