biggibbo wrote:Your a goose. More fuel = more power means more fuel consumed unless you are ramming more air in via the turbo. A generic fuel chip will not compensate and allow the volume of air required hence you will be wasting unburnt fuel. The EGR blank will also worsen instant economy as it again affecting the air to fuel mix the ECU is looking for and will stay there. Atleast over time the economy will remain static instead of deteriorating due to carbon build up. I would seriously look at ditching ur blank and going the resistor route.
Bobojo wrote:Just buy a 6k8 ohm resister from jaycar for 40 c
deermaster wrote:Amazing but I got the best fuel economy I have since I changed to bigger tires etc. I was towing my trailer with a quad on, but the catch was that I stayed under 100klms most of the time and tried to keep from over revving at any time. Like lots of the time I was only doing 95klcs an hour. Shit I have never driven that slow before but got close to tens and to me that's great. Just goes to show that driving slower and keeping the revs down actually works in giving you far greater fuel economy.
AnOldFart wrote:deermaster wrote:Amazing but I got the best fuel economy I have since I changed to bigger tires etc. I was towing my trailer with a quad on, but the catch was that I stayed under 100klms most of the time and tried to keep from over revving at any time. Like lots of the time I was only doing 95klcs an hour. Shit I have never driven that slow before but got close to tens and to me that's great. Just goes to show that driving slower and keeping the revs down actually works in giving you far greater fuel economy.
Your right on target "deermaster"... That's because the 'amount' of air "Drag" experienced by a moving vehicle varies proportionaly, to the "square" of it's road speed / velocity. The result of this simple fact is a 23% increase in air drag experienced between travelling at 90Kms and 100 Kms despite only an 11% speed gain.... The simplest way to 'feel' this effect as I'm sure you would already know, is to try riding a bycycle behind the shelter of a tall wall or building first, ie, with no wind 'blowing' and then turn around a corner and ride instead, head on into an oncoming wind. There is a rapidly noticeable increased 'air drag' because we are now moving at a -relative- faster speed / velocity, in relation to the "still air" in the first test. The Drag Coefficient of a blunt nosed object is also greater than that of a smooth / sharp nosed object, that's why spire-point boat-tails, travel faster and further than wadcutters for the same amount of propellant charge, and I'm sure you'd agree that our old Tritons look far more 'ballistically' like a wadcutter than a 'spitzer' ...
snowman wrote:ok maybe i should say the MY09 autos?
not sure if there are any differences in the auto boxes between the super and easy select...?
also the engine mapping may have been changed in the later models to cause issues at lower RPM as the bigger tyres seem to overly accentuate the bad mileage. let's be honest there are heaps of you running bigger tyres with the diesel and still getting what i consider good economy- it has to be something!!!!
RHKTriton wrote:The biggest killer with 4x4s is air drag. Ski bars on a typical car can cost up to a litre/100km, so just imagine all the metalwork poking out along the underside of your unit.
Then there is tyre width. Tyres that are one or two cm wider add a fair patch front on.
We could reduce drag if we could keep the air flow from getting under the floor.
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