chick_magnet_0001 wrote:isn't the front loop just a tie down point not a recovery point so wouldn't using a bridle be unsafe, and wasn't the reason mark(the P7 trainer) said new cars should use a bridle strap is because they have a monocoque chassis and not a ladder frame chassis like our tritons.....
wilbo2 wrote:agreed, I have contacted chopper/P7 and enrolled in a class up in Teewah for next year, but on the interim this is my plan.
Try not to get bogged If I do, then instead of smashing the pedal, reverse back over the tracks in 4wd. If no luck try and dig push etc maybe chuck some cardboard under the wheels for traction (or is this a waste of time?) Then if no luck dig some more to make the snatch as easy as possible and use the tow hook (passenger side). Will run tyres at about 18 psi (they are stock bridgestone HTs I got with my GL-R). I know this is a forum for recovery points but cheers for the pointers on recovery techniques too.
wilbo2 wrote:oh yeh I forgot to ask, When driving on beach are you basically in 2wd unless on the soft sand up higher on the shore and obviously egress/degress??? only in 4wd when you need to be or all the time?
coxy47 wrote:wilbo2 wrote:agreed, I have contacted chopper/P7 and enrolled in a class up in Teewah for next year, but on the interim this is my plan.
Try not to get bogged If I do, then instead of smashing the pedal, reverse back over the tracks in 4wd. If no luck try and dig push etc maybe chuck some cardboard under the wheels for traction (or is this a waste of time?) Then if no luck dig some more to make the snatch as easy as possible and use the tow hook (passenger side). Will run tyres at about 18 psi (they are stock bridgestone HTs I got with my GL-R). I know this is a forum for recovery points but cheers for the pointers on recovery techniques too.
Id probably start with the tyres at around 24psi and drop to 18 if needed. Thats just my preference though. Reversing out is a good option, another method is to try and rock the vehicle back and forth slightly as this can help to get more sand underneath the wheels. Dont no about using cardboard as ive never tried it, a couple planks of wood do a good job. Ultimately though momentum is king in soft sand.fromwilbo2 wrote:oh yeh I forgot to ask, When driving on beach are you basically in 2wd unless on the soft sand up higher on the shore and obviously egress/degress??? only in 4wd when you need to be or all the time?
Once again this is a personal preference. I like to drive in 2wd on the hard sand when cruising up the beach as its pretty much as hard as a road. Then either 4hi 1st or second or 4lo second for really soft sand and entering or leaving the beach.
chick_magnet_0001 wrote:from personal experience 24psi with the stock size doesn't do a whole lot in sand, its not until 18psi and below things start to get happening and you really notice how little throttle and momentum you need to get through soft sand. at 10-12psi on stock size tyres your triton turns into an animal on the sand...in saying this you can go as low as 8psi but remember at these pressures, speeds must be kept low and turning especially has to be considered to not be done quickly or erratically.... this experience is based on both a single and dual cab triton.
al coholic wrote:You guys see any reason why i cant mount a "rated tow hook" to either side of the bullbar where it bolts to the chassis and run a bridal strap between the two for snatch recoveries??? The two bolts circled in red actually go through the chassis i think from memory......the lower ones are through a bracket which clamps "around" the chassis.
As i dont have those stupid wing pieces like the ARB bars......there is nothing in the way of attaching the snatch strap......unless the recovery vehicle was up hill about 45deg.......then the strap would rub on the underedge of the bar....
(Click for full size)
Something like this i think
helicoptercow wrote:Those without xrox bars, has anyone investigated Ben's idea any further? Still think it could be a good idea, especially in light of Tex's experience where his factory hook bent.al coholic wrote:You guys see any reason why i cant mount a "rated tow hook" to either side of the bullbar where it bolts to the chassis and run a bridal strap between the two for snatch recoveries??? The two bolts circled in red actually go through the chassis i think from memory......the lower ones are through a bracket which clamps "around" the chassis.
As i dont have those stupid wing pieces like the ARB bars......there is nothing in the way of attaching the snatch strap......unless the recovery vehicle was up hill about 45deg.......then the strap would rub on the underedge of the bar....
(Click for full size)
Something like this i think
Tex wrote:Geek, can you measure the distance from centre to centre of the holes......please
Homer wrote:I just got a couple from Opposite Lock. 35mm hole centres.
They were $25 for two which I thought was a bargain!
I met another Triton owner there who told me you can get them for nicks at any local tow bar joint as they pull a lot off different 4x4's when fitting bars....might be worth a look for those chasing a bargain...
g_mac wrote:Not sure if anyone's posted/read this - some interesting info:
http://www.arb.com.au/getting-started/a ... points.php
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