Bullbars

Bull bars, sliders, wheel carriers etc!

Re: Bullbars

Postby snakesoup on Sat Dec 05, 2015 3:37 pm

NowForThe5th wrote:
Kuff wrote: I am just hesitant about it as I worry about animal strikes with it and how much protection it would give


Is there a rating less than zero?


yes it's having no bar at all!!
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Re: Bullbars

Postby Zav78 on Sat Dec 05, 2015 5:52 pm

Kuff wrote:I don't mind the Sahara bar but I I just can't help but feel I'm getting ripped off when something has an ARB sticker on it :lol: . Does anyone know what the Sahara bar sells for roughly?


I think the sahara are around $2400 fitted in black and $2700 fitted colour coded. That is a round about price.
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Re: Bullbars

Postby Kuff on Sat Dec 05, 2015 7:36 pm

Zav78 wrote:
Kuff wrote:I don't mind the Sahara bar but I I just can't help but feel I'm getting ripped off when something has an ARB sticker on it :lol: . Does anyone know what the Sahara bar sells for roughly?


I think the sahara are around $2400 fitted in black and $2700 fitted colour coded. That is a round about price.


Thanks mate, definitely not going to crack the list then.
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Re: Bullbars

Postby kouta666 on Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:24 am

Zav78 wrote:
Kuff wrote:I don't mind the Sahara bar but I I just can't help but feel I'm getting ripped off when something has an ARB sticker on it :lol: . Does anyone know what the Sahara bar sells for roughly?


Not the Sahara bar but this is the quote I got from ARB for their Deluxe bar fitted to an ML. Click picture to see it all

Click to view larger picture
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Re: Bullbars

Postby Duck on Sun Dec 06, 2015 10:41 am

Where are you lcated Koutta ?
Life is what happens while you are busy making plans........
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Re: Bullbars

Postby kouta666 on Sun Dec 06, 2015 1:18 pm

Brisbane............Profile updated....thanks :D
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Re: Bullbars

Postby bodia on Sat Dec 19, 2015 7:05 am

Anyone know if the aluminium ECB from the ML will fit the MN?
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Re: Bullbars

Postby timwilli99 on Sun Dec 20, 2015 9:50 pm

helicoptercow wrote:An arb deluxe bar extends 255mm to the forward edge of the rubber moulds.

A better measurement, from the center of the bumper, 1 inch below the crease in the bumper where you cut, the arb extends 220mm ( in line with the rubber moulds again ;) )

A few years on, this is one of the only mentions of forwad projection that I can find. Like many others with an MN, I'm a bit tight in my garage with length, and a few mm makes all the difference. I've looked at the TJM T15 (no measurements to be found or known by TJM) which appears to have the closest mount depth, followed by the Powerful 4x4 offering at 180 odd mm. I had a chance to look at the TJM T13, which extends 270-280 from the top of the bumper just below the Mitsubishi logo! I was wondering if the ironman, OL and MCC deluxe styles have the same forward depth as the ARB? Anyone with these bars have a measurement by any chance? Cheers
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Re: Can't find it? Ask here FIRST, before you start a new th

Postby Bg604 on Thu Jan 21, 2016 6:17 pm

2015 mn bullbar
New triton owner after some advice, I had an ironman bullbar fitted three weeks ago, and it's not level with the car, lower on passenger side when parked on level ground. I contacted the company who fitted it and they said that this can happen because of the flex in the chassis of a duel cab ute. And not to worry about it, would appreciate any advice on if this is true? Thanks
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Re: Bullbars

Postby JeepChallenger on Mon Feb 15, 2016 7:10 am

Hi guys,

I got my PC Challenger fitted with MCC bullbar last week. I believe it is same for MN Triton. Paid 1550 fitted from Fastfit Bullbars Leichhardt. I measured the forward projection from the plastic bumper at 215mm. Attaching some pics for reference.

Mani

Click to view larger pictureClick to view larger picture
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Re: Bullbars

Postby Terror on Mon Mar 07, 2016 2:48 pm

Does anyone know much about MCC bullbars?
I can't find much info on them on here. JeepChallenger how is yours going?

Im not sure which way to go with bars and whats the best value for money. Im not an extreme 4x4er, just casual offroading plus beach driving.

MCC is $1350 for their classic plus bar
Arb Quoted $1750 for their deluxe winch bar
TJM Quoted $1907 for their T13 outback bar :o ( I thought TJM were a little cheaper than ARB??)

All prices are for supply only.

Now the ARB and MCC look almost identical to me so why would I pay $400 more for the ARB bar?

These are for an MN by the way

Guidance much appreciated :lol:

edit: just found this current deal from TJM for their outback bar for $1220? why did the shop quote so high? :?
http://www.tjm.com.au/easter16/?gclid=C ... sI7w_wcB#1
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Re: Bullbars

Postby deermaster on Mon Mar 07, 2016 3:38 pm

Terror wrote:Does anyone know much about MCC bullbars?
I can't find much info on them on here. JeepChallenger how is yours going?

Im not sure which way to go with bars and whats the best value for money. Im not an extreme 4x4er, just casual offroading plus beach driving.

MCC is $1350 for their classic plus bar
Arb Quoted $1750 for their deluxe winch bar
TJM Quoted $1907 for their T13 outback bar :o ( I thought TJM were a little cheaper than ARB??)

All prices are for supply only.

Now the ARB and MCC look almost identical to me so why would I pay $400 more for the ARB bar?

These are for an MN by the way

Guidance much appreciated :lol:

edit: just found this current deal from TJM for their outback bar for $1220? why did the shop quote so high? :?
http://www.tjm.com.au/easter16/?gclid=C ... sI7w_wcB#1


I have all TJM stuff on mine and its great. I have hit a fair few kangaroos and emus with mine plus a Toyota Kluger and did $6800 damage to the Kluger, my bull bar had a scratch and broke a spotlight. Pretty happy with that for strength in a prang.
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Re: Bullbars

Postby schilgsy on Mon Mar 07, 2016 4:11 pm

I haven't had experience with MCC but on my ML I bought an Ironman bar over ARB on price alone and regretted it from the first time I hit a kangaroo, the mounting system was terrible. Although it saved my car from expensive insurance claims and rising premiums, every time I hit something it would move in the elongated bolt holes causing it to twist. This resulted in broken flares and bent quarters and the annoyance of undoing all bolts and realigning the bar.

Although the cheaper bars do look the same take a really good look at the mounting systems. I am yet to hit anything with my ARB bar but looking at the mounts fills me with confidence it will be multiple times stronger than the Ironman.
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Re: Bullbars

Postby diver albie on Mon Mar 07, 2016 6:44 pm

not sure where you are but TJM here in WA quoted me @$1700 fitted and that my friend bets ARB and co by an easy $500+ :lol:

Really tempted to try and get one fitted before our Easter trip
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Re: Bullbars

Postby NowForThe5th on Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:32 pm

Terror wrote:Im not sure which way to go with bars and whats the best value for money.


A question every one of us has asked at some point or other.

MCC used to make the Ironman bars and although they're not as nicely finished as the big 3 they're not bad value.

I had one on the Triton and cleaned up a big roo at 100km/h+ with minimal damage. Destroyed a Mitsubishi Grandis as well.

schilgsy wrote:I haven't had experience with MCC but on my ML I bought an Ironman bar over ARB on price alone and regretted it from the first time I hit a kangaroo, the mounting system was terrible. Although it saved my car from expensive insurance claims and rising premiums, every time I hit something it would move in the elongated bolt holes causing it to twist. This resulted in broken flares and bent quarters and the annoyance of undoing all bolts and realigning the bar.


Not always clear in the instructions but you do need to drill two 8mm holes each side and fit 8mm bolts, once the bar is properly aligned with the slotted holes. Saves all that drama.

I don't know why but people always seem to forget the Opposite Lock option. As well made as the ARB and significantly cheaper and, apart from the fog lights they look almost the same.
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Re: Bullbars

Postby coughy on Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:44 pm

i have ol and love it
but the fitment isnt that good tho chris it wobbles on the bumps and the sides where the guards are not much room there at all for the flex
but cant cut flares any more or i wont have any clips at front to hold front of the flares on.. to the guard if you know what i mean
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Re: Bullbars

Postby NowForThe5th on Tue Mar 08, 2016 2:48 am

If you don't it to wobble or flex you'll have to buy a Pajero, Pete. No separate chassis = no problem. ;)

Cut the flares at least 10mm above the bullbar, preferably more. If that cuts out a clip then just run a bead of urethane on the inside of the flare to the guard. Will hold it there but you can cut through if need be.
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Re: Bullbars

Postby JeepChallenger on Tue Mar 08, 2016 4:16 am

Terror wrote:Does anyone know much about MCC bullbars?
I can't find much info on them on here. JeepChallenger how is yours going?

Im not sure which way to go with bars and whats the best value for money. Im not an extreme 4x4er, just casual offroading plus beach driving.

MCC is $1350 for their classic plus bar
Arb Quoted $1750 for their deluxe winch bar
TJM Quoted $1907 for their T13 outback bar :o ( I thought TJM were a little cheaper than ARB??)

All prices are for supply only.

Now the ARB and MCC look almost identical to me so why would I pay $400 more for the ARB bar?

These are for an MN by the way

Guidance much appreciated
edit: just found this current deal from TJM for their outback bar for $1220? why did the shop quote so high? :?
http://www.tjm.com.au/easter16/?gclid=C ... sI7w_wcB#1

Hi M8,

I got quoted by TJM 1800 + fitting and both TJM and ARB were very arrogant. The local dealer (Fastfit Automotive) for MCC at Leichhardt was very professional and courteous and he quoted 1550 fitted for the basic bar. Great service and called me a day before to confirm my booking.

The crumple zones on the ARB are much better but they didn't want to fit it to a Challenger.

Only have it for a month and no 4wding yet so can't say much about how it goes. But I am happy with the quality for the money I paid.
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Re: Bullbars

Postby coughy on Tue Mar 08, 2016 4:43 pm

hay chris where you talking for the 8mm holes and bolts??
picky help pls

oh and sikaflex work for holding the flare on u meen??
thats the only reason i havent done anything was wondering how the hell im going to hold the flare on there with out the clip....
i have a gap just not big enough and was worried when i take princess out 4x4ing it will rip it of
i would guess about 5-7mm gap at moment
so more u reckon for flex?? then sikalfex on the flare at bottom
as i have tubes of marine grade black sikaflex in shed at moment

oh and PPPPPFFFFFTTTTTT pajero :twisted:
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Re: Bullbars

Postby NowForThe5th on Tue Mar 08, 2016 5:31 pm

I can't believe I found a picture that shows those holes....but I did. In about 60 seconds. :shock: :lol: :lol:

Look at the brackets in this pic. You can see the slotted holes, which are mirrored in the brackets on the bar. That's obviously so that the bar can be moved around to align with the body. Now look more closely and you'll see two smaller holes, with shiny surfaces where they were drilled. Those holes are 8mm and take an M8 high tensile bolt. (M8 is a metric sized bolt that is 8mm in diameter, not necessarily your friend, although, in this case it could be :P :P )

The holes are drilled after the bar is positioned and once the bolts are inserted and tightened up, prevent it from moving in the slots. They also make re-alignment when re-fitting the bar, a breeze.

They don't have to be in any particular spot, location is largely dictated by where you can position a drill. Obviously, though, not too close to any other holes, slots or to an edge.

Click to view larger picture

This pic was taken after I hit a roo and the locating bolts really did their job of stopping the bar from moving. Instead, the force was taken by the bar itself which just bent a wing a bit.

I think that the idea of using M8 bolts is that in a really big collision they would eventually shear off, but would have absorbed a lot of the impact to do so.
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Re: Bullbars

Postby coughy on Tue Mar 08, 2016 8:58 pm

cheers m8 i wasnt sure where you were talking now i can see i will have a look up princess's skirt to see what is there

but you didnt answer me about flares??
sikaflex?? ok to use
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Re: Bullbars

Postby NowForThe5th on Wed Mar 09, 2016 12:35 am

Sikaflex? Which Sikaflex? I said urethane. Urethane is good on cars, silicone is not.

Just a little 3-4mm bead, 20mm long. Enough to stop the mould from flapping in the breeze; not too much to be unable to cut through when you need to. And only where you can't see it; never on the outside.
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Re: Bullbars

Postby ag9111 on Wed Mar 09, 2016 5:48 am

Which one Chris? there are so many on the market. And to confuse things even more a lot of the Sikaflex products are classified as polyurethanes. :roll:
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Re: Bullbars

Postby NowForThe5th on Wed Mar 09, 2016 6:53 am

Good point, Garth. The same one that I was making to Pete about Sikaflex. Like saying Selleys.

I've used the Parfix brand sealant/adhesive for years to hold exterior bits on cars. Works a treat, available at Bunnings and half the price of the Sikaflex equivalents (important when employees open a fresh tube, use a tiny bit and then leave it open). Comes in black, white and grey, too.

It's now branded as a polyurethane (used to be just urethane), but I've never noticed any difference in use or performance. We used to think that urethanes were a bit more flexible but, in terms of sealants/adhesives I don't think that is the case any more. Then there are acrylic urethanes which are supposedly better still and some of the new panel bonding urethanes are actually just as strong as welding, without the warpage. I've glued in patch panels on 4WDs that have then done major outback trips and never the slightest sign of any problem.

For what were talking about here, holding that little end of the wheel arch mould in place, then any urethane or polyurethane sealant/adhesive will do.
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Re: Bullbars

Postby ag9111 on Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:19 am

Here's one Bunning's prepared earlier. Don't recommend this one as its Black, Unless you have a black ute.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/parfix-310ml ... e_p1230065

I rate the Parfix stuff. I think its the same stuff as the more expensive brands just different packaging.

We use it to bond insulating panels into metal switchboards without using any conductive fixings. Never had an long term issue, even at elevated temps, around the 60 to 70 deg mark.
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