Salt's V6 ML

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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby cjsxrt on Mon Feb 15, 2016 7:34 am

Yeah they arent cheap depending on who you go through they are $400-$500 each just going to go a whole exhaust just saving my coin to get it done doesnt help we are moving aswell so makes saving a little harder
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby rokster on Mon Feb 15, 2016 2:37 pm

salt36 wrote:Could be many things contributing.
Auto or manual ?
Do you run LPG ?
How many K's?
Serviced regularly ?
Depending on K's new spark plugs ?
How long have you owned the Triton and what sort of driving do you mostly do, city, HWY etc.


Salt.. thanks for the reply -

Auto, no LPG, 127k, I've only had it for 5 months now. Had the 120k service done - no idea about service history prior. All-over the vehicle looks well looked after, so I suspect the services would have been done as needed. Driving, mostly highway.
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Mon Feb 15, 2016 4:55 pm

Plugs are due at the 105k service, as is the timing belt.

Might be worth pulling out no 1 plug and having a look, should still be relatively clean and a light brown coating starting to form on the white porcelain. If the coating is black and the three electrodes are coated with thick black carbon then I would say they are the original. If so the timing belt would also be the original and both of these will result in a heap more fuel being used. Timing belts do stretch over time and will retard the camshafts making the engine use more fuel.

That would be the first place to look.

Might be worth running a couple of tanks with injector cleaner added as well.
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby rokster on Mon Feb 15, 2016 4:58 pm

Thanks mate !
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Mon Feb 15, 2016 6:56 pm

No probs, let me know how you go :)
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Wed Feb 24, 2016 7:27 pm

The last three days have been very hot and have tested the cooling system....

Monday was hottest at 42 deg, sitting on 100 K's the engine coolant temp stayed at 90 degrees with the A/C on and fan on three. Thermo fan ran continuously.

Tuesday was 40 deg, as above, 100 K's and A/C on, engine coolant sat at 88 degrees with thermo fan running continuously.

Today was 38 deg and the coolant temps fluctuated between 86 to 90 degrees as the thermo fan stopped and started.

Previous days around 31- 35 degrees I switched the thermo fan to start and stop with the A/C compressor, engine coolant did not go above 86 degrees. :D

When hotter I don't have the thermo fan switched to run with the A/C as when the thermo fan starts it powers the A/C compressor which would run continuous (as the fan does) and probably burst lines or freeze condensor or something :roll:

Anyway pretty happy with how it is all working now, no more overheating problems :D

So to update, I have the radiator from a rattler ( 27mm thick cores compared to the stock V6 12mm cores )
Also running a Ford FG 20 inch electric thermo fan mounted in the stock radiator shroud.

Engine fan is deleted.

Fan is controlled by a cheap digital box thing with a sensor mounted on the outside of the aluminium water transfer tube that carries the hottest water to the thermostat.

So far very reliable, once I sorted out the wiring for the thermo fan :roll: 70 Amp gear is the go :D
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Sat Apr 30, 2016 10:46 am

After fitting new head gaskets over Christmas break my engine is back to where it was and starting to push air into the coolant again :roll:

I did some research and a lot of mechanics recommend using new head bolts and not re-using the old ones.
The reason being that the old head bolts, once undone can lose their 'elasticity'
With aluminium heads expanding and contracting with engine temps the bolts need to be able to stretch and shrink back again when cold. The used head bolts will stretch but not shrink back as they should.

This would explain why some of the bolts seemed a bit loose last time.

So do it all again :( But this time I am not removing the heads, I will loosen all bolts to about 40NM and replace them one by one, torque them to 40NM and then bring them to full torque as per the factory manual (110 NM in three stages)

Hopefully it works :?

To make it easier to work on I lowered the front of the Triton, makes a massive difference to how easy it is to reach everything in the engine bay :lol: :D :D
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby NowForThe5th on Sat Apr 30, 2016 11:56 am

:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby coughy on Sat Apr 30, 2016 12:32 pm

hehehehe
just on this note have you had the hardness of the heads tested???
when removing the old head bolts have a look at the seating of the bolts where the washer goes is it soft or look like the washer is biting in to it??
you will know what i mean if you look
when i was building engines many years ago the diesels would need over the shoulder bolts
now when u run the engine you shouldnt put coolant in until 2000 kms have been done as this alows the head gaskets to bed in
if there is a little bit of leakage like there all ways is the water will get under the gasket and just evapourate away
but if the coolant is in there the coolant stays there and it wont seal very well and the water disapates
did you use anysort of coating on the head gaskets??
copper coat or hylomar i think it was called

Generally speaking, almost all aftermarket head gaskets (both composite and MLS) are designed to be used without additional chemical sealants (i.e. hylomar). The use of an additional chemical sealant on gaskets not designed for it will actually do more harm than good and affect the gaskets ability to seal.
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Sat Apr 30, 2016 5:00 pm

Cool, thanks mate.

No the heads are fine where the washers sit.

I use the genuine gaskets which are expensive but they are in two halves, two steel gaskets.
Each one has a coating of some kind already on it around the cylinders, oil and water passages. I assume they are the best option as there are not many aftermarket available unless going really thick to reduce compression for turbo or supercharger applications.

When I put the new gaskets on I ran straight water, no coolant for a couple of months at least. Has a rust inhibitor in there now, no coolant or Glycol whatever it is called :?

Same story with the bolts today, some seemed looser than others.

I have the set of bolts from the 380 engine spare so I checked the length of all of them, all very close. The bolts I just took out were up to 1mm longer than both the new ones and the spare 380 ones so definitely stretched.

I put a new set of plugs in while I was in there, hopefully I wont be doing this again any time soon :)

Seems to be running better now, had a sort of miss before at idle which is gone now, exhaust is a touch louder at idle too so good signs. Will test drive tomorrow.
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby Homer on Sat Apr 30, 2016 5:28 pm

Hope the puncture repair kit is handy....assuming like me, you would have just put a pick through the sidewalls :P :lol:

On a serious note, did you figure out why the last gaskets leaked?
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby Tony on Sat Apr 30, 2016 6:04 pm

Because it is a v6 and can not out do an MN.

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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Sun May 01, 2016 5:20 am

:lol: :lol:

Homer I think because the bolts stretched there was not enough clamping force on the gaskets letting them leak a bit.
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby mattz on Sun May 01, 2016 6:10 am

Bugger......hope that's all it is and you don't have to do all that hard work again.
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby hvac guy on Mon May 02, 2016 4:18 pm

Chuck a straight edge across the thread and you might see the stretch
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby coughy on Mon May 02, 2016 5:31 pm

count the threads per inch and see
more than likely it is the shaft not the threads
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Mon May 02, 2016 8:05 pm

Yep the threads are fine, checked them all. Stretch is in the shaft...

Running much better now with all cylinders sealing 8-)
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby coughy on Mon May 02, 2016 8:43 pm

tested with some black Liquorice down the road lol
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Wed May 04, 2016 8:05 pm

coughy wrote:tested with some black Liquorice down the road lol


:lol: :lol: Yeah the tyres I have on now don't seem to grip very well ;)
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Wed Jul 20, 2016 12:30 pm

New tyres today, 245/75/16 Cooper ST-Maxx 8-)

Good price with the current discounts, $325 per tyre, fitted and balanced ;)

Just need to get them dirty :lol: :lol:
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Sat Nov 26, 2016 2:44 pm

How many of you have the greaseable shackles on the rear springs. Well I do and they are in a real mongrel spot.

Today I sorted the problem, barely even need to bend over to grease em now :D

Click to view larger pictureIMG_20161126_123358 by

Click to view larger pictureIMG_20161126_123352 by

Click to view larger pictureIMG_20161126_124044 by

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Click to view larger pictureIMG_20161126_123328 by

Not a real cheap exercise but worth it for me anyway.

I don't know how the tube will go moving with the shackles while driving, but have heaps left over so should be enough for a while.

Looks like I dripped some paint on the inside :lol: :lol:

Finally found a use for the holes in the back, just had to make em bigger 8-) 8-)
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby 4wd26 on Sat Nov 26, 2016 2:57 pm

that's a pretty good idea.
I have the 90 degree ones after my original ones used to foul on the exhaust.

lots to change under the tub in the near future, will see what happens
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Sat Nov 26, 2016 3:18 pm

I had the 90 degree ones but when they were tight they were not in a good position and when not tight really awkward to get grease in them.

The ARB rear bar is mostly what gets in the way. My old work ute had a tray and the grease nipples were easy as to get to.
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby 4wd26 on Sat Nov 26, 2016 4:30 pm

yep ARB rear bar here as well- that may have been slightly modified
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Sun Jan 01, 2017 8:38 pm

Today I was on a mission.

Some time ago I bought aftermarket control arm bushes, upper and lower.

I tried at the time to press out the old bushes resulting in a bent upper control arm :oops:
Further research revealed they are not easily pressed out..... no kidding :roll:

So after purchasing a new upper control arm I fitted the lot today.
Certainly tested my skills....

So I removed the control arms one by one and drilled out the old rubber bush. Heaps of holes and get rid of the rubber to pull the inside metal part out. Then I carefully hacksawed the outer metal sleeve in two spots to release the tension and tapped it out of the control arm.
Press the new bush in and re fit to the Triton, X 2 each control arm.

What a mission !

Anyway I completed the lot and went for a test drive.
Wow I am driving a new vehicle again, no more clunks from the front and superb handling :D
The bumps used to transfer through the steering wheel and make it shudder, not anymore :D

Sorry no photos as I wanted to get it all done today.

Tomorrow's mission is to pull the front diff out and work out why the Lokka is skipping under power....
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