How to Body Lift an MN/ML

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How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby BEN115 on Sun Jun 05, 2011 7:47 pm

Well this thread is for what exactly the subject says, how to body lift an MN or Ml. mine is an MN, so forgive me if there are any minor differences. As i could not really find any how to's on the net, all be it i didnt search very hard i did my lift with extreme caution and if i were to do it again not all these steps would be followed,but i will show you step by step how i did mine. it was suprisingly very very easy. Keep in mind mine is a single cab and dual cabs have an extra fastening point. note all pictures are taken post lift. any questions dont hesitate to ask. descriptions/steps are under photos. click photos to view the complete picture.

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1. first i unbolted the mounts for the handbrake cable on both sides.



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2.next i un mounted the wiring loom for the gearbox so there was 'slack' for when the body comes away from the gearbox.



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3.Nothing has to be done to the clutch as the rubber hydraulic line for it is mounted to the body lower than where is mounts to the gearbox, so it gains slack as the body comes up inline with it.




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4. in the picture mine is mounted to a bracket i havnt quite finished making, but this bracket secures the steering input shaft and must be unbolted from the chasis in order to remove the steering input shaft from its spline on the rack. a bracket must be made, same as mine, to re secure the mount, the input shaft clears the firewall by about 15mm, the bottom section of the shaft can be extended if you wish.




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5. these vacuum lines have to be disconnected.



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6.the factory earth strap on the front left has to be extended/replaced.



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7. i removed the wiring loom bracket from the firewall just incase.



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8.the fan and shrowd must be removed, iv not put my shrowd back on as i intend to install thermo fans soon. havnt driven in traffic yet, hardly ever do, but according to my scan guage so far it doesnt run any hotter. Also i am monitoring the bottom radiator hose as it is only approx 15mm from the fan blades. i was going to just chop the bottom out of the shrowd but lazyness got the better of me. if not re fitting the shrowd the expansion tank line must be secured to the top of the radiator.




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9. the wiring loom from the battery must be uncliped from the body and also where it mounts to the engine.





10. oops! not pictured, the power steering reservoir should be removed when lifting body. then i simply turned the hose for a better fit. also the rubber splash guards in the wheel well have to be unmounted from the chassis.




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11. i removed my airbox for better visability for the topside 'watcher'. the standard intake pipe still fits.





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12. pre lifting the body i stretched by hand the coiled up brake lines to avoid them kinking during lifting.







13. FUN TIME! unbolt all body mounts, the front two are acessed through the wheel arch, middle two under the carpet in the footwell's, kick pannels must be removed. the rear mounts are also under the carpet right near teh seat belt. it is advised to use a 2 post hoist with direct down function to lift the body from the chassis, i chocked both sides of a wheel to make lining up again an easy task.. if you are doing a single cab both seats must be put all the way forward and add as much weight as you can as far rearward of the cab. i used 220kg. this is because the front is alot heavier and it does not lift the front. i had a mate helping me so i was under the car on a creeper keeping an eye on everything underneath while he was keeping an eye on everything in the engine bay. we went one quick push of the up button at a time constantly re checking EVERYTHING! and also guiding the unwinding/manipulating the brake lines.get the body high enough so the lift blocks(50mm) fit inbetween the rubber bushes(chassis) and the body.make sure to put all bolts in before you lower the body again. lower body onto the blocks and your done. refit everything you took off. and then you are on your way to fitting 35's ;)

14. finally, not done yet, the centre console has to be moved backwards 15mm which is easy enough, there is a big gap from factory at the front of it so simply drill new holes 15mm further forward and close teh factory gap, this is needed so second gear can be selected.

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Last edited by BEN115 on Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby jop on Sun Jun 05, 2011 7:51 pm

Nice write up - good work 8-)
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby 4wd26 on Sun Jun 05, 2011 7:57 pm

top job- thanks for taking the time to document the steps.
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby ag9111 on Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:26 pm

Great write up Ben. Were did you get the liftkit from? Was everything included?

Did you have to do anything with the steering spline and the gear sticks
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby BEN115 on Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:31 pm

ah i got the lift blocks from superior engineering, google them, they dont yet do a complete kit, but i just went to my local bolt shop and bought 50mm longer bolts. the blocks (12) were 300, and 35 for the bolts. well worth it if you can do it yourself. im going to paint the ones on the tray black so they dont stand out as much.
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby ag9111 on Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:41 pm

Was there a reason that you put the spacers on top of the rubbers. thought it would be the other way round. Is there crush tubes in the rubbers
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby BEN115 on Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:44 pm

i went ontop as the top of the rubber is also metal..... i cant feel any 'new' vibrations.
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby BEN115 on Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:48 pm

sorry didnt see the other question before, with the steering spline iv just changed where the support bracket mounts, i did bend it into a better fitting shape in order for it to run parallel with the steering shaft.

the gearsticks are fine, just the centre console has to be moved 15mm backwards as second gear cannot be selected.
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby tezza08 on Mon Jun 06, 2011 4:39 am

good write up mate :D so when do we see it with 35's :twisted:
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby Homer on Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:46 am

Good write up mate, well done!
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby BEN115 on Mon Jun 06, 2011 9:21 am

Ah i hope to have 35's by the end of the year. Going in for. Custom snorkle and custom xrox style bar in two weeks. Cant wait.
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby andyj on Fri Jun 10, 2011 9:00 pm

Will look the goods when the 35's are on Ben....
Or as Speedy Gonzalez once said, it won't hurt, did it
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby fridgie on Mon Jul 25, 2011 7:24 pm

BUMP :mrgreen:

Any progress on this with the snorkel and front bar??
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby Mattstruck on Mon Jul 25, 2011 7:43 pm

Well done mate. So whos the first to do a dual cab with tub!!

Love to know how to do that!

Bet its tricky!! ;)
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby 2010mntriton on Wed Sep 07, 2011 12:56 pm

BEN115, hey mate where did you get those rims and tyres from
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby BEN115 on Wed Sep 07, 2011 8:32 pm

hey guys sorry, been a while. ah update, well the guy who is doin the bar and snorkle, who i found out is the guy who does all roothi's stuff, had his hands full, so its deffinatly going in on the 19th for an extreme facelift! cant wait!

in regards to the 4dr with tub, im in the process of convincing my mate to do it, we will see how it goes!

2010mntriton : the wheels and tyres are from opposite lock springwood. rims are just dynamic sunnys, tyres 275/70R16 silverstone ex's.
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby 2010mntriton on Wed Sep 14, 2011 10:00 am

BEN115 wrote:hey guys sorry, been a while. ah update, well the guy who is doin the bar and snorkle, who i found out is the guy who does all roothi's stuff, had his hands full, so its deffinatly going in on the 19th for an extreme facelift! cant wait!

in regards to the 4dr with tub, im in the process of convincing my mate to do it, we will see how it goes!

2010mntriton : the wheels and tyres are from opposite lock springwood. rims are just dynamic sunnys, tyres 275/70R16 silverstone ex's.

thanks
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby Sky Miner on Sun Oct 02, 2011 6:33 pm

Great lift Ben115 8-)
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby glx truck truck on Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:32 am

awsome write up man i just brought a body lift for my ml triton dual cab and i was just thinking shit its going to be a nightmare! but reading all of your tips and directions makes it a little less confusing
but i have one question if you dont have acces to a 2 post lift what would surfise
?
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby Sky Miner on Sat Jul 28, 2012 5:24 pm

Allso curious to know if a body lift would need to be engineered ? That + a 2" lift + tyre's

(dont know if tyres would play a part) Im pretty sure up here (N.T) something like this would

need to be ? .

Has anyone done a DC body lift yet ?
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby wake jake on Sat Jul 28, 2012 5:49 pm

I know from reading on the newhilux there was one member who was going an engineer to get his body lift engineered on his new shape hilux. The engineered said it was possible to get the body lift approved with air but if my memory is right there was a fairly messy and long process and not sure if it even happened. I'll have a search for it. It would also depend on your state and engineer 8-)
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How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby mattz on Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:10 pm

I doubt any engineer would give a certificate for anything that has side airbags.
Other than that I don't know. :roll:
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Re: How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby Sky Miner on Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:20 pm

mattz wrote:I doubt any engineer would give a certificate for anything that has side airbags.
Other than that I don't know. :roll:


Why would that be mattz.....i have no idear how all this works either. :)
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How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby mattz on Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:42 pm

It would be the same reason you can't get sliders specifically for the MN with airbags.
You will be changing the height and the sensor height that trigger the airbags.......so if your in a side impact collision your airbags might not go off and the engineer who gave the certificate would be in a little bit of trouble.
It's something to do with how the regulations are worded......its also the same reason it's getting harder to get bigger tyres engineered. ;)
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How to Body Lift an MN/ML

Postby Mooons on Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:43 pm

It may have something to do with proving that the side air bags will still work the way they were designed to
Which may involve destroying vehicles ( very expensive )
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