Oils aint Oils

[coughy]

just orded mine

[Maxiy]

Just for those interested, just picked up 20lt of hi-tec oils, fleetmaster CI-4 15W/40 from my local Supa Lube distributions, set me back $99, which is pretty good.

Averages roughly $33 an oil change, pretty tidy price i think. Add on a after market oil filter (think i got one from sydney filters for about 20 bucks) you are looking at under $55 for an oil + Filter change, can't complain with that

[jedfoster]

Hey all joined today, after a little input on servicing advice. I'm starting to do my own servicing and wanting to know the best oils for Engine, Diff and Auto gearbox for my 2.5lt Diesel GLX-R? Also capacity. Any suggestions would be great. Cheers.
Getting the EGR blanked next week as well as the Manifold cleaned, Provent catchcan fitted as well as installing a K&N filter all the same day. Hopefully do a before and after Dyno and will be interesting to see what results come through. will keep you posted...

[coughy]

hi m8 and wecome to the forums i would suggest you start here..

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7737

[ogre0015]

Hi,

Anyone tried the Penrite HPR DIESEL 10 10W-40 (Semi Syn.)? Seems that is the oil that the Penrite website is suggesting for my 2008 Triton GLX-R (3.2L Diesel). Specs seem reasonably close to the Synforce Cruiser Oil (which I can't find here in Adelaide).

I have basically narrowed it down to the following oil options:
Caltex Delo 400
Penrite HPR DIESEL 10 10W-40 (Semi Syn.)
HPR DIESEL 5 5W-40 (Semi Syn.)

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Cheers

[ML2008]

G'day ogre0015, I am in Adelaide as well, thanks to help from many people on this forum, I have the right tools to do the servicing and after looking through this forum search engine I use Penrite oils only for the 2.5lt diesel and all its components as follows:

HPR 5W40 semi synthetic Engine oil for the winter and HPR 10W40 for summer.
ATF-Multi-vehicle Fully Synthetic Auto Transmission Oil
Gear Oil 80W-90 Transmission and Differential oil Gear oil

I am into my 2nd flush and re-new and I have noticed the truck oil wasn't anywhere near as dirty as first done, although lots of carbon colouration in the engine oil which is normal the grit level was way down which can only be good right.

Having said that I am only a novice at this self servicing game, but lots of fun, I will consider myself graduated when I can take off the inlet manifold scrape and clean it out, replace it without having any parts left over AND the engine restarts first time.

[ogre0015]

Hi ML2008,

My ute had the manifold properly cleaned when i purchased it and about 500kms later I installed the The SPVi EGR module MK3.1

Maybe consider investing in one of these (about $145 from memory). Will probably wait about 25-30,000 kms then take a look at the manifold to see if it is doing it's job (currently done about 5,000kms since installing).

With regards to the oil I basically have it down to either:

Castrol DELO 400 LE
Penrite HPR DIESEL 10 (10W-40 Semi Syn.)
CASTROL HAVOLINE FULLY SYNTHETIC 5W-40 (this is the recommended product on their website oil finder).
Penrite HPR 10 Full Synthetic

Keen for some advice?

[ML2008]

Already fitted SPVi EGR module, but it doesn't clean out what is already there.

So sooner rather than later, will dismantle the thing (Inlet Manifold) have the manifold cleaned at Triton Bits and Pieces at Lonsdale and refit, I believe they have an exchange service

Stick with Penrite, Australian made is all I need to say.

[alian]

I have read this thread until my eyes hurt. How many live out of the cooler whether?? Being on the coast in central Queensland I would assume something like a HPR10 full Synthetic would better suit the hotter climates. Would this make senses or am better off running with the 5-40 or 15-40 ???
Cheers Ian

[leonbee]

I have read this thread until my eyes hurt. How many live out of the cooler whether?? Being on the coast in central Queensland I would assume something like a HPR10 full Synthetic would better suit the hotter climates. Would this make senses or am better off running with the 5-40 or 15-40 ???
Cheers Ian

IN regards to temperature handling. They are all much the same for climates above o. Thinner oil gets the oil up out of the sump fast for lubrication. A thicker oil will leave some oil through the engine for start up lubrication.

Thinner oil is less drag on the motor and will save fuel. I find the engine rattles and no fuel difference.

15/40 is a good all rounder. Synthetic is only good for long drain intervals. If you are changing your oil before 12 months. Do not waste money on Synthetic oil buy mineral.

[alian]

So stick with the Delo 400 or HPR Diesel then. They both seem to be popular on here.

[leonbee]

So stick with the Delo 400 or HPR Diesel then. They both seem to be popular on here.

Yep all good.

[biggibbo]

I've been using Penrite HPR15 semi syn for yrs and recently started using nulon Full Synthetic but geez it's expensive.

Having just got brought a 200 series cruiser, and changing at 5000km intervals, have decided to go back to Delo 400 LE for the triton and the cruiser.

At $120 for a 20L drum, it's almost half price of the synthetic.

Can't justify Exxy oils when I'm dropping them so frequently. No real benefit as I'm not really using it for what it's designed for.

[leonbee]

I am using Castrol RX. Its mineral. Dump it every 5000km. Picked up a couple of 20L drums on special from super crap for $80.00 ech. Its specs are CI4- plus /Sl. Not a bad drop for regular dumps. Still wouldn't drink it thou

[leonbee]

The best thing about Caltex super RX is the high detergent. Designed for large truck engines however suitable for light duty diesels like the Triton. Great for 5-7k dumps to keep your engine clean.

I prefer to use this then pay gold for a synthetic that may or may not perform on a long term drain with all the soot from a diesel engine. However synthetics are suppose to be better with heat so if doing a caravan Australia towing marathon maybe.

Here is the product data sheet if your interested.

http://www.indoclean.com/pdf/PDS%20Cast ... 015W40.pdf

[leonbee]

Shell has introduced a free engine warranty if you use shell helix oil.

It covers all oil protected parts damaged by lack of lubrication due to oil break down.

You have to pay for the pull down of the engine to prove it.

In my opinion. It's unlikely even the lowest spec oil will cause enough wear for an engine to fail early if changed at the correct intervals.

Found a copy of the warranty here. It's for India, most likely the same

https://warranty.shell.com/helix/in#termsAndConditions

[itsamitsi]

I had been using Delo 400 for years in everything until I bought a PC Challenger. I now use Gulf/Western Global Plus which is semi synthetic and looks to fit the required criteria for the Challenger very well.

[sal_troy]

Hi,

Does anyone use or recommend Gulf Western Top Dog XDO 15w40 in their mn triton. This is specified on the web site for the tritons. Seems to be readily available and reasonably priced from supercheap.

Cheers
sal_troy

[deermaster]

Hi,

Anyone tried the Penrite HPR DIESEL 10 10W-40 (Semi Syn.)? Seems that is the oil that the Penrite website is suggesting for my 2008 Triton GLX-R (3.2L Diesel). Specs seem reasonably close to the Synforce Cruiser Oil (which I can't find here in Adelaide).

I have basically narrowed it down to the following oil options:
Caltex Delo 400
Penrite HPR DIESEL 10 10W-40 (Semi Syn.)
HPR DIESEL 5 5W-40 (Semi Syn.)

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Cheers

I use the HPR Diesel 15 its 15W-50 semi synthetic and I find it very good

[Cowboy Dave]

I've started using that one too after tony told me that's what he uses on his. Seems like oil when I tip it in and the engine still runs so that meets my criteria.

[biggibbo]

Same oil I've used for the last 130,000 km. 250,000 km on it now and counting.

If you wait for the 20% off at supercheap etc can get for around $55 for a 10L drum

[jrs184]

I've started using that one too after tony told me that's what he uses on his. Seems like oil when I tip it in and the engine still runs so that meets my criteria.

How long before there is an onboard scan system monitoring the oil condition and let's you know that an oil change is required, my friend changes the buses oil up to 100,000km and then only if the tested oil indicates it is needed...

[Cowboy Dave]

Sounds like a good idea. I figure if I do it before the engine runs to a grinding halt then I've probably picked it about right. Not trusting my judgment on that though, I tend to change every 7,500 kms. Which I know is too soon, but aside from money and the environment it can't really hurt can it?

The automatic alert sounds cool. My first thought was that turbidity might serve as some sort of measure a sensor could read but I suppose there's a lot more to oil than how dirty it gets. You'd probably have to measure 20 different things on the fly for it to work. Which in turn probably explains why they haven't invented it just yet.

[Maxiy]

Sounds like a good idea. I figure if I do it before the engine runs to a grinding halt then I've probably picked it about right. Not trusting my judgment on that though, I tend to change every 7,500 kms. Which I know is too soon, but aside from money and the environment it can't really hurt can it?

The automatic alert sounds cool. My first thought was that turbidity might serve as some sort of measure a sensor could read but I suppose there's a lot more to oil than how dirty it gets. You'd probably have to measure 20 different things on the fly for it to work. Which in turn probably explains why they haven't invented it just yet.

They have invented it, the little oil can on your dash. If it comes on you have no oil and you are stuffed

[jrs184]

Sounds like a good idea. I figure if I do it before the engine runs to a grinding halt then I've probably picked it about right. Not trusting my judgment on that though, I tend to change every 7,500 kms. Which I know is too soon, but aside from money and the environment it can't really hurt can it?

The automatic alert sounds cool. My first thought was that turbidity might serve as some sort of measure a sensor could read but I suppose there's a lot more to oil than how dirty it gets. You'd probably have to measure 20 different things on the fly for it to work. Which in turn probably explains why they haven't invented it just yet.

They have invented it, the little oil can on your dash. If it comes on you have no oil and you are stuffed

They have invented it, but so far only the in the lab, which would create squeaks and other complaints from the rear springs if you had to tote it around the southern hemisphere in the tub of the dual cab...