i havent heard about my tray in a few weeks, it should be ready very soon,
the venoms are on back order.
RTT came in, it came on a pallet and the bloke loading it had no idea, there were a few boxes with it. i thought it would be annexx, pegs, ropes. so i took her home and opened it up. the extra boxes were ironman shocks and shackles. so i did the right thing and took them back.. after i checked to see if they would fit on the triton
i have always wanted maxtracks or the like, but wasnt a fan of paying $300 for plastic. i remember reading a 4wdAction mag when they did a comparo of all the traction aids, they had a set of waffleboards and i loved the idea bridging. i chased up the price but didnt have the cash. Anywho ebayUK was the easiest source but took forever to organise. In the mean time i kept googling and found "tufftraxx" here in Australia.
Yet to be tested.
Driving home from helping the old man with some concreting, Autopro had their opening sale 25% off the entire floor stock. so i took advantage of the engel range they had. i wanted the 40L but they dont stock them on the floor so i grabbed the 32L. which in turn might be a good compromise with tray space.
i was keen to get out and test the tuff tracks but my little 4 legged friend broke his leg, so most of my time is now devoted to him. poor little fella has the biggest heart and is a giant sook.
He took off behind me and ran out of leash, did a kind of corkscrew backflip and spiral fractured his tibia.
so while keeping him company i slowly finished the first stage of the tidy up project.
i know they are pricey but they are neat, labeled and the mechanism feels strong.
this task took my forever and just wouldnt work easily.
the original idea was as it would seem, carling switches, female spade terminals. until you go to close the lid..
next option was the switch housing to gain a few mm and right angle insulated spade terminals or "insulated flag terminals" but you need a special crimper and hard to find here in OZ, this method is a tad pricey. next up solder.
everything is soldered in such a way that it cant move. all connections have to break before it comes free.
the next drama was trying to get the cables to run freely to still operate while pivoting. there are some extra "speed holes" in the housing.
next was load, each light is 19 ohms, 2 lights per switch. all paralleled up is around 8amps. Cat 5 which i use for relay control is only good for around 800mA. so 2.5mm cable is good for 20amps. so i had to run another cable.