Aussie wrote:viscosity wise, a 10w/40 or a 15w/40 but there is more to it than that.
Japanese diesel engine manufactures such as mitsi, nissan etc call for a JASO DH1 (Japan Automobile standard ass'n) specification in diesels which, if the vehicle is not fitted with a DPF, requires a medium ash (detergency) oil.
Low ash or low detergency oils will not keep engines as clean as medium ash/detergency, so in summary ...
1. 10w/40 or 15w/40
2. JASO DH1 rating as well as API service rating of CH-4 or better
3. meduim ash, say 1.3% to 1.5%
4. and oils built on group 2 or better base oils, semi synthetc would be my choice
I run a 15w/40, semi synthetic 1.3% ash JASO DH1, API CH-4 in my glxr
does that help
Longranger1 wrote:That's a good oil. Pretty hard to beat for quality.
from hereIn summary, oil change intervals offered up by manufacturers can only be described as acceptable’. Are 15,000-20,000km intervals designed to consider long engine life and reliability after the factory warranty expires? By the Looks of it, probably not. The best advice to sustain long engine Life in your diesel is to stick to the good old and time proven engine oil at 5,000km and oil and filter at 10.000km, while in new common-rail diesels you could get away possibly just doing both at every 10,000km, Remember that a cure happens with good preventative measures and regular oil changes will keep your diesel engine in tip top condition.
deermaster wrote:Longranger1 wrote:That's a good oil. Pretty hard to beat for quality.
Yes LR I thought it sounded like a good oil and the only thing about it is it is a bit pricey. But you can't put a price on longevity of your engine can you. I have started to find out that you only get what you pay for and have paid peanuts for things before and just gotten monkeys
sal_troy wrote:Hi har051. How are you finding the hi-tec fleetmaster 15w40.
Thanks
viking shippy wrote:Hi fellas I am doing an all fluids service
Can somebody tell me
What is the best oils to use for the gearbox/transfer and diffs..
Radiator and clutch and brake fluid..
grox wrote:My answer is Penriite use the guide on their website for all fluids . Auto transmission I've stayed with Mitsubishi. Iwould bet a heap on here use HPR diesel 5w 40 or 15w . As Aussie the oil guy early on posted meets the Jaso 1 specs has a high tbn required ash % . Yeah true it's my opinion but we run a few trucks dozers tractors etc and have had many a yack with people whose knowledge is good and have no reason to be biased. Eg they provide independent oil analysis. Others maybe as good but you can easily find Penrite cheapest I've found is 20l drums off repco .
leonbee wrote:Ready for my first oil change. Could someone tell me if the sump plug has a steel washer or a rubber ring seal.????
Can it be re- used or should I get one before I dump the black Pot....
Mitsu0069 wrote:The sump plug has a aluminium or a copper sealing washer that should be renewed every time that you remove the sump plug. A 10c washer to save a leak priceless
Cowboy Dave wrote:Better still get yourself into one of these:
http://www.fumoto.com.au/
You can buy one with a hose nipple on it. When you want to drop your oil you attach a 6 inch hose (ordinary 10mm clear hose will push on tight enough), point the hose into your container of choice, turn the tap and wait for it to drain with no spillages in the neatest oil drain you have ever done.
Yes it costs more than some washers but you'll never have to buy or find a crush washer again and you'll never end up with oil on your hands, half way down your arm and/or on the floor again.
Have a search on the forum for fumoto and you should find some pictures, part numbers and people being generally happy with them.
Cowboy Dave wrote:And you want the F106n, the n being the nipple thing for the hose. It's more like a hose barb really but since they call it a nipple who am I to argue?
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