MN glxr towbar lift

[danm]

The towbar on my MN glx r is a pretty shit design I reckon and drags on the ground going through very minor dips, has anyone modified thiers to sit higher?
Obviously the rear step would have to go, then it would be a simple matter of drilling a new set of holes lower on the side plates, trimming the top off the plates and bolting it back on, could easily gain 100mm or even more.
Even simpler but a lot more expensive would be an aftermarket towbar that achieves this, is there such a bar?
One thing I would want to avoid is not being able to open the tailgate with the trailer on.

cheers Dan

[har05l]

I wouldn't really want to go cutting and shutting a tow bar to be honest, fairly important it retains all its strength as it was made.

I'd go the aftermarket route, at least they're built for both protection of the tub and towing

[psaunders]

Or alternatively you could see if someone has a GLX towbar laying around as I believe they sit higher up than the GLX-r towbar.

[danm]

I wouldn't really want to go cutting and shutting a tow bar to be honest, fairly important it retains all its strength as it was made.

I'd go the aftermarket route, at least they're built for both protection of the tub and towing

I would not really call it cutting and shutting as no structural changes would be made, just new holes and cut off excess, if anything it would be stronger as it would have less leverage on the mounting bolts

[SEJ GLX-R]

Mooons did it and I could be wrong but I think Greedy did it on his first Triton too.

Sorry I'm on my phone so too hard to get links

[kxboss]

I pissed mine off along with the oem rear step, well the step is in the garage roof if anyone wants one,
put on a TJM rear bar step, very happy with it, is well built and runs under the car a fair way act like a rock slider for the ass end,
you could try some load helper springs, Ironman make some for $125 they will lift the ass end a bit and o no damage to your pocket and are legal, they are great as well I ran them on my old challenger and will putthem on the MN soon.

[Jrosey]

I took the rear step off my MN GLX R and changed the tow bar to a ML one. Tucks up nicely and moved the hitch in about 150mm. Made for better towing, less leverage on the chassis as well.

[danm]

I am off in a weeks time towing the camper, nothing too demanding but this will be the maiden voyage for the triton so if it gives me too much grief I will have to get the tape measure out and do some serious mod planning

[Pete_79]

I took the rear step off my MN GLX R and changed the tow bar to a ML one. Tucks up nicely and moved the hitch in about 150mm. Made for better towing, less leverage on the chassis as well.

Have you got any pics of your ML tow bar under the MN tray?

I'm looking at options for my MN GLX-R at the moment.
There are lots of cheap used ML tow bars (non step type) popping up all the time, but bugger all used bars for the MN.

I'm thinking to do the same as you have but worried with the pivot point under the tray the draw bar could hit the body when taking on some decent tracks.

I have a low profile 360 degree coupling, so hitching under the tray is not a concern for me. I'd just like to see how far under the hitch point ends up.

As you can see I currently have no issues with articulation or departure angle.

[jmjLc]

have you also thought of taking off the towbar and turning it over we did that also and put on tjm rear bar protection camper hasnt bottomed out yet

[danm]

have you also thought of taking off the towbar and turning it over we did that also and put on tjm rear bar protection camper hasnt bottomed out yet

yeah the tongue is in the top position already, its not so much the camper bottoming , it is the underside of the bar and the tow ball nut.

[Lee-thal]

its illegal to modify the towbar in any way, especially holes etc,

your insurance company and the law wouldnt look kindly if something happened.

[danm]

its illegal to modify the towbar in any way, especially holes etc,

your insurance company and the law wouldnt look kindly if something happened.

You are probably correct, and I knew someone would say that, I am not going to get into a legal argument but I trust and would put my life on my own mods, drilling some new holes (where I plan to put them) wont be the cause of anything bad and I would like to see them prove it was.
But I do get your point and I know the pricks will look for any way out of paying that they can find so this is all hypothetical off course

[RHKTriton]

I've been thinking about raising the "plough" ever since I installed it.

Relocating the set of holes down about 40mm would make a huge difference.

If you want legitimacy then it shouldn't be a problem getting an auto engineer to certify it.

As long as the designed stress points on the mounting points aren't compromised there shouldn't be any issues.

I was originally amazed at how heavily built the bar was esp. when you consider how pissy the material looks in the chassis
area where it bolts on.