SLIMax's Break It and Build It Thread

[SLIMaxPower]

My mn started fine this morning. An half and a half later after a meeting it stalls after leaving a carpark with a trailer in tow. Would turnover but not start.

Had someone take my trailer home. Under bonnet inspection shows a fused bus-bar I added had a 20A fuse melted into the busbar.

Had it towed home, removed the bus-bar and and made safe all the wires. Removed my chip-it. Still won't start.

Can't see any blown fuses in the engine bay or cabin.

Ideas ?

edit. wont pushstart and ultraguage not starting.

edit. Unplugged and plugged back in Ultraguage is now working and no codes. Tried spare key as well.

[BillMcQuade]

Try checking the fuses with a meter. Sometimes fuses blow on the edge. While you are there, test for power at the fuse block. Check that when you turn the key, that there is actually current flowing to the starter motor solenoid.

You can also do a flow check to see if the lift pump is working.

[RHKTriton]

Do the Tritons have a lift pump?

A fried SCV or power to it maybe worth checking.

The bus bar you added seems the focal point of the problem. What was connected to it and what other 'standard' wiring could have come in contact with the additional circuits?

If the motor is being turned over by the starter then basically I'd work through the usual list,
Fuel, air, sensors, injectors, ecu, etc.

[furious]

test the battery. you may have fried it.

[SLIMaxPower]

Stealer says there is no fuel pressure.

Currently swapping out the ECU for another one.

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[SLIMaxPower]

Now they think its the injector pump...

[SLIMaxPower]

Glad I have professionals working on it

[BillMcQuade]

Do the Tritons have a lift pump?

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that they have a low pressure pump to feed the fuel up from the tank.

Of course, I could also be wrong...

[SLIMaxPower]

They are pretty certain its the injector pump but have to follow warranty protocols first - which means they will find anyway to deny a claim 3yr old 55000Kms

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[giddyup]

I am running fairly high boost 30-35.

You seriously want to complain about Mitsubishi looking for anything to deny warranty?

Modify cars and accept the problems that come with it.

[SLIMaxPower]

heh. that was a long time ago.

Now its a very mild tune and boost set to 22 which is within normal parameters.

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[Quinny]

[SLIMaxPower]

ehe

btw it has a interim service every month apart from when scheduled services are due so I do expect more consideration when it comes to warranty regardless of what mods are on. ty

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[Quinny]

Just havin' a bit of fun

[SLIMaxPower]

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[SLIMaxPower]

Now its the fuel rail itself. Warranty job.


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[SLIMaxPower]

Can please I start another thread with a poll as to what the next problem is...

[BillMcQuade]

Can please I start another thread with a poll as to what the next problem is...

Left hand rear wheel bearing harmonics disturbing the Chi of the Diesel fuel.

[SLIMaxPower]

Triton is back on deck, pity the aircon suxorz. Been spoilt driving the missus kluger for the past week with blizzard that actually works.

I wonder if i can retro fit the aircon from the kluger into the triton.

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[RHKTriton]

I'm still thinking having a hot heater core sitting in the ducting can't help the efficiency of an air conditioner.


A bypass valve that can be operated during ac use would provide a significant improvement.

The other problem is the amount of heat coming through the floor.

Hopefully you have a better run now SLI'.

[SLIMaxPower]

Yes

They said that it's in need of a valve adjustment but as its covered in the 60k service coming up they didn't bother asking me - which is weird.

I am about to drop down a few microns in my secondary filter, and install a catch can.

PS. The mechanic reconnected the chip.

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[BillMcQuade]

I'm still thinking having a hot heater core sitting in the ducting can't help the efficiency of an air conditioner. A bypass valve that can be operated during ac use would provide a significant improvement.

This could be a new area for mods. I might have a look at this...

The other problem is the amount of heat coming through the floor.

I wrapped my dump pipe in 3 layers of exhaust wrap, and it made heaps of difference.

[SLIMaxPower]

No way am I taking that damn dump pipe off the back of the turbo. I was lucky to get it done up properly after snapping a stud.

[SLIMaxPower]

Will be throwing on a 3micron secondary instead of what is on now.

Still undecided on catch-can. its had an egr mod on since purchase. There is obvious slight oil leakage around some of my flexible links to charge pipe and intake - but I presume thats expected with the amount of boost I run (25psi and full ramp up)

[coughy]

yep normal m8 catch can stops that