Vibration with MR triton 80KPH+

[Tritony]

Hi guys,

I've been having a vibration issue with my MR. I don't remember it having it since new but I only drove it in stock form for up to 2000kms.

I did upgrade the suspension to a 40mm fulcrum lift and put Maxxis Razr AT811s on the factory alloys. Since doing that I noticed a vibration that starts at 80kph and at 105kph gets so bad it shakes the bull bar.

Since then I have gone back to completely stock suspension, I have taken the bull bar off and even bought new high way terrains as Mitsubishi advised these were the things causing an issue.

I took it back to Mitsubishi after putting the vehicle back to stock and they're now telling me its a characteristic of the vehicle. I am not complaining about the shudder on take off, I can live with that it did it when I test drove the car. But it didn't have this vibration when I test drove it.

Is there any solutions, I have tried different tyres and taken it many times to be rebalanced. Mitsubishi are very unhelpful and I believe this vehicle has a inherent fault whether it be the torque converter or something unbalanced. I had both driveshafts tested by two different driveshaft shops and both were within 5 grams of balance which they said is way within specification.

Almost at the point of selling the vehicle at this point, I understand all cars have their faults but vibration has to be the most irritating one.

[shawty950]

Couple of things come to mind to troubleshoot.

Have you tried a completely different set of rims?
When fulcrum (or whoever installed) did the suspension lift did they put a tailshaft spacer or centre drop bracket on the tailshaft?
( reason I ask this as TJM did my initial lift and the muppets installing put the drop bush in upside down making the tailshaft shudder worse )
Are there pinion angle wedges on the leaf pack? (which may be too much/high that cause the shudder)
Lastly, do you have the dogs dangly diff balancer thingy bolted to the front of the diff protruding forward under the pinion towards the rear tailshaft and does it look normal and not been bent up/out of shape?

[WUNSIE]

I'd jump out on a limb here and say its a combination of a light weight vehicle, tail shaft angle, and hard suspension, and last but not least something has been altered/ deleted from OEM

[Gillion17]

I have a 2022 Triton MR GSR auto (standard spec), with only 4000kms on the clock. The vehicle recently started vibrating (vibration through the body/accelerator pedal, not steering), at about 90km/h and peaked at 100km/h and then disappeared at about 110km/h. Vibration is enough to make your right leg shake. Took it to dealership and they said it was due to flat spots on the tyres (from time sitting waiting for shipping etc). They tried to sort it by running tyres hot and then deflating them, and then re-inflating them and letting them cool while on its axles. The vibration is still present. Dealer are fobbing me off with "its just the nature of the vehicle"!! Meeting with Mitsubishi Area Rep (not dealer), to go out on test drive to get their opinion!! I am also at the point of selling vehicle as vibration makes any long journey totally unenjoyable. Test drive vehicle didn't do it.

[BlueTriton59]

A faulty tyre will cause vibrations. As will one that has thrown a wheel weight and is out of balance.

Ask them to do a test by swapping wheels with a different vehicle and doing a test drive. Not hard to do. This will prove whether the problem is a wheel or tyre, or the car itself. Either way it narrows down the issue.

[Tritony]

Couple of things come to mind to troubleshoot.

Have you tried a completely different set of rims?
When fulcrum (or whoever installed) did the suspension lift did they put a tailshaft spacer or centre drop bracket on the tailshaft?
( reason I ask this as TJM did my initial lift and the muppets installing put the drop bush in upside down making the tailshaft shudder worse )
Are there pinion angle wedges on the leaf pack? (which may be too much/high that cause the shudder)
Lastly, do you have the dogs dangly diff balancer thingy bolted to the front of the diff protruding forward under the pinion towards the rear tailshaft and does it look normal and not been bent up/out of shape?

I took it to a driveshaft shop, they removed the rear driveshaft and drove it on the front which proved the driveshaft is not the issue. Also the vehicle is back at stock height so I don't think the lift will effect it? It did have a Ironman centrebearing bracket but that has also been put back to stock.

Everything is stock now and it still does the vibration, mitsubishi is saying the highway vibration is a characteristic of the tritons and told me to put more weight in the back.
I don't think thats good enough because it should drive without vibration whether loaded or unloaded in my opinion.

[shawty950]

So the rear shaft out and it still vibrates, gets rid of rear shaft, the dogs dangly rear biff harmonic balancer, pinion wedges, centre bush. (So load etc wont be an issue)

The next things to try are
1. Front shaft out and drive again, if it still vibrates, then
2. Try all 4 different wheel/tyres from someone else's car

You've ruled out tyres (pretty much) by going back to HT's, only thing I can think of is out of round rims.

Only other thing after that I can think of that might be an issue are to look at front brake rotors.
Either out of round, or dirt/rust on the mating face where the rotor sits will cause the wheel to not run true.
Also check the mating surfaces on the rear drums as well to make sure no dirt/rust for same reason.

Dealerships are hit and miss and from my experience pot luck when it comes to troubleshooting...if you're in Brisbane and at hit a wall can always pop round and try a different set of rims from my car if you want.<shrug>

[Tritony]

So the rear shaft out and it still vibrates, gets rid of rear shaft, the dogs dangly rear biff harmonic balancer, pinion wedges, centre bush. (So load etc wont be an issue)

The next things to try are
1. Front shaft out and drive again, if it still vibrates, then
2. Try all 4 different wheel/tyres from someone else's car

You've ruled out tyres (pretty much) by going back to HT's, only thing I can think of is out of round rims.

Only other thing after that I can think of that might be an issue are to look at front brake rotors.
Either out of round, or dirt/rust on the mating face where the rotor sits will cause the wheel to not run true.
Also check the mating surfaces on the rear drums as well to make sure no dirt/rust for same reason.

Dealerships are hit and miss and from my experience pot luck when it comes to troubleshooting...if you're in Brisbane and at hit a wall can always pop round and try a different set of rims from my car if you want.<shrug>

Thanks Shawty appreciate the offer, I would take you up on the but unfortunately I live in W.A bit fair away

I have pulled out the front propshaft this morning (amazing how small the universal joints are, especially on the diff end) and still has the same vibration. I'm going to try track down some wheels near me.

[RHKTriton]

I'd start by lifting each wheel and giving them a spin to see if they are running true.

Next get a tyre joint to run the rims only on a balancer ( without tyre ). I had a crook rim once that needed an excess of weights.

It's sounding like something has been damaged when you got your original lift done.

Only a dickhead would suggest that any vehicle should have noticeable vibrations. Esp newish ones.