SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Mon Jun 27, 2016 6:01 pm

Drop down hitch
2016-06-27 16.39.28.jpg


Treds
2016-06-27 16.39.54.jpg
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby NowForThe5th on Mon Jun 27, 2016 7:05 pm

Hitch looks neat and removable for wheeling, so a good solution.

Couldn't help noticing the non-rated shackle with a bolt stuck through it, though. :shock:
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Mon Jun 27, 2016 11:14 pm

Tex wrote:Might be a pain to get the treads out when you're bogged to the diff :)


I wouldn't think in that situation treds would help anyway. I have generally only used them in light bog situations, especially with the trailer on. Besides its more of there for just storage. I would bring them out on planned trips.

Hoping with the added height with the new boots I won't be skull-dragging the diff anymore.
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Tue Jul 26, 2016 6:35 pm

The pipe seal/gasket that connects to the intercooler is leaking oil, well more like being forced out under pressure I am running fairly high boost 30-35. The bolts seem tight and using a torque wrench will break something i presume.

What to do? All other pipes apart from the outlet from the intercooler have been fitted with aftermarket gear.

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SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby viking shippy on Tue Jul 26, 2016 6:46 pm

A new gasket and some
permaseal or some rvt silicone without a gasket.. You could also file the mating surfaces flat with a file and check they are dead flat with a steel rule.
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Tue Jul 26, 2016 7:16 pm

okily dokily do
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Thu Jul 28, 2016 5:31 pm

Click to view larger picture

Got some gear

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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Mon Aug 01, 2016 5:09 pm

So I removed my intercooler today as the inlet pipe was leaking. Gave it a rinse with petrol and replaced the metal gasket. When I put it back the bolt closest to the leak wouldn't do up tight. Hence the leak. I doubt it can be retapped. How do fix.

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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby Cowboy Dave on Mon Aug 01, 2016 5:43 pm

Is there space to go one size bigger and recap that?

Or room for a nut on the back?
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Tue Aug 02, 2016 10:14 am

Ended up putting a longer one in. Seems to be working for the moment. touch wood.
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby coughy on Tue Aug 02, 2016 8:54 pm

put a heli coil in it ;)
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Tue Aug 16, 2016 10:00 am

Had my dba 4000 t3 slotted rotors, 4wd pads and braided lines installed for a week now and am very unimpressed. I am heading back to the installer today.

I am getting brake fade very early, I assume there is an install issue?

Coming up to lights I will brake once lightly, then a second time after dropping to second and final as coming to a stop - I have to put excessive force due to brake fade. Its quite a concern when I am towing a trailer 5 days a week.

I never had the issue with my OEM brakes.

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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby Homer on Tue Aug 16, 2016 10:26 am

Unless it's a bleed problem, then it would be unusual to be an install issue. Oem pads are generally softer and stop better, but you don't get the same life out if them if course.
I found the Oem rotors though hot spot quickly so aftermarket should be better for that.
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Tue Aug 16, 2016 1:24 pm

How do i determine if its a bleed problem

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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby Homer on Tue Aug 16, 2016 1:28 pm

If your pedal is soft/spongey and sinks towards the floor
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Tue Aug 16, 2016 2:29 pm

no its the opposite, i have to really push hard with not much braking power.

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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby borngeek on Tue Aug 16, 2016 3:50 pm

Sounds like you ordered the bendix heavy duty pads. They are not like OEM stock pads, they are really hard.

I don't think you know what brake fade is.
They make a 4x4 medium pad that is softer. Nothing as soft as standard OEM ones.

To bed them in go do, without a trailer, and without anyone near you, a bedding in run. Just jumping on and off the brakes getting them super hot, then letting them cool by rolling without brakes and do again. Then roll off the heat in them ---do not stop! roll it off so they not warp.

They are very hard pads but once you have them bedded in you will enjoy the braking and learn how to apply it.

//your trailer has brakes? what is its weight.. just curious not relevant.
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Tue Aug 16, 2016 4:50 pm

Hi geek. Pretty sure I did bedding in run the day I had them installed. Will go for a run tomorrow. How many times do you suggest...
Trailer is a tandem 2.5T with brakes.

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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby snowman on Tue Aug 16, 2016 5:08 pm

SLIMaxPower wrote:Hi geek. Pretty sure I did bedding in run the day I had them installed. Will go for a run tomorrow. How many times do you suggest...
Trailer is a tandem 2.5T with brakes.

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the bedding in process is written on the instructions in the rotor box. probably a bit late now.

are your rears adjusted up as well.
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Tue Aug 16, 2016 5:14 pm

paid a mob to install them. rears were adjusted

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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby coughy on Tue Aug 16, 2016 6:18 pm

have you checked your brake booster??? has vacuum???
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Tue Aug 16, 2016 6:26 pm

coughy wrote:have you checked your brake booster??? has vacuum???



Where and how ?
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby SLIMaxPower on Wed Aug 17, 2016 6:59 pm

bump Coughy

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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby coughy on Thu Aug 18, 2016 3:59 pm

oh sorry didnt see this
um run the car and pull the 1/2" hose of the booster on the firewall under the bonnet
you will hear the vacum if u have it
while hose of go press brake pedal and see if there is a change or not??
if no change it would apaer your booster is faulty
if pedal goes harder to push then the booster is working...
there is a proper way to test in the mistsubishi manual if you wont to have a read one night...
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Re: SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

Postby Stoneman on Thu Aug 18, 2016 8:24 pm

Pretty sure bedding in of the bendix brake pads is a thing of the past.
Check there web site

Installed the same pads on my pajero with no issue
Need a little more to warm up, far better than stock pads as they handle heat a lot better
You may even hear a bit of squeaking in the morning when you first press on them
But when warm they are a great pad :)

Sounds like you have lost brake pressure being it hard to press.
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