Oils aint Oils

[DENTED]

So at the right price "free" it would be ok it use as an In between services oil.? 7500kms per change.

[L200Shogun]

Ask Castrol http://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/ ... ct-us.html

Technical Helpline on 1300 557 998

[Rory18]

Hi dented, I may not drive a triton but I drive a competitor diesel and use vecton as I get the same discount as you. With the company I used to work for they only used vecton oil and it went into every truck, petrol fork lift, diesel compressors and work utes.

But, can't guarantee you will not experience or cause problems with using it.

[sal_troy]

Hi har051. How are you finding the hi-tec fleetmaster 15w40.
Thanks

[deermaster]

viscosity wise, a 10w/40 or a 15w/40 but there is more to it than that.

Japanese diesel engine manufactures such as mitsi, nissan etc call for a JASO DH1 (Japan Automobile standard ass'n) specification in diesels which, if the vehicle is not fitted with a DPF, requires a medium ash (detergency) oil.

Low ash or low detergency oils will not keep engines as clean as medium ash/detergency, so in summary ...

1. 10w/40 or 15w/40
2. JASO DH1 rating as well as API service rating of CH-4 or better
3. meduim ash, say 1.3% to 1.5%
4. and oils built on group 2 or better base oils, semi synthetc would be my choice

I run a 15w/40, semi synthetic 1.3% ash JASO DH1, API CH-4 in my glxr

does that help

Hi Aussie. I am using a Penrite HPR Diesel 15 Semi Synthetic 15W-50 It says extra ten full zinc
It does say API CI-4 Plus SL ACEA A3/B4/E7
JASO DH-1, VW 505.00 JASO MA
I have been using it for a while and seems to go OK. What's your opinion on this oil please?
Thanks for any reply

[Longranger1]

That's a good oil. Pretty hard to beat for quality.

[deermaster]

That's a good oil. Pretty hard to beat for quality.

Yes LR I thought it sounded like a good oil and the only thing about it is it is a bit pricey. But you can't put a price on longevity of your engine can you. I have started to find out that you only get what you pay for and have paid peanuts for things before and just gotten monkeys

[L200Shogun]

In summary, oil change intervals offered up by manufacturers can only be described as acceptable’. Are 15,000-20,000km intervals designed to consider long engine life and reliability after the factory warranty expires? By the Looks of it, probably not. The best advice to sustain long engine Life in your diesel is to stick to the good old and time proven engine oil at 5,000km and oil and filter at 10.000km, while in new common-rail diesels you could get away possibly just doing both at every 10,000km, Remember that a cure happens with good preventative measures and regular oil changes will keep your diesel engine in tip top condition.

from here

Are you better off using a "cheaper" oil that meets the specification and change at 5000km or an "expensive" oil that meets the specification at 10000km?

I see a lot of oil brands recommended but they are only ever a persons opinion that it is good. Never science to back it up.

[biggibbo]

That's a good oil. Pretty hard to beat for quality.

Yes LR I thought it sounded like a good oil and the only thing about it is it is a bit pricey. But you can't put a price on longevity of your engine can you. I have started to find out that you only get what you pay for and have paid peanuts for things before and just gotten monkeys

I've been using the HPR15 for the last 100,000 and the ute is over 200,000 now. I do change it and the filter every 7500, however the old stain the fingers test says I probably could change less regularly. I buy from supercheap/repco in 2x10 litre lots when they have the 20% off sales as it meet specs and is $20 a drum (10litre) cheaper than the HPR5.

[har05l]

Hi har051. How are you finding the hi-tec fleetmaster 15w40.
Thanks

I've found the hi-tec to be fine. Done 3 services with it and will be getting another drum and continue using

I did do a few 7500km oil changes but found it still had life left in it so will now start changing every 10,000km's

[sal_troy]

Thanks for the update har051

[viking shippy]

Hi fellas I am doing an all fluids service
Can somebody tell me
What is the best oils to use for the gearbox/transfer and diffs..
Radiator and clutch and brake fluid..

[NowForThe5th]

Subject: Can't find it? Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Hi fellas I am doing an all fluids service
Can somebody tell me
What is the best oils to use for the gearbox/transfer and diffs..
Radiator and clutch and brake fluid..

Shippy, first thing is that you've posted this in a thread which to help newbies find stuff on the forum. So, off topic, but I'm moving it to the Oils thread.

Second, asking a question like this is ridiculous. You'll get 100 replies and 200 diffferent recommendations and you'll be no better off. Choose a quality brand, or brands (you don't have to stick to the same brand for engine and diff, for example) and make sure you buy products that meet the specification standards in your handbook.

Be price concious but don't buy the cheapest brand. Generic, or store brands often only have the minimum additive package necessary to meet the standard while the better (and sometimes higher priced) brands put a lot more in for increased protection. Always buy products on special - you can save a lot of money this way, even if you're not quite ready to do your service.

Don't be sucked in by the synthetics. They're great for really heavy duty application and long drain intervals. If you're not lapping Bathurst daily and changing at 7500km then you're just throwing money away.

There is no such thing as the "best" oil. What is best is what works for you.

[grox]

My answer is Penriite use the guide on their website for all fluids . Auto transmission I've stayed with Mitsubishi. Iwould bet a heap on here use HPR diesel 5w 40 or 15w . As Aussie the oil guy early on posted meets the Jaso 1 specs has a high tbn required ash % . Yeah true it's my opinion but we run a few trucks dozers tractors etc and have had many a yack with people whose knowledge is good and have no reason to be biased. Eg they provide independent oil analysis. Others maybe as good but you can easily find Penrite cheapest I've found is 20l drums off repco .

[AnOldFart]

My answer is Penriite use the guide on their website for all fluids . Auto transmission I've stayed with Mitsubishi. Iwould bet a heap on here use HPR diesel 5w 40 or 15w . As Aussie the oil guy early on posted meets the Jaso 1 specs has a high tbn required ash % . Yeah true it's my opinion but we run a few trucks dozers tractors etc and have had many a yack with people whose knowledge is good and have no reason to be biased. Eg they provide independent oil analysis. Others maybe as good but you can easily find Penrite cheapest I've found is 20l drums off repco .

x2 for Penrite. I wait for Soupycheep to have their 'ClubPlus' or 20% off sales, which they seem to do fairly regularly, and then I buy enough to -also- do the next service as well, and stash it in the corner of the shed until then. Keeping a little 'stash' available for later use means that you don't have to buy it -exactly- when you 'absolutely' need it, which inevitibly also means exactly when they will be selling it, at their absolute topmost price a.k.a. Murphy's Law ...

[leonbee]

Ready for my first oil change. Could someone tell me if the sump plug has a steel washer or a rubber ring seal.????
Can it be re- used or should I get one before I dump the black Pot....

[snowman]

Ready for my first oil change. Could someone tell me if the sump plug has a steel washer or a rubber ring seal.????
Can it be re- used or should I get one before I dump the black Pot....

it is a steel 'crush' washer (well on the 3.2 anyway) and CANNOT be reused. it WILL leak. Replace.

[srb]

It's an alloy washer I think, defiantly not a rubber one. I've never replaced mine but it's probably good practice to.

[Mitsu0069]

The sump plug has a aluminium or a copper sealing washer that should be renewed every time that you remove the sump plug. A 10c washer to save a leak priceless

[leonbee]

The sump plug has a aluminium or a copper sealing washer that should be renewed every time that you remove the sump plug. A 10c washer to save a leak priceless

I agree, ill grab one before the drop.... thanx for your help Mitsu0069

[Cowboy Dave]

Better still get yourself into one of these:

http://www.fumoto.com.au/

You can buy one with a hose nipple on it. When you want to drop your oil you attach a 6 inch hose (ordinary 10mm clear hose will push on tight enough), point the hose into your container of choice, turn the tap and wait for it to drain with no spillages in the neatest oil drain you have ever done.

Yes it costs more than some washers but you'll never have to buy or find a crush washer again and you'll never end up with oil on your hands, half way down your arm and/or on the floor again.

Have a search on the forum for fumoto and you should find some pictures, part numbers and people being generally happy with them.

[AnOldFart]

Better still get yourself into one of these:

http://www.fumoto.com.au/

You can buy one with a hose nipple on it. When you want to drop your oil you attach a 6 inch hose (ordinary 10mm clear hose will push on tight enough), point the hose into your container of choice, turn the tap and wait for it to drain with no spillages in the neatest oil drain you have ever done.

Yes it costs more than some washers but you'll never have to buy or find a crush washer again and you'll never end up with oil on your hands, half way down your arm and/or on the floor again.

Have a search on the forum for fumoto and you should find some pictures, part numbers and people being generally happy with them.

x2 for the Fumoto option...
Apart from the ease and cleanliness already mentioned by 'CD' it will also dramatically reduce -your- number of chances of stripping or cross-threading the OEM Sump Plug as well and it wont take you too many times of buying replacement sump plug crush washers at $2.50 each (or more) from your local Mitsui Service 'Stealer' before the Fumoto pays for itself either...

[Cowboy Dave]

And you want the F106n, the n being the nipple thing for the hose. It's more like a hose barb really but since they call it a nipple who am I to argue?

[psaunders]

And you want the F106n, the n being the nipple thing for the hose. It's more like a hose barb really but since they call it a nipple who am I to argue?

Just wanting confirmation, F106n is the correct part number for the Mn triton? Sorry to be a pain I don't have my service manual handy to get the thread size

[psaunders]

Disregard my last post just found it on there website...
I really shouldn't shop on my phone!