2016 mq auto vibration issues

[Kennym]

I'm after some feedback on other triton owners to see if they have had any drivetrain vibration issues? I'm having major issues and arguments with the dealers and them taking ownership of the fault that is quite obvious, I can't even drive over 95kmh at the moment the body and steering is shaking so much at 110, I've had the tyres and lift I had done professionally checked over twice and no mud evident to cause this even though at first they tried to blame the lift and tyres but prior to fitting these things I already had it back twice when it was stock with the same issues, it's definitely in the tailshaft area and Mitsubishi has agreed but say that won't do anything until public demand on the issue is high enough for them to recall. I think it's an absolute joke why do I pay for warranty and very disappointing as I love everything else about the ute. Any feedback would be good or ways to fix it. I've heard and been recommended to put a wedge in to change the angle of tailshaft after the two inch lift, interested to see if anyone has tried that. It's a constant shudder almost and some road surface it's worse than others, at 110 it's way to much to continue at that speed I can see the canopy and rear tub shaking as well as everything inside the car. I worry that over time this could be doing damage to centre bearings and gear box or diff let alone the constant vibration on every part of the car and motor over time. Cheers

[WUNSIE]

Get them to eliminate the wheels/ tyres you have on by putting your originals back on and get them to take it for a run, as for the lift kit unless you put it back to stock they wont have a bar of it, regardless of how professional the people were who installed it.
Go to another dealer as some are ignorant bastards who only like communicating ( sorry that should of read Bull shitting ) to those who aren't mechanically inclined, from what you've described it sounds like a severe misaligned drive shaft and its shaking itself to death,
Have you thought of taking it back to who ever installed the lift and get them to take it for a run, and offer a solution as they would be more mechanically inclined at solving issues than a dealer would, seeing how they deal first hand with what sounds like the issues you are having,

Cheers mate, WUNSIE

[Kennym]

Thanks mate, yeah they did say to bring it back to stock but what annoys me the most is I took it in twice with the vibration issues with it completely stock and they said it was wheel inlinement which the tried but made no difference, then they said it's because of the stiffer suspension in this model so I though bugger it why put up with it then I'll get a lift and tyres and see how that goes but it seems to have amplified the issue a bit. It's doesn't seem to matter what issue you have with the dealer they don't want to know about it, two pices of plastic from the interior rear door fell off and they tried to blame the roads I drive on, then they forgot the plastic strip on the tub for the canopy which had work down to a 50mm bare metal strip along the tub and they wanted to just put a clear stip bCk over what wil be rusty metal, had to fight for them to re paint it, then they got a young worker to wash it with what looks like steel wool!! Of course the said they haven't had that issue before! The list goes on. Your right about the place that did the lift I will go back to them and see if they can help! Makes you mad though I shouldn't have to that's why I pay for warranty!!

[RHKTriton]

It wouldn't be impossible that the tail shaft has had a hit in the movement from factory to dealership or that the suspension guys have dropped an end.

I'd jack it up and park the rear axle on stands and rotate the wheels (see that they run true) and then get someone to turn the wheels and observe the prop shaft for any obvious issues.

Ultimately, the shaft may need to come off and tested for balancing. The old man had a similar issue with one of his cars many years ago and it needed a new prop shaft - all fixed.

Having on many occasions seen how 'mechanics' and 'specialists' treat mechanical stuff, its amazing that some engines, etc keep working.

[jerrah]

Unlike previous 4wd's I've found my MQ can develop a highway vibration if I have sand or dirt on the inside of my rims. It shakes the whole car to the point I thought I'd thrown wheel weights.

Did it with both stock and aftermarket wheels/tyres but was easily resolved each time but really cleaning out the inside of the rim before hitting the highway. Amazing how dirt can sit in there. Once cleared it's super smooth at highway speeds.

I was talking to a mechanic the other day and he said he worked on a MQ previously with a highway shudder that was resolved by taking out the driveshaft and rotating it 180 degrees. I don't know if there is much chop in that.

[RHKTriton]

Prop shaft phasing is important for preventing vibration, however I would think 180° wouldn't have any impact, 90 would.

Another check would be to see that the uni at the front and back are in perfect alignment and haven't be welded on the tube offset by a few degrees.

[murwullambah]

Amazing how two of the same model can be so different, i was just thinks the other day how smooth mine was at 110 km/hr
Although im standard springs rear and small lift front, it still sits slightly high at the rear so not sure if i need lift at rear.
Do you still have the dogs dick mass damper on rear axle?

[jds303]

I thought I would add to this - I removed the mass damper from my MQ auto a few days ago - and haven't noticed any difference in the feel of the car. This is still on stock suspension, and no noticeable vibration at any cruising speed.

[TIS]

Was that just a matter of undoing the bolts and its done?

[Kennym]

Thanks for the comments and info,I'm running heavy duty springs in the front but left the rear as stock, have an arb bar, 9" spotties and lightbar up front and a winch to go on hence the heavy springs. Also have an arb canopy but yet to put on a rear step or towbar so it may make a difference with the extra weight when I do that but I still don't think it will be right but we'll see. Either way I shouldn't have to add anything to a new ute for it to be comfortable or even average to ride in because at the moment it's terrible. I'm looking at doing a pedders suspension and driveline test in the next week they said they'll run over the tyres, suspension and driveline both with manual tests and computer which will be good to see all the components that are making the vibrations and shudders. I'm also going to looking into a wedge dependent on whether the tail shaft angle is out of whack. At least by going to pedders they'll give me a piece of paper showing thier conclusion and the computer readings evidence of something being wrong and maybe it will give me a leg to stand on with the dealers, Not holding me breath though!! Also I'm running 265/75/16 tyres what pressures are you guys running? I'm at 38 all round as that what I've ran all my Utes without issues and I'm mostly doing highway driving daily now so I may drop that a bit.

[jds303]

Yep, undid 4 bolts (13mm socket iirc) and off it came. I put the bolts back in, but might put flat washers in under the spring washers to take up some thread as I didn't know how deep the bolt holes are drilled. I figured it was better to put the bolts back in, just in case the damper needs to go back on and the threads got filled up.