4wd26 2008 ML auto- now with 4.6 gears and rear disc brakes

[4wd26]

fitted up a hella reverse LED light, 3 way switchable.
bent up a bracket out of alloy and attached to the ARB rear bar.
fits nicely, and dosn't hit the tail gate when dropped down.

Also fitted a led light strip to the top of the rear canopy window, hooked into the ARB existing light so that the canopy light and led strip are controlled by the ARB light switch- ARB globe replaced with LED as well- sheds nice light out onto the tailgate and beyond due to the angle of the glass

[stefanos]

Nice work!!!

[4wd26]

Broke a ARB lift up side window a few months ago.
when you purchase a new on they give you all the bits, so I thought I would have a play





and the final result I was looking for


the fit was pretty good, but when I originally placed the MK1 maxtrax against the window I was sure there was room for the canopy window locks- or maybe I overlooked that part.

anyway, while the maxtrax are on I cannot open the window
but if left unlocked the window can be opened from the inside

I have future plans for some "quick fists" http://www.quickfistclamps.com/ mounted on the inside of the window to hold an axe, fire extinguisher, HID torch

[4wd26]

Nice one 26, it makes a good use of that space. Are the mounts holding the maxtrax their own mounts
What thickness is the aluminum

genuine mounts from maxtrax
http://www.maxtrax.com.au/mtxmps
cheaper than I could make them for, but be aware that they recommend only horizontal (flat on roof rack) applications

I used 1.6mm alloy- was a guess, it is lighter than the glass, so could be thicker I guess, it does flex a little around the handles when locked down, causing a small bow out against the rubber in the middle bottom. But it is probably more me making sure the handles are super tight and are not going to vibrate open than being a dust problem.

cannot go too much thicker or with the checker plate it will be thicker than the glass and not fit into the ARB channel for the top track- or you would have to grind out the propeller rises

[4wd26]

Tyre whore strikes again
Cannot help myself- these have been such a good all round tyre

will have some prado +30 steel rims and used MTR's to sell

[Cowboy Dave]

Size and cost? Been wondering about mine. A few shallow scrapes on the sidewalls but lots of tread. I guess they'll last a bit longer yet.

[ag9111]

Look like 17's

[4wd26]

same as last time 265/70/17

They make a nice every day tyre, and I would get near 100,000kms out of the set I have been running (got approx 20,000kms left)

rims are 17x 7.5 +30 offset steel GX prado 120 rims

Price I was quoted last month $600 each, but these were from ebay with the rims for a bit less than that

[Cowboy Dave]

Same size I have. $600 each? yowser. Where do you live again?

[hcr83]

Nice to hear it's all finished mate. Now get that winch installed to drop the front back down

Installed the winch over the weekend

rotated the housing on the gear end so that the winch could be fitted with the feet facing the front- required on a ARB Triton bull bar.

The winch came with rope- and also a fairlead. But the ARB bar requires a "offset fairlead" so a quick call to Boycee @ 4wdsupplies secured me a fairlead that fitted at a great price

fitting the winch wasn't so bad- well better than I thought- just getting the wires for the winch and control box in place with no fouling as well as keeping the other wires out of the way.

Will probably fit a isolator under the bonnet in the future- but the entire install is kind of stealth


control for the winch has been strapped to the solioniod end of the winch- bracket was made to fit on the curved surface
held in place with safety wire and a couple of zip ties- cannot go anywhere and the remote can attach through the access hole


other access hole allows me to turn the free spool lever- a little awkward and a bit more triming of the original bumper would have been better- but happy to leave it alone


how it finished up


looking down onto the winch- I'm pushing with a fair amount of weight on the bumper to show the winch- the bumper usually fits flush with the bar

Test run the winch and it fires up and works as it is susposed to.

only one remaining concern and that is the rear of the winch has 2 bars that hold it together- the top bar sits very close to my intercooler- will have to keep an eye on this.

4wd26 - my computer wont show up the photos on this post
comes up with a little box saying cannot view picture....

could I bother you to email them to me - hcr83@bigpond.com

Thanks mate!

Also I take it by reading this thread that you fitted your front air locker?? That correct??

[4wd26]

I will need to transfer all my pics from my server (which has crashed) into photobucket- which I cannot do at work

I had the front "4wdsupplies" locker professionally installed by Jonlin Autos in Brisbane

[hcr83]

Thanks mate!

Ok no probs

[4wd26]

have finally got around to fixing up my wiring at the rear of the triton

initially just had a "hot wire" run from the main battery to the rear of the triton to provide power to a Anderson plug for the caravan.

I bought a redarc 1225 battery charger which can also act as a solar regulator

plan is to use the "hot wire" rerouted to the tub to the redarc, this will act as a battery isolator and also deliver power to a battery box containing 150ah battery in the tub

from the battery box, power will be distributed to a 60lt fridge, a ARB compressor, a hot wire to a caravan and some misc charge points, usb, cigarette, merit.

Longer term will enclose the side of the tray/ wheel well area, and fit a air tank compressor and battery box

first stage- reroute the hotwire from main battery into the tub and into the redarc.


come in behind the rear tail light


openings at both top and bottom, but cable needs to be protected as the edges are sharp.



cable run complete

now to mount the redarc and work out the best way to connect all the wires, keeping in mind that I also want to use a unregulated solar panel when at camp


so a systems like this, wiring the redarc is tonight's job

[4wd26]

I was searching lcool like all the cool dogs

and spotted an ad for some lights, sounded interesting so paid for them and got them delivered.

Hella 4000 Luminator LED

So then I got to work wiring them up, I already had the previous lights wired so pretty easy. But I wanted a neat install, so borrowed some "proper" tools for the job.

I have now purchased the crimper and pulling tool so if anyone is interested I can help out 8) they are very good connectors and are now available from narva or the friendly fitter at the mine, they are reusable, just buy new pins which are very cheap......
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/deutsch-connectors




Using deutche connectors


Some small LEDs come on with the Parkers

One done, looks like I may have to upgrade the light output of the headlights and fogs, or match the light colour

Finished
Went to replace a blown Parker and realised that I had those bulbs in the ARB canopy that I had replaced with led, looks like I'm without canopy lights until I can get some more

BUT looks better at the front


light output of the LED's is very even and good spread of light

I have 2 small Narva light bars turning up this afternoon, these will replace the parkers and indicators in the ARB bar, only 800 lumens each, will use these as DRL, should infill close objects very well and be good for night runs.

will maybe check out led headlight globes next month

[4wd26]

So the above was a week ago
Today I had a play with the narva light bar and ultimately what I'm trying to achieve


Narva lights come standard with the deutche plug in connectors, nicely the give both male and female ends- easy to remove pins and add new pins to the standard wireing for no splicing/ soldering connection


Except that I wanted to keep the factory fogs as well, still undecided whether to run these as daylight running lights or how I have them wired ATM on the fog light circuit, might add another connector to the Parkers so I can plug and unplug as desired


This is the look that I'm chasing, I have asked the friendly forum fibreglass expert to make a mould and create "new" inserts

My hope long term is to be able to replace the fogs with 5" hid, the mould should enable this

sort of like this?

[ag9111]

I have been trying to swap out those ind/parkers for DRL's as well but have been unable to find anything so far.
Looking good

[al coholic]

Right, so the resident tyre whore sold all his tyres and is now addicted to pretty lights

Light whore

[ag9111]

Which "Tyre Whore" are you refering

[viking shippy]

That led daytime light should slot in well....

[4wd26]

Well we hit a snag on the crown and pinion gear install


http://s363.photobucket.com/user/4wd26/media/triton/IMG_1693.mp4

video of the selector plates, high tensile bolts have sheared come loose. This ring shows/ indicates if the locker is engaged.

the dog teeth in the locker/ carrier look great, but they are more worried about the internal gear drives as they are cast.


bits and pieces see the grade 8 bolt heads


diff plug lots of metal, I'm thinking the last lot of driving- towing the van with all wheels locked and having problems probably made it all worse, as the locker was not always engaging (well the light would go out) BUT I needed all the traction I could get so would re engage the locker


all shiny- plenty of metal in the oil [/quote]


Will try out the 10 year driveline warranty, but I'm not holding my breath as it was a non Mitsubishi dealer that opened the diff- so they could claim not their problem, and Lee our savior in the North has left the Mitsubishi brand.

worth a call, otherwise I'll be hitting up tritonwreckers for a rear locking diff, see if that is cheaper than a ARB, they should look after me I hope.

bugger- just never know when you start on these things , mind you prob better now in a workshop than out on a track or crossing the simpson

Just cannot fathom how I can destroy things internal (have also twisted the main shaft in the front diff) when things like this are otherwise unheard of.

[al coholic]

Just cannot fathom how I can destroy things internal (have also twisted the main shaft in the front diff) when things like this are otherwise unheard of.

Do you think that's a result of running the 34's??

[4wd26]

Just cannot fathom how I can destroy things internal (have also twisted the main shaft in the front diff) when things like this are otherwise unheard of.

Do you think that's a result of running the 34's??

stop stating the obvious.

I don't think so, more possibly the fact that I have needed (engaged) the rear locker whilst towing many times.
Fraser, Geraldine, LCMP and the latest trip in the mud.

All these would put near max rear axle weight and heaps of stress on the axles and locker.

the front main shaft- yes I can attribute to the larger super aggressive simex tyres, the only other guy to do the same to his (Stefonos) had similar tyres (Silverstone) and neither had a front locker fitted at the time

[har05l]

If mitsi or tritonwreckers fail you Garth had a rear DL assembly for sale not long ago, not sure if he sold it

[4wd26]

Some slight modification still to be done before they are completely happy with the rear disc brakes but 99% complete at the rear and fitted up new handbrake cables and 4.6 gears and replacement locker





still some fun and games required at the front to install the gears

[har05l]

Is the diff out of the Challenger

Let's do my MN next