Salt's V6 ML

[salt36]

The idea is to change the timing of the camshafts. The engine will make a bit more torque at lower rpm by advancing the camshaft timing a few degrees. Not to mention that the factory tolerances may have the camshafts not ideally timed.

This was definitely the case as the drivers side was about three degrees retarded and the passenger side about one degree retarded. So by bringing both camshafts to 6 degrees advance I hope to gain a little more torque. Testing will reveal what is the best timing advance but all the info I have seen points to 6 degrees being optimum

I made a piston stop from an old spark plug to find the true top dead centre of each front piston, set my wire marker to it on the degree wheel. Then used the dial indicator to determine when the valves were opening and then turn the adjustable gears to suit the 6 degree advance

I have only gotten this far today, hopefully get it all back together tomorrow and drive....

[srb]

Nice work Salty. B)

[snowman]

so in laymans terms those two blue things are cam gears and provide infinite adjustment?

[Tony]

Much better than the days we used to drill several off set holes for the roll pin.

I still have the degree wheel and dial gauge from the late 80's.

[Cowboy Dave]

Needs more blue stuff...

[hvac guy]

Go on, index the sparkplags then lol

[coughy]

oh shiney go fast bits i like.....
@ Tony lol dint think i would hear that again 80 models vintage now hehehe

[salt36]

so in laymans terms those two blue things are cam gears and provide infinite adjustment?

Sort of, can adjust the timing of each camshaft up to + or - 12 degrees.

You wouldn't go any further as performance would be reduced and valves would start to hit pistons

[Tony]

oh shiney go fast bits i like.....
@ Tony lol dint think i would hear that again 80 models vintage now hehehe

You saying I'm vintage?

Should I mention all the 4G54 heads, blocks, twin carby manifolds, turbo manifold etc. All scrap these days as not worth messing on with. Although the turbo 4G54 had enough torque to screw your eyeballs out in those days. Was going in a hill climb project. LC Lancer. All out the back of the shed and now scrap.

Sorry for off topic salt. Back to V6 and vintage.

[salt36]

Go the vintage

Got it all together today and went for hoon around the suburb and up the HWY to set the fuel trims.

Going well, no test runs yet, might be bothered next weekend and see whether torque has improved.

I think the mid range has improved, seems to pull harder from 3000 rpm, but it might be me as I have not driven the Triton for a month....

Third gear runs will tell the story

[salt36]

My radiator is still leaking

I have some seen some two part repair stuff at the parts store, will grab some this week and give it a try.

Otherwise it is buy another radiator, NOT alloy though.....

[snowman]

My radiator is still leaking

I have some seen some two part repair stuff at the parts store, will grab some this week and give it a try.

Otherwise it is buy another radiator, NOT alloy though.....

that's not your first radiator is it? what is the issue with the alloy? corrosion or wear?

[salt36]

The Radiator guy said the Alloy radiators are too rigid and don't handle the vibration and chassis flex as well as other types.
He mentioned that a Copper/Brass radiator would be a better solution and have the same cooling capacity.

There is an aftermarket replacement radiator with a 27mm core and plastic tanks that may be sufficient?

Yes my second radiator as the factory V6 one has a 12mm core

[mad992]

Yes copper /brass will be the go mate less stress

[Black Diamond]

My radiator is still leaking

I have some seen some two part repair stuff at the parts store, will grab some this week and give it a try.

Otherwise it is buy another radiator, NOT alloy though.....

If you need a hand Craig let me know, I have experience in this area

[mattz]

My radiator is still leaking

I have some seen some two part repair stuff at the parts store, will grab some this week and give it a try.

Otherwise it is buy another radiator, NOT alloy though.....

If you need a hand Craig let me know, I have experience in this area

Funny you should say that......I went and bought some "kneed it" today to pop in my spares kit for my up coming trip.

[salt36]

I bought some of this stuff,

http://www.rapid-fix.com/newsite/index. ... -can-i-fix

Haven't used it yet but the video's look promising

[coughy]

looks good salt where to buy and cost??
looks like a good thing for the glove box

[salt36]

Mate I bought from the local bearings/agricultural parts shop.

I think it is available from several national chain stores too....Yes it is !

http://www.rapidfixaustralia.com.au/stockists/

I got the smaller size, was about $30

[Black Diamond]

looks good salt where to buy and cost??
looks like a good thing for the glove box

It's worth its weight in gold believe me

[ratstriton]

Are you still running the radiator we repaired mate.....
And still have those boxs for you mate

[Black Diamond]

Are you still running the radiator we repaired mate.....
And still have those boxs for you mate

:lol; na I changed that a few weeks later....still hadn't leaked though I'll give you a ring about those boxes Tim

Cheers John

[salt36]

I tried the Rapid Fix on my radiator today.

Pretty easy to apply, the powder pours out of the bottle almost like liquid. I had the shed door open at first and the powder blew away with the wind
So shut door and all good

I put a heap of layers, powder, liquid-- powder, liquid etc. Will leave it overnite to cure properly and see what happens.

The green circles are the radiator guy's repair and in the red square is the Rapid Fix I did today....

The damage to the fins was from the radiator guy

[coughy]

looks ok to me m8 and better than rad guys attempt

[srb]

It's good stuff that rapid fix. Ive been using it for last 5years on all sorts. Has its limitations on repairs that need to flex but good for emergency situations or temporary repairs like your rad.